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HomeMy WebLinkAboutNorth Slope Regional Energy Use & Resource Assessment Study 1980Second printing with revisions, May 1981 North Slope Regional Energy Use and Resource Assessment Study April 1980 Prepared for The North Slope Borough, Barrow, Alaska under Contract 23112 03979 The Honorable Eben Hopson, Mayor PROPERTY OF: €3Battelle Alaska Power Authority Pacific Northwest Laboratories 334 W. 5th Ave. Anchorage, Alaska 99501 NORTH SLOPE REGIONAL ENERGY USE AND RESOURCE ASSESSEMENT STUDY G. A. Jensen R. G. Moles April 1980 Second Printing May 1981 with Revisions Prepared for the North Slope Borough, Barrow Alaska under Contract 23112 03979 The Honorable Jacob Adams, Mayor Battelle Pacific Northwest Laboratories Richland, Washington 99352 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The authors wish to acknowledge the contributions of the following people who provided information for our use in this effort during interviews and dis- cussions in the villages, Barrow and elsewhere. Kent Grinage, Andy Crain, Dave Gerten, Sue James, Harry Kaleak, Walt Audi, Lorn Ahlers, John Armstrong, Roberta Armstrong, Joe Kaleak, Herman Aishanna, Georgeanna Tiklik, Philip Tiklik, Bill Tegoseak, Thomas Napageak, Steve Hobson, Clyde Sielak, Bob Lenz, Doris Fellows, Philip Misuliak, Chet Hardwood, Winaford Ahvakana, Waldo Bodfish, Wier Nagovanna, Daniel Okomailuk, Alva Nashoalook, Richard Kagak, Trevor Wilkinson, Amos Morrey, Harry Hugo, Roosevelt Parieak, Chick Kishbaugh, Ron Dolecheck, Ray Pafieak, Mike Mornahan, Beth Pafieak, Joe Mekaina. iii CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ; : , . : 7 ; 2 : . . iii FIGURES. , : : ; : : : : : ; ; ; vii TABLES . ; , i : 5 : : . ; , , ix INTRODUCTION i ; : ; ; , : si : 2 5 1 CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS ; : i ; ; ; 5 3 CONCLUSIONS . i c : c c : ; ; ; ; 3 BOROUGH INSTITUTED CONSERVATION MEASURES 3 , : . : 5 ENERGY CONSERVATION OR RESOURCE DEVELOPMENT PROJECTS . . ; 5 Conservation . . . 3 : : > . c 5 6 Mid-Term Projects . - a 3 * . < A _ 6 STUDY METHODOLOGY AND ORGANIZATION . 8 OBJECTIVES ei 2 : ; , , 0 : : i 3 8 INFORMATION SOURCES . , z a : ‘ 9 PROGRAM ACTIVITIES . . ; , ; 3 ; : ; ; 10 STUDY RESULTS . . 5 c : 5 : , r , , . 12 ENERGY RESOURCES AND USE . : . : : 5 i ; i 12 Fossil Fuels. c . : 5 c ‘ 7 fs c 12 FUEL CELLS . ; 3 c 3 5 3 ; : ; ; 25 Renewab les ; : : ; : 0 : e 2 25 VILLAGE RESOURCE SITE CHARACTERIZATION AND ENERGY NEED EVALUATION . . . ° . . . c . ° 5 34 Barrow ‘ . ° 5 c C c q E c 3 49 Kaktovik . ; - ; ; ; ; ; ; ; 52 Nuigsut . . . . ° : r . ; a ° 54 CONSE ENERGY STRATEGY MASTER PLAN AND INITIAL PROJECTS REFERENCES BIBLIOGRAP APPENDIX A - NORTH SLOPE BOROUGH ENERGY CONSERVATION POLICY . APPENDIX B APPENDIX C APPENDIX D APPENDIX E APPENDIX F APPENDIX G Point Lay . Point Hope Wainwright G RVATION . Energy Audits Benefit/Cost Analysis Benefit Cost Analysis for Housing Retrofits Investigation of Other Northern Housing Construction Experience 5 . . Power Generation and Heat Recovery . Borough Master Plan . Emerging Energy Technologies and Prospects HY - EVALUATION ENERGY SOURCES IN BOROUGH VILLAGES . - SOLAR ENERGY EVALUATION METHODS . . - COST ESTIMATES FOR CONSERVATION MEASURES IN EXISTING HOUSING - RETROFIT MEASURES FOR EXISTING HOUSES - HOUSE PLANS . - CONSERVATION MEASURES IN BOROUGH HOUSING AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS . vi 55 57 58 61 64 69 a, 77 77 80 80 80 Ref-1 Bib-1 A-1 B-1 C-1 D-1 E-1 F-1 G-1 10. ll. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. FIGURES Study Methodology Fuel Equivalents a Location of Coal Reserves in the North Slope Borough Location of Petroleum Provinces in the North Slope Borough Natural Gas Provinces in the North Slope Borough Horizontal-Axis Wind Machine . . . Vertical-Axis Wind Machine : . : The Effect of Annual Change Rate and Dispatching Estimated Average Home Fuel 011 Consumption in the North Slope Borough . . a Estimated Average Home Fuel 0i1 Consumption in Anaktuvuk Pass Estimated Average Home Fuel 011 Consumption in Atkasook Estimated Average Home Fuel 011 Consumption in Barrow Estimated Average Home Fuel 011 Consumption in Kaktovik Estimated Average Home Fuel 011 Consumption Nuigsut Estimated Average Fuel 0i1 Consumption in Point Lay Estimated Average Fuel 011 Consumption in Point Hope Estimated Average Fuel 01] Consumption for Wainwright Coal Deposits Near Wainwright 7 Annual Heating Degree Days for the North Slope Borough and Other Locations . . : ° . ‘ Comparative Costs for Comfort Heating for the North oie Borough and Other Locations 7 . A : Heat Probe Used to Make Thermal Measurements . Existing Wall Design vii Ld 15 18 22 24 27 28 30 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 60 62 63 65 68 23. 24. 25. 26. Option III -- Installation of a New Vapor Barrier Existing Exterior Wall to Reduce Air Infiltration Fi ; . Option IV-A -- Increase the Wall and Ceiling Thermal Resistance and Reduce Air Infiltration . 7 . 7 : : . : Option IV-B -- Replace Existing Wall Insulation with 3 Inch Sprayed Urethane Foam and 1 Inch Urethane Foam on the Ceiling and Reduce Air Infiltration . s 5 5 3 F . Energy Strategy and Planning . : . 7 A viii 73 74 75 81 10. ES 12. 13. 14. TABLES Definition of Terms . ‘ ‘ 5 . . “ Estimated Fossil Fuel Reserves in the North Slope Borough Fuel Cost Comparison 3 e 6 , : 5 . . Ultimate and Proximate Analysis of Selected North Slope Borough Coals . : . a , Cost of Coal to Barrow or Coastal North Slope Communities Borough Fuel 0i1 Costs Average Wind Speed (mph) at 10 meters (32.8 ft) for North Slope Borough Locations . C ; ; 3 c Energy Reaching the Earth's Surface at Five Alaskan Locations-- Btu-day/ft2 ; Estimate of Energy from Biological Materials Basis: Total Borough Population . . 0 5 . ° Borough Heat Transfer Measurement Btu/hour/square foot . Estimated Fuel Cost . Comparison of Estimated Average Heating Cost for Borough Residences . : : c Heat Loss by Building Component as a Percent of Total Heat Supplied ' : Cost Benefit of Retrofit Options for Housing . ix 13 14 16 19 20 23 29 31 33 66 67 67 69 70 NORTH SLOPE REGIONAL ENERGY USE AND RESOURCE ASSESSMENT STUDY INTRODUCTION In September 1979, the North Slope Borough authorized and funded a energy use and resource assessment study for their region under Battelle, Pacific Northwest Laboratories contract number 2311203979 using North Slope Borough Purchase Order No. 11086. The scope of this effort was to characterize locally available energy resources and the factors that may affect the use of that energy, and to identify conservation methods that will reduce energy con- sumption. During the course of the study, consideration was also given to: ¢ local standards of living « environmental considerations e community input regarding energy use. The information presented in this report addresses all of the requirements of the statement of work and should assist the Borough in developing a long-range and comprehensive energy strategy and plan. Although Alaska's North Slope is a repository for major supplies of U.S. energy resources, it is also a region where the indigenous population is energy poor. The energy resources of this region if properly developed and used could provide for employment and significantly improve the quality of life of the resident population. To do this the North Slope Borough needs a plan that con- siders both the local Arctic needs and the local benefit that can be derived from the development of these resources. Village electricity and heating requirements are now met by diesel elec- tric generators and oi] heaters. Exceptions are Barrow, where a smal? natural gas supply has been developed by the U.S. government, and Prudhoe Bay, where oil companies have been able to supply some of the fuel needed locally and to overcome local environmental constraints with large amounts of funding. In all other areas, imported oi] is used to fuel furnaces or stoves and diesel elec- tric power systems at a cost ranging from $1.00 to over $2.70 per gallon. 1 The North Slope Borough @) recognizes that locally available energy resources need to be developed for local consumption, both to increase local labor use and to provide income for the resident population. (Their policy statement 80-1E to meet this need is found in Appendix A.) Native employment is essentially seasonal, and unemployment is frequently high. Pipeline and oil developers in the Arctic have met their labor demands primarily by importing labor rather than by using local native people. In addition, living costs are accelerating at least as rapidly as they are in the rest of the United States, and subsistence living is endangered by more stringent state and federal regulations. The following sections cover the various aspects of the work in the approximate order provided by the contract statement of work. The conclusions and recommendations are presented in the first section. The study methodology is discussed briefly, including the objectives and guidelines, information sources accessed and project activities. The discussion of the study results is organized according to the various tasks outlined in the scope of work. The first of these sections "Energy Resources and Use", identifies, locates and characterizes accessible fossil fuel resources and reviews the state of the art for using emerging energy technologies such as wind and solar. The next sec- tion is a composite of the results from two tasks concerned with local commu- nity energy needs and site characterizations by village location. This organi- zation was chosen to reduce redundancy and to present in a orderly and useful manner the material obtained in tasks to characterize and assess local community energy needs. Energy audits of existing housing and conservation needs are also discussed, including the means for reducing residential fuel requirements. Included is a brief review of the need for heat recovery in electrical power generating equip- ment. The methodology used in the benefit cost analysis is discussed and the results of the benefit-cost analysis are presented here since the impact of this analyses was greatest in the conservation area. A methodology for arriving at a Borough energy plan is also presented. (a) discussions with Kent Grinage of North Slope Borough Utilities Board and Planning Commission, Barrow, Alaska, September, 1979. CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS In arriving at these conclusions and recommendations consideration was given to energy conservation measures, local standards of living, environmental effects, and factors that affect energy use in the Borough. The major conclu- sions and recommendations resulting from this effort are described below. Pro- jects which could implement these recommendations for the short-(1980-1983), mid-(1983-1990), and long term (1990-2000) are also presented. CONCLUSTONS Fuel oi] will continue to be used in the Borough as a primary energy source through the near and mid-term future. The public accepts oi] as a village fuel because it is easy to use, clean, environmentally acceptable and reliable, if available. Costs (currently $1.00-$2.70 gallon) for oi] will continue to increase rapidly over the next two decades and efforts to use alternative local fuels, reduce consump- tion and conserve energy should be encouraged. The current cost for oi] delivered in the Borough ranges from $9.12/ million Btu to $16.00/million Btu. Coal can probably be mined at Atkasook or Wainwright for between $1.40/million Btu and $7.44/mil- lion Btu ($29.40 to $218/ton). Although the $1.40/million Btu for coal seems low, the range is probably representative of the cost of coal delivered to villages. Thus, a large savings in fuel cost could result if local coal were used, in addition to providing badly needed job opportunities at the local level. Because there is a large dis- crepancy in mining cost estimates, a careful evaluation of mining methods, cost factors and reclamation methods must be made on a site by site basis. Coal is the major fossil fuel which will be locally available in the long term. Thus, planning for the development of this resource should be instituted in the near future to ensure that the coal can replace oil (or gas in Barrow) when these fuels become too expensive or reserves are depleted. If the Borough is to achieve energy independence in the long term, it must use the coal reserves and develop non-renewables as supplements (wind or solar). Borough energy use can be reduced significantly by increasing insula- tion required for homes and public buildings. Although newly built housing is designed to have R-19 in the walls, R-25 in the ceilings and R-28 in the floors, experience in Canada and other Arctic loca- tions has shown that minimum insulation requirements should be R-30 in walls, R-40 in floors and R-50 in ceilings. Air infiltration must also be reduced. Careful design of exterior walls, extensive use of caulking and careful vapor-barrier installation, to prevent breaks in the vapor barrier or exterior envelope, should reduce energy losses from air infiltration. The greatest near-term fuel saving can come from reducing air infiltration and other forms of heat loss from buildings and by updating construction and insulating standards for new buildings. For example, all electric wiring outlets, switches and other items should be surface mounted rather than enclosed within exterior walis. Detailed information for improving energy conserva- tion in structures are found in later sections of the report or in references. Wind energy is the primary renewable energy resource found in the North Slope Borough. Although this resource can only be considered as a supplementary energy source, it can make a significant contribu- tion to the Borough's energy mix by 1985, if wind generators are properly installed. Since a kWh generated by wind will replace an equal quantity of fossil fuel energy, the use of wind energy should be considered as a means to reduce the existing dependence on oil and in Barrow natural gas. When and if appropriate energy storage is developed, the Borough could perhaps consider wind as a primary energy source. Today's wind machines are first generation units and therefore, addi- tional demonstration of the technology is required before large-scale Borough installations are contemplated. Several manufacturers are producing wind generators which may be suitable for Borough use, and > plans for working with these manufacturers to adapt existing machin- ery to Arctic needs should be investigated. In particular, the requirements for designing, installing, maintaining, and operating wind turbines in the Arctic need to be evaluated. e Solar energy can also be used as a supplementary energy source but until adequate energy storage systems are developed its use will be limited to domestic heating. BOROUGH _INSTITUTED CONSERVATION MEASURES Conservation measures now implemented by the Borough include: an operat- ing public transportation system; waste heat recovery systems for recovering waste heat from diesel electric power generators installed and operated in some villages and used for space heating, water treatment and other purposes. Con- servation measures reported to be in planning stages include: linking the Naval Arctic Research Laboratory (NARL) and the Barrow gas and electric systems by an intertie; recovery of waste heat from the Barrow power plant gas turbines for space heating and other purposes; and installing waste heat recovery systems in village power plants currently under construction or planned. Waste heat from village power plants will be used to heat village schools, public buildings water treatment plants and other purposes. ENERGY CONSERVATION OR RESOURCE DEVELOPMENT PROJECTS Specific energy~conservation and resource development projects that could be initiated in addition to those planned or in place to meet Borough needs now until 1983 are outlined below for each of the indigenous useable energy resources available to the Borough (coal, natural gas, wind and solar energy). Coal Continue the development of coal as an energy source for Atkasook. Natural Gas At the present time this resource is controlled by the U.S. Government near Barrow and in villages in the National Petroleum Reserve Alaska (NPRA). Until the Borough is vested with the managment of this resource near villages no specific projects can be anticipated. Wind Power Generation A project to evaluate vertical-axis wind turbines should be initiated. Funding for such a project could be based on a cooperative agreement between the Borough, a selected manufacturer and possibly the U.S. Department of Energy or other government agency. As indicated earlier, this type of effort is required to identify and correct design, maintenance and operating problems for using wind turbines in the Arctic before a large capital outlay is made. Conservation A project to retrofit several homes using principles outlined earlier should be initiated. Installation of caulking, weatherstripping, storm windows, new wooden insulated doors and thresholds (Retrofit Options I and II described later) is highly recommended. Borough financing will be required for installing vapor barriers and new insulation in exterior walls and ceilings, etc. (Retrofit Options III and IV) since the magnitude and cost of these options will be larger than the homeowner can probably handle. Where housing is under construction or planned the insulation, vapor barrier and other exterior wall design specifications should be upgraded to meet Arctic needs. The principles outiined in later sections should guide the Borough in revising these specifications. The Borough should also continue installing heat recovery systems where fossil fuels (oi1, coal, or natural gas) are now used to fuel electrical power generating systems. Mid-Term Projects The coal resource near Wainwright and Point Lay should be developed for these villages. The effort under way at Atkasook could be a model for these efforts. Field reconnaisance studies should be initiated to identify and establish coal resources that could be used in other villages and begin planning for their use. In general, coal should be further developed as the primary fossil fuel for Borough use. Although coal gasification or liquefaction are now advanced technology and expensive, by 1990 they may be demonstrated and could be evaluated for Borough use. Wind and solar energy, two supplementary sources of energy, should also be developed. STUDY METHODOLOGY AND ORGANIZATION The methodology, objectives and milestones for this study were developed during proposal preparation and contract negotiations with North Slope Borough staff members. The project methodology, organization and limitations for the effort is discussed in the following subdivisions. The first subdivision will identify objectives and guidelines, the second, information sources and the third project methodology and supporting factors. OBJECTIVES The project that was formally accepted by the North Slope Borough in early September 1979, had these objectives: Identify local energy resources available to the North Slope Borough and the factors affecting their use Evaluate energy resources other than fossil for their technical merit for Borough application Assess local energy needs, economic factors affecting their use, preferences, and environmental factors Characterize each village site by type, quality, quantity and proxi- mity of energy resource; how the resource can be transported and stored and other factors that would affect local use Examine and analyze benefit-cost factors for using various energy sources and conservation measures Complete an initial energy audit of residential housing, commercial buildings and government buildings. In addition to the above objectives, the following information was identified by Borough personnel as useful in meeting the above objectives and the Borough's needs. Major consideration should be given to evaluating housing or build- ings owned by the Borough for energy conservation or retrofit measures. e Conservation is very important and measures which can provide imme- diate impact are desirable as are methodologies for implementation. e Evaluation of the maintenance, operation and training needs and their effect on energy use efficiency is desirable. « The difference between an energy source and an energy technology needs explanation. e Consideration should be given to evaluating the use of electricity in furnace operation or home heating and to how this dependency can be reduced or eliminated. INFORMATION SOURCES Background information on each village was provided by Borough Personnel and is found in Regional Profiles published by the University of Alaska. (1) Several studies have also been prepared that deal with energy alternatives available for Barrow. (2232495) Gruy's, Beck's and Bottage's reports discussed only energy resources for Barrow. Rutherford (®) and his associates considered power generating needs for five villages, not including Point Lay and Atkasook. Copies of these reports were supplied by Borough personnel, along with several U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) and Bureau of Mines studies which evaluated com- mercial possibilities of coal mining near Wainwright. Additional information was obtained from the Alaskan Geological and Geophysical Surveys, the Arctic Slope Regional Corporation, Alaskan-based oi] companies and the Alaskan State Library in Juneau. In addition, Canadian and other northern related data and literature resources were reviewed for pertinent housing and conservation information. Available data on the quality of the fossil fuel resources is sparse. Oi] company data for the Prudhoe Bay area is generally proprietary and production figures were not available for use in this study but Mr. Robert crosky(@) reports that oi] supplies at the small refinery at Prudhoe Bay are sufficient to supply the Borough's needs now and in the future. Quality (a) Telephone discussion: Robert Crosky, Atlantic Richfield Co. Anchorage, Alaska, January 30, 1980. ‘oO control measures were not reported and should be identified prior to extensive use of oi] from this source. A listing of informants, references and a com- plete bibliography is provided. PROGRAM ACTIVITIES The project plan methodology for the study is shown in Figure 1. The plan was used to inform the sponsor how Battelle personnel expected to approach the work. The plan was also used at Battelle to control and direct the work. Some further explanation of Figure 1 may be helpful since the activities result from certain assumptions and decisions made about acquiring information for the study. In performing the community input tasks, researchers traveled to five of the seven villages in the Borough and visited with and interviewed residents, utility department personnel and village officials. Such input is essential to evaluating present-, near- and long-term energy needs and in identifying the resident's perceptions of conservation and what energy forms they perceived as acceptable. Some additional comments on the energy characterization and site charac- terization tasks regarding the use of energy sources such as wind and solar (and others) may be helpful. Complete information on the technology necessary to use the resource is not yet available. Research and development sponsored by the U.S. Department of Energy and other at Battelle-Northwest and elsewhere are developing the needed information. Once the information is available options need be considered based on their technical merit for Arctic applica- tion. Integrating available information on these alternative sources into the total Borough energy spectrum was considered in developing the final report. Additional sources of information were sought in Canada, Norway and Denmark, where work is under way to improve the energy efficiency of residential housing and commercial buildings and to use solar wind and other emerging energy tech- nologies in the Arctic. Although these investigations are not shown in the methodology in our proposal, they have been added to Figure 1 for completeness. 10 Il METHODOLOGY CHARACTERIZE ENERGY USE AND RESOURCES — LOCAL COMMUNITY INPUT REGIONAL ENERGY RESOURCE EVALUATIO! COST/BENEFIT ‘ SITE CHARACTERIZATION rotate COMMUNITY OR INPUT ON LOCAL ENERGY NEEDS [sia ! ENERGY CONSERVATION EVALUATION ENERGY CONSERVATION DRAFT FINAL REPORT | REV IEW/COMMENTS FINAL REPORT PRELIMINARY [oP] RECOMMENDATIONS P= COST/BENEFIT FOR RETROFIT BRIEF FOREIGN EXPERIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY EVALUATION FIGURE 1. Study Methodology STUDY RESULTS Major headings in this section reflect those in the project work state- ment. Several subtasks in statement of work are covered in the sections deal- ing with village resources and site evaluations and conservation. This was done to reduce redundancy and to improve the readability of the report. The section village resource and site evaluation covers the work completed in Sub- task 1.2, Local Community Energy Needs, and Subtask 1.3, Site Characterization. The section on conservation covers the work completed in Task 2, Benefit-Cost and Subtask 1.4, Energy Conservation. The subsection on power generation and heat recovery is included under the latter major subheading because the recovery of heat waste is a conservation measure. ENERGY RESOURCES AND USE Energy resources existing in the North Slope Borough include fossil fuels, such as petroleum, 01] shale, coal and natural gas; and renewables such as wind, solar, geothermal and biological materials. Energy resources are diffe- rent from energy technologies. Energy technologies require a fuel or driving force to produce power or heat. Energy resources are fuels, the forces such as wind or heat that are the driving force. Fuels are used in the Borough primarily space heating, power generation and secondarily for transportation. Each energy resource available to the Borough will be discussed in the sections that follow. General discussions will be followed by an in-depth dis- cussion of energy resources available to each village site. The village's perceptions concerning the energy form and its possible use in the village will be emphasized. The availability of energy resources and environmental factors affecting extraction of the resources for village use will be estimated. Definitions of energy related terms used in the study are found in Table 1. Fossil Fuels Coal, oi] and natural gas exist in the North Slope Borough, Table 2, but these resources are largely undeveloped. The exception is developed gas resources near Barrow and Prudhoe Bay. The technology for coal and gas extraction and its 12 British Thermal Unit - Btu) Heating Degree Day - Heat Transfer - Therm - Air Infiltration - Conservation - R Value - MCF - TABLE 1. Definition of Terms A British thermal unit is the amount of heat required to raise one pound of water one degree fahrenheit (°F). One Btu approximates the heat given off by burning one wooden kitchen match. A heating degree day is a means of measuring the amount of heat (fuel) needed to maintain the temperature in a building at 65 degrees fahrenheit (OF). The difference between the average daily (outdoor) Fahrenheit temperature and 65°F (indoor temperature) is the number of heating degree days for that day. For instance, if the temperature all day on a given day is 30°F, the difference between 65°F and 30°F = 35. Therefore, the heating degree days is 35 heating degree days. Heat transfer is the amount of heat that is conducted by a material (wood, steel, glass, etc.) from one side of the material to the other side. Heat transfer is expressed as Btu/hour/l-square foot. Therm is a measure of the amount of energy contained in natural gas or other fuel. Natural gas billings to the consumers are expressed in terms consumed over a given period of time, usually on a monthly basis. 1000 cubic feet of natural gas contain one therm of energy or 1 million Btu's of heat. During the coldest months of the year, a resident of Barrow would use approximately one therm each day for home comfort heating. Air infilteration is the movement of cold outdoor air into the heated interior of a building through cracks around doors, windows, wall, roofs and floors. Conservation is the practice of conserving what is presently available by using less and by making it last longer. The insulating value of an insulation is commonly expressed as R and is a measure of the thermal resistance of a material, i.e., the higher the value of R the lower the heat loss. R has the units ft¢ hr OF/Btu. Million cubic feet 13 TABLE 2. Estimated Fossil Fuel Resery¢s in the North Slope Borough Fossil Fuel Proven Reserves Coal 117 billion tons 0i1 9.4 billion barrels Natural Gas 27 trillion ft? use in Barrow has been evaluated, (2934435) as has its extraction for export and sale, (859-10,11) These reports provide excellent background information and data. Each of the cited references addresses the energy needs of Barrow, its environmental setting, present problems, fuel costs and energy issues as they relate to the needs of the Barrow community. They also all provide some planning information relative to Barrow energy need through the year 2000. For the purposes of this report, material covered by these reports will be cited and used where applicable to address requirements for future planning. Estimated costs for fossil fuels are compared in Table 3, which shows the wide range of estimates and real fuel costs found in the Borough. All costs are shown as cost of fuel per million Btu for comparison purposes. Figure 2 illustrates the relative value of each fuel. In this illustration, 1000 #3 of natural gas is equal to 1 million Btu. Storage costs for each fuel were not included. Based on these data, coal is rapidly becoming less costly than oil for village use. Assuming coal could be mined locally near many villages, it has the advantages that it could have a lower future cost and provide emp loy- ment opportunities for village residents. The effect on the environment of coal use from mining operations and future use will have to be established. Unless village population changes drastically by the year 2000 the environmental effect will probably be minimal because local coals have low ash and sulfur contents and the problems of land rehabilitation can be handled, (12) (2,3,4,5) and the future of this resource appears uncertain, based on our discussions with USGS personnel in Natural gas use is limited to Barrow, 14 COAL - 1-TON — ef edt eS BARRELS (3.1) 1- MILLION BTU = THERM = 1000 FT. ? OF NATURAL GAS FIGURE 2. Fuel Equivalents NATURAL GAS - 21.1 THERMS TABLE 3. Fuel Cost Comparison (Barrow) (1924354) Cost per million Btu-$ Low Mid High Comments coat?) 2.68 9.44 15.83 Available in the long term at only modest cost increase oi) 7.35 11.22 14.56 Rising rapidly Natural Gas 0.324 1.50 4.67 (3) Questionable long term supply; figure (5.53) in parenthases is cost to develop new reserves (1) 0i1 costs - based on Tables 9 to 11, Reference 3. (2) Coal costs - based on Tables 11 to 16, Reference 3. (3) Natural gas (does not include cost for development of additional reserves), Table 16, Reference 4. (4) Cost to Barrow resident and power plant (information supplied by telephone: Kent Grinage, North Slope, February 1, 1980). Seattle, Washington and Anchorage, Alaska. (425) Exploration is continuing however, south and east of Barrow. The low cost of natural gas relative to the other fuels, reflects the governmental regulations governing its recovery and sale. Both natural gas and oil are valuable as starting materials for a large variety of products. Natural gas and petroleum are used to manufacture of nitro- gen fertilizers, methanol, hydrogen and other organic chemicals. Thus, as the supply of these materials begins to diminish, they may become too valuable to burn and can represent a significant source of revenue for Borough residents. (a) Robert Lanz, U.S. Geological Survey, Seattle, Washington, January 30, 1980. (b) John Haugh, U.S. Geological survey, Anchorage, Alaska, February 5, 1980. 16 Coal Coal reserves underlie much of the North Slope area (Figure 3). Small mining operations have existed in the region since the late 1800s for local resident and shipboard use, (13.14) Many beds are exposed at various locations such as Corwin Bluff-Cape Beaufort, Kukpowruk, Kokolik-Utukok, Kuk-Kugrua, Mead-Ikpikpuk and Colville Rivers, (9210,11,13,14,15,16,17) Analysis of several of these coals has been completed (see Table 4.). The mining of those coal beds could provide valuable employment opportunities for the local population as well as developing a local fuel source. The information sources for the data in Table 4 were used by others (232455) | to evaluate coal as a fuel resource for Barrow. Cost estimates based on these data for mining Wainright coal for use in Barrow are summarized in Table 5. Similar coals underlie the villages of Atkasook and the proposed location of Point Lay. Coal outcrops have also been located within 36 miles of Nuiqsut and Point Hope, and coal deposits are indicated 50 miles north of Anaktuvuk Pass. (13) The overburden is estimated to be between 0 and 150 feet, (13) (10) Because of existing Alaskan mining and environmental restrictions, consideration must be given to obtaining appropriate permits, and land rehabilitation must be provided for if the resource is used, (10,11,17) and the coals are considered strippable. Also, because much of the coal lies in the National Petroleum Reserve in Alaska (NPRA), federal regulations must be addressed if the resource is to be used as a village or Borough fuel source. At the present time there is no active mining of coal in the North Slope Borough. Coal is, however, collected by several residents in Wainwright when storms deposit it on the beach, and it is burned as an alternative fuel. Wain- right users reported the coal to be clean burning, easy to store and nearly ash free. Those people interviewed considered it an acceptable fuel for domestic use. Several previously lived in Barrow and used coal there also. Costs for mining coal in Wainwright for use in Barrow have been esti- mated, (29354) These estimates vary widely (see Table 4), but a detailed reevaluation was not possible within the project scope and funds available. A preliminary reevaluation of the costs developed by Gruy was completed for 17 SI POINT HOPE A BARROW —— COAL PROVINCE OR BASIN CONTAINING KNOWN DEPOSITS ——-NAVAL PETROLEUM RESERVE NO. 4 BOUNDARY WAINWRIGHT “4 : aa KAKTOVIK NUIQSUT® y ; ANAKTUVUK PASS FIGURE 3. Location of Coal Reserves in the North Slope Borough 61 TABLE 4. Ultimate and Proximate Analysis of Selected North Slope Borough Coals Volatile Fixed Moisture Matter Carbon Ash Value Location Basis % % % % Btu/1b C% H% H% 0% S% Mead River 2 -- 36.9-39.1 55.3-58.7 4.4- 12070- 70-73 4.6 1.6 15-17 0.5 5.6 12695 4.7 0.7 Cape Beau- 1 6.7-25.1 29-48.6 30.5-65.9 Sell 8310- 42.9 3.0 ele © 1026 0.1 fort 16.6 12750 81.1 5.7 Sect 2.39.1 0.5 Kukpowruk 2 2.9-8.3 32.0.39.3 50.0-58.7 3.6 8543 1353 5.0 ell oe a3 0.2 River 7.0 13227 78.6 5.8 els4 215-8 0.4 Kokot ik iL 12.1, 28.5-38.9 58.0-58.2 2.3 12730 63.6 5.3 meso m9 0:3 River 13.3. 13750 23.8 5.7 1.8 24.5 0.5 Kuk 2 18-25 29.1-44.0 41.9-59.0 2.0 9230 54.6 4.5 0.9 17.0 0.2 4.4 13100 75)05 6.6 1.6 35.4 0.5 Basis: (1) Moisture free (2) As received 02 TABLE 5. Cost of Coal to Barrow or Coastal North Slope Communities Transportation Transportation Mine Size Mining Cost Cost (to Wainwright) Cost (to Barrow) $/MM Btu $/MM Btu Report 1000T/year $/Short Ton $/Short Ton $/Short Ton Wainwright Barrow Bottage 49 12.71-23.74 11.56-13.15 39 .46-40.00 1.66-1.74 3.02 Bottage 143 9.84-16.23 10.20-11.77 40.00 1.25-1.33 2.68 Gruy 28 .6-42.9 134 Included in 64.14 (barge) 6.38 9.44 mining cost 93.88 (truck) = 10.85 Battelle 5 142 2-3 40.00 6.90 8.67 supplying Wainwright with coal, and the results are shown in Table 5. This reevaluation suggests that the Gruy estimates are probably high if the mining operation were a locally operated industry. The coal mine proposed to supply Alkasook with coal for residential use will be discussed later. Petroleum Although there are large, well-known crude petroleum reserves at Prudhoe Bay, in the Beaufort Sea and at other locations in the Borough (Figure 4) the direct use of crude oil as a fuel is not possible. In addition, because the price of crude oi] is rising rapidly and is in demand outside of the area, its sale is a valuable source of income for the Borough. Assessments were there- fore limited to identifying sources of refined petroleum products in Alaska and the "Lower 48". Many of these same sources were evaluated by others (39425) for Barrow only. Previously reported costs and suggested methods for supplying Barrow with oil from the “Lower 48" were reexamined and we considered them reasonably accu- rate at that time. Late 1979 and early 1980 costs for securing fuels for use in the Borough are compared with March 1981 costs in Table 6. Storage costs are not included. To further assess these alternative oil sources and to further identify price changes at the refinery, the Prudhoe Bay topping plant and the North Pole refinery near Fairbanks were contacted concerning the availability and cost of oil for North Slope use. Sufficient capacity exists at these locations to meet Borough needs. The 1980 prices quoted for oi] at each location are: Prudhoe Bay'®) $0.90/gallon North Pole Refinery?) 0.655/gallon for No. 1 diesel $0.694/gallon for No. 2 diesel Onsite storage capacity and transportation to the villages would have to be provided by the Borough. The costs for this storage capacity were estimated (a) Telephone discussion: Robert Crosky, Atlantic Richfield Co., Anchorage, Alaska, January 30, 1980 (b) Telephone discussion: Chuck McConnel, North Pole Refinery, Fairbanks, Alaska, January 30, 1980 21 WAINWRIGHT 22 POINT HOPE FIGURE 4. BARROW ANAKTUVUK PASS Location of Petroleum Provinces —— OIL AND GAS PROVINCE OR BASIN - OCCURRENCE OF OIL AND GAS RATED HIGH @ OIL WELLS 4 DRILLING SUSPENDED ~--NAVAL PETROLEUM RESERVE NO. 4 BOUNDARY fc PPscagq~— EXTENSIVE DRILLING eK AKTOVIK in the North Slope Borough TABLE 6. Borough fuel Oil Costs(a) 0i1 $/gal_ $/million Btu. 0i1 $/gal_ — $/million Btu (1979) (1979) (1981) (1981) Barrow(C) 1.65 12.13 1.94 14.26 Anaktuvuk (a) 2.00 14.17 1.90 13.46 Atkasook( 4) 1.94 14.26 2.69 19.77 Kaktovik(b) 1.24 9.12 1.57 11.55 Nuigsut 1.98 14.56 1.99 14.63 Point Lay(a) 1.00 7.35 - = Point Hope 1.65 12.13 2.15 15.81 Wainwright 1.57 11.54 2.06 15.14 (a) Landed Costs (b) Village Corporation Cost (c) Natural Gas Cost $1.50/MCF = $1.50/million Btu (d) Telephone discussion: Kent Grinage,-The North Slope Borough, Barrow, Alaska, February 1, 1980. by cruy!3) of storage costs at Fairbanks as well. Transport from Prudhoe Bay could be accomplished by barge in late summer or land transport in the winter. Trans- port from Fairbanks would have to be by air, by land via Anchorage and by barge to the Borough, or, if suitable arrangements could be to made, by using the haul road to Prudhoe Bay for storage, then transporting the oil to the villages by barge or land transport. for storage at Prudhoe Bay. These costs are probably representative Mr. Bob Lanz of the USGS reports that development of an oilfield near Barrow in NRPA seems remote in the near- to mid-term future. Exploration act- ivities are to continue in the NPRA as mandated by Congress (Public Law 94-258). These activities will follow guidelines set forth for in the Final Environmen- tal Impact Statement (FEIS) for continuing evaluation of Naval Petroleum Reserve No. 4. The FEIS was submitted to the President's Council on Environ- mental Quality on May 27, 1977. Natural Gas Natural gas reserves on the North Slope (Figure 5) are estimated to exceed 26 trillion £t3(7) Most of reserves are unproven except for those near Prudhoe Bay and south of Barrow. The Barrow field is the only source of natural gas being used by a Borough community at the present time, (39455) Recoverable reserves in the South and East Barrow gas fields are estimated at 13 23 ve POINT! HOPE WAINWRIGHT, FIGURE 5. BARROW ANAKTUVUK PASS Natural Gas Provinces in —— OIL AND GAS PROVINCE OR BASIN - OCCURRENCE OF OIL AND GAS RATED HIGH © TEST WELLS - DRY AND ABANDONED o TEST WELLS = GAS WELLS ~~~ NAVAL PETROLEUM RESERVE NO. 4 BOUNDARY <— EXTENSIVE DRILLING KAKTOVIK the North Slope Borough AE -- billion ft, (a) Estimates are that this reserve will be depleted by 1995 unless exploration now in progress produces additional wells. Bob Lanz reports that exploration is continuing to the south and east of the Barrow gas fields, and Thomas Kelley ) reports that exploration is con- tinuing northwest of Anaktuvuk Pass and at other locations in the Borough. Until more exploration is completed, the use of natural gas as an energy source for Borough use will be limited to Barrow. Cost for natural gas is shown in Table 3. Natural gas may prove to be very valuable. The sale of natural gas could represent a source of income for the Arctic Slope Regional Corporation and for the Borough and its residents. FUEL CELLS Fuel cells were investigated for use as power generators. In concept fuel cells are more energy efficient than conventional power plants. Fuel cells are silent, quick starting, do not harm the environment and can use any of the fos- sil fuels available in the Borough. When perfected fuel cells could have low maintenance requirements and a 60% or greater fuel efficiency throughout their operating range. Many of these characteristics could compensate for their high capital cost during introduction into the marketplace. However, they have not reached the stage of development where they are reliable or competitive with more conventional power generators. (18219) Major problems remain in the areas of stability, i.e., electrical and electrochemical interactions associ- ated with electrodes, catalysts and materials. Until these problems are solved fuel cells cannot be considered for remote village applications such as exist in the Borough. Fuel cell technology should be evaluated periodically but care should be exercised in the widespread use of fuel cells for primary power gen- eration in the Borough to replace diesel-electric or gas-turbine generators. Renewables Energy resources in this category include wind, (13+20,21,22,23,24,25,26) solar (27 »28 29,30) and biological materials. (34) Because the use of wind (a) Telephone discussion: Bob Lanz, USGS, January 24, 1980. (b) Telephone discussion: Thomas B. Kelly, Consultant, January 28, 1980. nm or and solar energy are site dependent, they will be discussed in more detail in later sections dealing with village resources. Only major factors affecting these resources are discussed here in very general terms. There is one source of geothermal energy in the region, but because of its remoteness from possible users, it will not be considered further. It is located 70 to 100 miles south of Kaktovik in the Brooks Mountain Range. Wind Many types of wind energy collectors have been devised. However, of wind machines devised, only the horizontal axis rotors (head-on) and vertical-axis rotors have gained wide acceptance. They are differentiated in terms of the orientation of the axis to the windstream. e with the horizontal-axis rotors (head-on) the axis of rotation is parallel to the direction of the windstream; this is typical of conventional windmills, Figure 6. e With the vertical-axis rotors the axis of rotation is perpendicular to both the surface of the earth and the windstream, Figure 7. Both horizontal- and vertical-axis wind machines are available. Care should be exercised in the choice of wind machines and evaluation of results relative to operation and maintenance requirements. In general, the vertical- axis wind machines have a major advantage over the horizontal-axis machines for Arctic use because they do not have to be turned into the wind as the direc- tion of the windstream varies. Horizontal-axis machines have to be designed to handle stresses associated with pitch and yaw. These forces can destroy wind turbines if the wind suddenly shifts. The result is that the vertical-axis wind turbine design is simple and operation and maintenance are easier to handle. They have the principal disadvantage that they are not self starting. The latter is no problem since wind generators would normally be operated as a backup to an alternate power-producing system for instance, a diesel electric or central coal power plant, and power for starting the turbine would therefore be available. 26 FIGURE 6. Horizontal-Axis Wind Machine Normally wind turbines are designed for optimal operation at average wind speeds of 11 to 13 mph or higher. (2) Because the cost of windpower increases as the windspeed decreases below optimum design, it is difficult to predict accurately the cost of power at a given Borough site. Current estimates indi- cate that power cost for wind energy in the "Lower 48" will be between $0.03 and $0.05 per kWh (Figure 8). The costs for wind-generated power should be between $0.08 and $0.15 per kWh in the Borough using a 15-mph, optimally designed generator and a linear power cost dependence (3!) | In locations where average wind speeds drop below 8 mph, wind is not usually a viable option because optimal designs are not possible and costs of construction and operation rise rapidly. Several village sites in the Borough have a wind power resource (a) Discussions with Emil Kadlec, Sandia Laboratories, Albuquerque, New Mexico, December 5, 1980. 27 FIGURE 7. Vertical-Axis Wind Machine based upon available data (Table 7). Several others may be borderline based on “Lower 48" standards but because of the high cost of fuel oil, wind, may be an energy alternative. 28 TABLE 7. Average Wind Speed (mph) at 10 meters (32.8 ft) for North Slope Borough Locations Winter Sprin Summer Fall Annual Barrow 11.0 4 11.4 12.5 11.6 Anak tuvuk 8.6 Siar Deo 6-4; 8.2 Kaktovik 15.9 13.9 12.8 15 a7 14.5 Point Lay 14.7 14.1 11.4 14.3 > 13.6 Cape Lisborn 14.1 12.8 11.0 15.7 13.4 Umi at 7.8 dee 7.8 6.9 7.4 Wainwright LV6 11.4 10.7 14.5 11.4 It is important to note in Figure 8, that the economics favor machines which have generating capacities greater than about a 35-kilowatt capacity. Major advantages of the Darrieus (a vertical axis) machine are that it is a highspeed, high-efficiency machine with a low capital cost and low maintenance requirement. Its major disadvantage is that it is not a self starting machine, therefore, has to be started by a backup system. All wind machines available for use today are first-generation models. Although they have been tested at a variety of locations, their performance and operational characteristics for Arctic use need further evaluation and demon- stration to identify and eliminate operating and maintenance problems. Unfor- tunately, experience using wind generators in the Arctic has been disasterous largely because of inadequate study of the resource and poorly planned evalua- tions. Thus, if the Borough is to consider developing this energy alternative it must have a knowledgeable project team to make sure that the wind generators are used properly, and that people are trained in their operation and use. In addition, careful attention must be given to siting for maximum performance and minimum cost. Solar Energy Although not normally considered for Arctic application, solar energy is an option which could be considered for certain Borough applications. Esti- mates of the amounts of solar energy reaching the earth at several Alaskan locations are found in Table 8. Although most of the solar energy would be 29 ALCOA ESTIMATE ¢ 100 MW/yr PRODUCTION RATE 14 ¢ 15 mph MEDIAN WINDSPEED © 90% MACHINE AVAILABILITY © 2.0 O&M LEVELIZATION FACTOR 12 —— |NCLUDING DISPATCHING COST -—-—- NOT INCLUDING DISPATCHING COST — Oo ANNUAL CHARGE RATE 25% co 6 20% TOTAL SYSTEM ENERGY COST, ¢/kW-h 0 50 100 150 200 ROTOR DIAMETER, ft FIGURE 8. The Effect of Annual Change Rate and Dispatching 30 ke TABLE 8. Energy Reaching the Earth's Surface at Five Alaskan Locat ions--Btu-day/ft2 dan Feb Mar Apr May dun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Barrow, Alaska--Latitude: 71°20N; Elevation: 22 ft 1353 143.2 713.3 1491.5 1883 2055.3 1602.2 953.5 428.4 152.4 22.9 -- Bethel, Alaska--Latitude: 60°47N; Elevation 125 ft 142.4 404.8 1052.4 1662.3 1711.8 1698.1 1401.8 938.7 755 430.6 164.9 83 Fairbanks, Alaska--Latitude: 64°49N; Elevation 436 ft 66 283.4 860.5 1481.2 1806.2 1970.8 1702.9 1247.6 699.6 323.6 104.1 203. Matanuska, Alaska--Latitude: 61°30N; Elevation: 180 ft 119.2 34.5 -- 1327.6 1628.4 1727.6 1526.9 1169 737.3 373.8 142.8 56.43 SOURCE: Liu and Jordan, 1977, in ASHRAE, GRP170, Applications of Solar Energy for Heating and Cooling of Buildings available from March 21 through September 21, appropriately applied, this energy could significantly reduce the fuel consumption in many Alaskan communities with a corresponding savings to their residents, (28»29,30) There is a large amount of information on the use of solar energy appl ica- tion for regions south of the 50 North latitude. (27) Many of these applications work very well and have attracted the attention of the Canadian Government (32 +33) and Alaskans. For example, homeowners in Anchorage and Fairbanks are install- ing successful solar systems. Solar energy could be used in the Borough for: e domestic hot water heating e active solar space heating--requires appropriate solar collectors and that an appropriate fluid be pumped from the collector through a heating system in the building; and for e passive space heating--where the building design functions as a collector without auxiliary pumping or additional energy input. Photovoltaic cells and other high technology developments are not wel] enough developed or tested for Arctic use in the time periods covered by this report. In particular, available photovoltaics are only 12-15% efficient and maxiumum solar-electric conversion efficiencies are not expected to exceed 25%, (34) Thus, these devices will be used for specialty applications. Large scale heliostat collection systems for Arctic use will be very complex because of the need to follow the sun. Thus, they are considered impractical for Arctic use by the authors. Solar energy data are only available only for Barrow. Personnel at the University of Alaska have evaluated solar potential for heating in Barrow and other Alaskan communities, (30) Thus, although this resource could be con- sidered in the long term for village use, means are not now available to evalu- ate the potential for solar energy use in each village. Development of solar energy use would perhaps be something that the Borough would undertake on a long-term and carefully managed basis. Because the concept of using solar energy is new to the Arctic a detailed plan for the possible development of this option is needed. Such a plan is beyond the scope of this report. 32 Biological Materials Biological materials include human waste, wood, etc. that can be dried and burned or processed in some fashion to produce a fuel. These materials were only considered briefly. Biological materials are not a viable fuel option for Borough communities under present conditions because they are not available in sufficient quantity to justify the cost of converting them to a useful energy form. Estimates of the maximum production of energy from waste generation are shown in Table 9. TABLE 9. Estimate of Energy from Biological Materials Basis: Total Borough Population Total Dry Heat Content Tons/yr million/yr % Barrow Requirement Sewage 982(a) 5.5 0.5 Trash 5880(b,c) 61,857 5.83 Wood Negligible Negligible Negligible (a) 3.1 ft3 methane produged/at sewage @95°F (b) 5260 Btu/1b of trash(3 (c) 0.73 1b of trash produced/person/year (35) (Source: Reference 35 and personal communication with Amber Wong, Battelle, January 23, 1980). Sewage. The anaerobic digestion of sewage sludge will produce a gas which contains methane. Methane production is, however, small and only sufficient to partially offset the fuel requirements necessary for sustaining the opera- tion of the sewage treatment process. Thus, it cannot be considered as a viable option as an alternative energy source. Wood. The North Slope borough is entirely north of the Arctic treeline, therefore, this resource is not available. Only limited quantities of drift- wood are avilable, and these would not sustain continued use. 33 Other Wastes. Wood products, such as boxes, cartons, paper, etc., and garbage can be burned to produce heat. (35) The estimated quantities of these materials available for the Borough is also small (Table 9). We estimate that trash could supply only 2.4% of the fuel needed and the fuel source because costs for its collection and use are excessive under present economic conditions. (35) VILLAGE RESOURCE SITE CHARACTERIZATION AND ENERGY NEED EVALUATION The general aspects of alternative energy sources available to the Borough were discussed in the earlier sections. In the sections which follow, fossil fuel and renewable energies available to each village will be identified and evaluated on a village-by-village basis. Each discussion will consider local community energy needs, expectations, site characteristics, environmental fac- tors and economic factors affecting the use of the resource. The introduction of new energy technology, such as wind, will be discussed briefly. Included will be the additional evaluations needed to ensure that installation, mainte- nance, and operation of the new technology produce optimum results. An esti- mate of average fuel use for residential heating in the Borough is found in Figure 9 and for housing in each village are found in Figures 10-17. Unfortunately there are no flow totalyzers or flowmeters monitoring oi] consumption by the village's diesel-electric generating equipment. Because of this, it was not possible to determine fuel oil use for power generation or equipment-operating efficiency. In addition, accurate information for total village oil consumption was not available to the study team. Therefore, we were unable to completely evaluate this aspect of energy use. However, we do not believe that this is a significant drawback to the conclusions reached during this study because we were able to estimate fuel oil use in Borough housing and electrical power generating capacities and fuel consumption estimates for the village's generating equipment were available. () 34 z S = 2 — =< mw 5= of 4 O o= 8 Zo of = ge =e aio) a lu co eco =a xa or Lud Sf IO Gz z= LEE MQ GC Q0owoY da WN i+w WN SA PIO LOE GGG GS SSG NGG JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR o o on N 10 o s HINOW/I99 ‘NOI LdWNSNOD 35 MONTHS FIGURE 9. Estimated Average Home Fuel 0i1 Consum in the North Slope Borough ption ESTIMATED ANNUAL FUEL CONSUMPTION - 1694 GALLONS /HOME 1980 COST - 2.00/GALLON MAAN KS. JG|JAAAAAAAAS SS, 6 Q U°t°>?n.m mr rntvn Mop SSIS SS. GGSSAA.AAAA AAA SAAS SEX EEEEEE|¥&E{AAQA&A: NWVW ESTIMATED COST - $3388.00 /HOME 4.0 ESEEEEEAAAA WM SII SSS SSS SSSsss SSSss SSS o So So os Nn 4 HINOW/I9G “NOI ld WNSNOO 36 = a JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FE MONTHS FIGURE 10. Estimated Average Home Fuel Oil Cons in Anaktuvuk Pass umpt ion ESTIMATED ANNUAL FUEL CONSUMPTION - 1865 GALLONS /HOME 1980 COST - $1.94/GALLON > ee SSE an RS. J AAAELLENAN SSS SS SESS SAAS SSSI SST S WII WWW — Wry 3 SS SEE SSW J ESTIMATED COST - $3618.00 /HOME a N a 4.0 HINOW/IGG ‘NOI ld WNSNOD 37 MONTHS FIGURE 11. Estimated Average Home Fuel 0i1 Consum in Atkasook ption SWY3HL ‘LNIIWAINOT SVD TWYNLYN N za So co y Ss an Ss N N = XG. GG... ’>woy GG ,.,,,°> 19d AAA BS... go wm iikdAQAA nn KG, Evi ° LALLA A. GJ HHH7r]T GGG, HH XS, Q AAAAAAAAAAAY MHDS MHA XXX WVWF"u A 'SF"r7"F.W SQW STIMATED ANNUAL NATURAL GAS CONSUMPTION - 233 THERMS 980 COST - $1. 50/THERM STIMATED COST - $349.00 /HOME STIMATED COST - $3103.00 /HOME ESTIMATED ANNUAL EQUIVALENT FUEL O1L CONSUMPTION 980 COST - $1.65/GALLON AT BARROW - 1881 GALLONS — ll wa Oo o o HINOW/IG9 ‘NOI ldWNSNOOD 1.0 38 JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR MAY MONTHS FIGURE 12. Estimated Average Home Fuel 011 Consumption in Barrow Lu = S = nn = oS — — <= o A co el 1 2 o — Qo. = => ”n 2 So oO a =< =) = =a <x a tad — <= = — Nn tu = o — — <= S = s+ N a ace ' ~ Dn Qo 1) So co Ss 4 tu = S = S a aS N S l — n Qo © a Lad — <= = — Nn Lud MMM WO O99 QM WogF?D2FF 8 RWW oo OOOO MINNA RQ RQ AAA RX MMM HH ogg goog QA MMII WF NW o So a “Ni HINOW/IG9 ‘NOI ldWNSNOD 40 10 39 JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR MAY MONTHS Fuel Oi] Consumption in Kaktovik FIGURE 13. Estimated Aver: qu = S = a) = o —_ —_ <= oO Oo ~ 3 = 1 = oO — Qa. = — ”n = 2 oO — ae —_ tL — <= = = = <x ao tad — <= = — Nn od = o — — <= S => eo aS Pad tH ' kK Wn oO oO S ao a _ lu = oS = a Oo oO we i ee nn Oo CO Oo tu — <= = e Nn Lu RMA RMS QW dWHH}H}NHANH 994 QU HH QQ Wo dDIN|NINAIAIAIAIAIAIGIHQYIQY RM MMM ASA SSS SSS SSS RMF 00 IMMA RX WSF-.. MGW XSI So i) \ N 4.0 3 10 HINOW/I9 ‘NOI ldWNSNOD 40 JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR MAY MONTHS FIGURE 14. Estimated Average Home Fuel 011 Consumption for Nuigsut Tv CONSUMPTION, bbI/MONTH 4.0 » o i) Oo 10 ESTIMATED ANNUAL FUEL CONSUMPTION - 1738 GALLONS /HOME 1980 COST - $1.00/GALLON ESTIMATED COST - $1738.00 /HOME JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR MAY MONTHS FIGURE 15. Estimated Average Fuel Oil Consumption in Point Lay tu = S = 2) 2 o —_ — <x oO co .o uw a 1 = o — Qa. = = n = o oO —_t wi — a — <= _— = = <x a Lu ~— <x = — YN tu = °o — a < S wa ‘oO at we 1 — n So oO S a el Ww = 9 = S Oo YY co uw S 1 — a) o oO a Laud — < = — Nn tu 4.0 RS... nr 69 XQ. 0 ggg GG... AEE Gg NYLQ™CEO#OEAAAIWIIIIIddHNd}]}DHAHAA AIH 9 RSC... AAA AAAS WW AiAw3w QQ '".. SSG. NS 9 MG MQ QEEQMS o oO on N 1.0 HINOW/I9G ‘NOI LdWASNOOD 42 JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR MAY MONTHS FIGURE 16. Estimated Average Fuel Oil Consumption in Point Hope ESTIMATED ANNUAL FUEL CONSUMPTION - 1826 GALLONS /HOME 1980 COST - $1.57/GALLON A sss AN N_ SM SASSMMAAMAAS NT _ MAMAS ASIN Se GGG MMA MMMAMAN ESTIMATED COST - $2867.00 /HOME So So os N 4.0 10 HINOW/IG9 ‘NOILdWNSNOD 43 JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR MAY MONTHS FIGURE 17. Estimated Average Fuel Oi] Consumption for Wainwright We acquired, information regarding the local community needs and site characterization for the villages by visiting villages, through dicussions with residents and Borough personnel, and by studying the Regional Profiles. Addi- tional information could have been acquired during village visits if a guide could have accompanied the study team. Unfortunately the individual selected for this assignment terminated his employment with the Borough just prior to the study team's arrival in Barrow. Use factors, such as fuel cost, local availability, long-term availability, environmental impact, public acceptance and transportation requirements, were used to rank order the fuel or alterna- tive energy resources for the several villages. Scoring was based on a scale of 1-10, where 1 is the poorest and 10 is the best. Although the system is based on subjective factors, it has been shown to be a good method for quantifying institutional, social and cost factors for compar ison. (25) The scoring sheets used in this process are found in Appendix B. The fossil fuels and alternatives were rank ordered based on this evaluation and the results will be discussed for each village site in later sections for the fossil fuels. The use of wind energy ranked first in all villages in the Borough although it may be marginal in Nuiqsut, Anaktuvuk Pass and Atkasook. Solar energy data is only available for Barrow where estimates of the cost savings for using solar energy have been made . (30) Solar energy could not be evaluated on a site-by- site bases. Use of solar energy should be considered in planning for the future. The cond it ions for using solar energy have been outlined previously and will only be discussed briefly under the village evaluation. Recommended equipment for collecting the needed data are included in Appendix C. Anaktuvuk Pass Anaktuvuk Pass is located in the heart of the Brooks Mountain Range at approximately 2100 ft. The community had 185 residents in July 1979/37), There are 25 resident structures, a four-plex apartment complex for the school teachers, and miscellaneous other buildings in the village. A new school, power plant, a new store and an air terminal building are being constructed and new housing is being planned. (38) The school, power plant, and terminal building are being built under Borough contracts and the new store is being built by the Nunamiut Native Corporation. When completed the new construction activities will increase fuel use in Anaktuvuk Pass. 44 The electrical power needs for the village are supplied by the Borough, (©) which operates a diesel electric generating station. Domestic fuel requirements are supplied by the Nunamuit Village Corporation. At the present time, imported petroleum products are the sole source of fuel . All fuel is brought into the village by air. Air transport costs vary. A 49000-1b load airlifted by a Her- cules aircraft from Fairbanks costs $5500. (4) When the power plant is completed, waste heat from the diesel electric generators will be used to heat the school offsetting the increased energy need resulting from the construction activity. Estimated fuel requirements for home heating are shown in Figure 10. Oi] is delivered to the village at a cost of $2.00/gal (Table 6). Oil used for home heating is estimated at 43000 gal/yr. Fossil fuels, such as gas and oil, are not found in sufficient quantity near Anaktuvuk Pass to be considered as an indigenous energy source. Two exploratory gas wells were drilled 15 and 30 miles north of the village. Thomas E. Kelley!) reports that neither well was a producing well, and both are now capped. Exploration and drilling will continue within the region for some time to come. The progress of the exploration effort should be evaluated regularly to determine if natural gas could be supplied to Anaktuvuk Pass from a pipeline source built to transport the gas to users outside Alaska. Fossil fuel resources, i.e., coal and oi] shale, are located 30 to 50 miles north of the village. Village residents do not consider coal desirable fuel because it is dirty, because of its odors and because they feel it requires special hand- ling. Villagers, however, did indicate that coal from near the Colville River was burned in the village at one time. Although there is resistance to the use of coal, the possibility of opening a subsistence coal mine and transport- ing the coal to the village should be investigated for the long term future. A field reconnaissance by a qualified geologist would establish the availability for a coal resource for such a venture. Assuming a favorable outcome, the (a) Discussion with Mike Monohan, Alaska International Construction, Anaktuvuk Pass, Alaska, September 27, 1979. (b) Thomas Kelley, Consultant, Anchorage, AK, January 28, 1980. reconnaissance would be followed by core drilling and other field sampling to establish the quality and quantity of the reserve. Further development of the operation would be patterned after the mining operation planned for Atkasook. The only indigenous renewable energy resources available at the village site are wind and solar energy. At the present time only limited data are available for evaluating the potential of either energy form. Although local residents pointed out that the pass was very windy and wind was an acceptable option, data obtained from Mr. James Wise of the Arctic Environmental Informa- tion and Data center (4) for 1972 indicate that wind is a marginal resource (Table 7). Available data are limited to one year's observation. Unfortunate- ly, the average windspeed of 8.3 mph from January through March, when the energy is most needed, is marginal. In order to fully evaluate the resource, at least one to two years additional data are required to eliminate the bias of an unusual weather pattern. The required data are now being collected by an automated weather station installed in late 1978 near the airstrip. Data collected at this station are transmitted by satellite to the National Aero- nautics and Space Administration and are stored in a computer. These data (a) could be accessed at a reasonable cost if it is desired in the future. Solar energy data is available for Bettles, near Anaktuvuk Pass for a period of several years. Available data suggests that enough solar energy may be available to supply energy for domestic water heating and other purposes during part of the year. Unfortunately, as indicated earlier, experience in applying solar energy to meet Arctic needs is limited and further work is needed before it is used in the village. Oil will continue to be the most acceptable energy source to the resident population as long as the price does not get too high. Although current prices are considered high they have not become high enough to force the residents to consider alternative fuels, i.e., coal. An evaluation of energies to meet vil- lage needs was completed. Oil and wind were first in the rank order followed (a) Information furnished by James Wise, Alaska State Climatologist, Alaska Environmental Information and Data Center, Anchorage, Alaska, October 1979. 46 by coal and possibly solar energy use. It should be noted that the poor public acceptance of coal as a resource is the reason for coal being in second place in the ranking of fossil fuel resources. Unfortunately, energy independence for the village requires that public acceptance of coal as a fuel be improved. Wind energy use ranks high because of public acceptance although it may be marginal. Atkasook The village of Atkasook is located on the Arctic coastal plain about 50 miles south of Barrow on the Mead River. The community currently has a population count of 99 people according to the 1979 Borough census. (37) These people live in 21 homes. In addition to the homes, the village has a power- generating station, warm-storage facility, a vocational education building, and a combination community center and school building. (39) Future plans call for a fourplex apartment building and a new school and power plant. (39) The waste heat from the new power plant will be used to heat the school partially off- setting the additional energy needs of the village when the construction is complete. At the present time, the residents burn fuel oi] for heating and cooking. 0i1 is also used to heat all other structures in the village and as a fuel for the diesel electric power generating equipment. Estimates of village fuel requirements for heating a home are shown in Figure 11. The planned con- struction and other village activities will further increase fuel use. Esti- mated annual fuel oi] delivered by airplane to the village for home heating is 40000 gal/yr at a cost of $1.94/gal (Table 6). A large coal deposit is available to the village. It has been actively worked in since before 1944. Coal from along the Mead River has also been used by the Eskimo population for their hunting and fishing camps. Between June of 1943 and winter of 1944-45, the U.S. Bureau of Mines and the Alaskan Native Service developed a surface mine and provided about 150 tons of coal to Barrow. Unfortunately, the top of the coal seam is slightly lower than the average water level of the Mead River. Because there was no protective bank, or the bank washed away, the Mead River flooded the open-pit mine. During the winter of 1944-45, the U.S. Bureau of Mines and the Alaskan Native Service enlarged a shaft, and over the years until 1964, between 400 and 2000 tons of coal was 47 mined annually. The mine was shut down in 1964. Most of this coal was cattrained from Atkasook to Barrow for use by local residents in Barrow. Kent Grinage of the North Slope Borough indicates current plans call for the opening of a village-operated coal mine. (29) The coal produced from this mine is expected to supply most of the heating requirements of the village at a lower cost than oi]. Local residents would be employed to mine, transport and distribute this resource within the village. The village of Atkasook was selected as a pilot for the North Slope Borough because the local residents unanimously requested that the Borough seek a mining permit and establish the feasibility of using local coal a residential fuel. Depending upon the success of the program in Atkasook, other villages in the North Slope may also choose to convert from oi] to coal supplied locally. Planning for the mining of coal (39) here. Mining methods and reclamation procedures to meet environmental stan- for village use in Atkasook is described elsewhere and will not be detailed dards, the environmental problems associated with coal burning, and the accep- tance by the local population of coal as a fuel are discussed in the above- mentioned report. Sufficient coal reserves exist locally in the proposed 19 acre mining area to provide the village with a reliable source of fuel for several hundred years. At the present time, the coal is considered to be a fuel source for home heating only. However, in the future, if the mining of coal is successful for home use, it could also be considered as a primary fuel source for power generation. Although the village is located within the NPRA, Robert Lanz and other USGS personnel report that there is no evidence of gas or oi] near the village. If any oi] were found, it would have to be transported to refineries for pro- cessing and then returned for use. Thus, oi] is not considered a local resource for the village. Natural gas, unless it is available close to the village, cannot be considered. Renewable resources within the area surrounding the village may be wind and/or solar energy. Unfortunately, insufficient data are available to evalu- ate either of these resources. Normally, at locations inland from the coast the wind energy potential drops dramatically. Atkasook is approximately 70 miles from the coast and would therefore have similar wind characteristics to 48 those found in Umiat. Data for Umiat (Table 7) show a marginal wind potential Electrical power produced by wind generators should be evaluated further since during periods when the wind does blow, any power derived from wind would be power that would not be required from a petroleum or coal. A similar situation exists for the use of solar energy. Solar energy would be expected to be available from mid-March through late September in quantities sufficient to reduce the quantity of fuel required for domestic heating. The value of this resource needs to be identified. Unfortunately, poor weather prevented the authors from visiting this village. Public acceptance factors of any resource other than coal could not be evaluated. Technical evaluations to rank order energies to meet village needs show coal as the primary village fossil fuel resource. Coal acceptance is based on the request for its use as a village fuel. The wind potential for the village may be marginal although rank ordered first but more work is required to fully evaluate the resource. Barrow Barrow, including Browerville and vicinity, is the northern most community in the United States. During the past 40 yr, Barrow has grown from a subsis- tence hunting village of approximately 300 residents (14) (37) At the present time, a significant proportion of into a community of over 3400 people. Barrow's population are reported to live in substandard housing, which are poorly insulated, inadequately wired and overcrowded. (325) Replacement housing is currently planned or being constructed, both within the confines of Barrow itself and in Browerville to the northeast. The extent of the planned development is outlined in the North Slope Borough Capital Improvement Project Descriptions 22) and will not be described in detail here. Because of the rapid growth in housing and public structures in Barrow, it is vital that sup- port facilities and accesses be expanded before further large scale expansion is initiated. In addition, within the Barrow area, there is a large need to increase the available energy supply. At the present time, the primary energy supply for the Barrow area is natural gas. Accurate data on oi] use for home 49 heating is not available but the use of oil is believed to be negligible according to Kent Grinage. (4) An estimate of oil and natural gas consumption for a residence in Barrow is given in Figure 12. Since natural gas is the primary fuel for Barrow these estimates are shown in equivalent barrels of oil and therms (1000 ft?) of natural gas. Natural gas is an ideal source of fuel for either heating or electrical generation. Barrow has been fortunate to have access to a local supply of natural gas. Personnel at the uses‘) report that unfortunately, unless demand is reduced in the near future, this supply will be depleted sometime during the next 10 to 15 yr. The availability of natural gas in Barrow has (2,3,4) These reports discuss the current been reviewed in several reports. situation and establish cost estimates for the continued exploration and development of the gas reserves in the South and East Barrow gas fields. They also determine the feasibility of continued gas deliveries to Barrow. These studies also investigated alternative energy sources which could be made available to the Barrow area. Primary alternative fuel sources which were considered were coal, oil, and expanded development of the natural gas resources south and east of Barrow. Additional natural gas reserves may exist in the South and East Barrow gas fields. At the present time, exploration is continuing in the East Barrow gas field, and during 1980 three exploratory holes will be drilled in the area. Speculative reserves exist to the south, but if these are to be proven, addi- tional wells must be drilled. One well drilled in the area south of Barrow, the Walakpa, and evaluated in 1979 raised additional hopes. Evaluation of this (c) well is not complete but preliminary data show that this well may be marginal. (a) Telephone discussion: Kent Grinage, Utilities Manager, North Slope Borough, Alaska, February 1980. (b) Telephone discussion: Robert Lang, USGS, Seattle, Washington, January 30, 1980. (c) Telephone discussion: John Haugh, USGS, Anchorage, Alaska, Feburary 5, 1980. 50 Based on the data presented in the reports cited and discussions with Bob Lanz and others employed by the U.S. Geological Survey, we determined that the only fossil fuel energy supply near Barrow is natural gas. Coal reserves do not exist within 10 to 20 miles of Barrow. However, coal may be available 35 to 40 miles south and southwest of Barrow. Coal was brought to Barrow from Atkasook before 1963 and coal has been reevaluated (2+3+4+9) authors of these reports have discussed producing coal near Wainwright and ship- ping it to Barrow by barge or land transport. The costs presented by Gruy seem as a possible fuel for future long-term use in Barrow. The high, and those presented by Bottge seem low. It would appear that the actual costs for coal in Barrow would be on the order of $150/ton to $175/ton delivered. They also investigated mining coal and producing power at Wainwright and trans- mitting the power to Barrow. Costs for this alternative were prohibitive. Alternative renewable energy resources for Barrow include wind and solar energy. Under present economic conditions, wind velocity data for Barrow sug- gest that wind machines are a possible option for electrical power generation. The windspeed in Barrow averages 11.6 mph, (Table 7). Thus, there is a good probability that windpower could be a economical supplementary energy resource. Installation of wind machines to provide power to the Barrow and Browerville should be considered on a step-by-step basis. Normally, wind usage in an electrical power grid should not exceed approximately 25% to 30% of the total peak power generating capacity in the grid, according to Emil Kadlec of Sandia Laboratories using existing techno logy. (4) Additional siting studies are required to ensure optimum location for any wind turbines which may be installed. The technical evaluation of fossil fuels available to Barrow and its resi- dents reflects the near- and mid-term availability and cost factors affecting fossil energy resources available for Barrow and its residents. For the period through 1990 natural gas is clearly the fuel of choice for the Barrow area. (a) Discussion with Emil Kadlec, Sandia Laboratories, Albuquerque, New Mexico, December 5, 1980. apt Because of Barrow's unique proximity to a declining resource of natural gas, this evaluation was repeated for the long-term. In the long-term, the cost of natural gas will increase, availability of natural gas will decrease and cost of transport of natural gas to Barrow will become more expensive, thus, the rank order of these fuel resources will change and coal will become the major fuel source available in the Borough which could supply Barrow's needs. Plan- ning for meeting Barrows future energy needs should include the orderly shift from natural gas to coal as a fuel source. Kaktovik Kaktovik is located in the eastern part of the Borough on the northern edge of Barters Island approximately 250 miles east of Barrow. The community had 193 residents as of July 1979, (37) At the present time there are 31 Borough houses and other private dwellings, a school, and a new utilities building. The utilities building houses the electrical-generating plant for the village and the water supply and purification plant. An addition is planned for the school in the near future, and additional Borough housing being constructed or planned for the future. Community fuel requirements will increase accordingly. The electrical power demands for the village are supplied by the Borough which operates three diesel electric generators. Waste heat from the power plant is used for water treatment and to keep the village water supply from freezing in winter, conserving fuel. The school has its own generator and it should be connected into the village power system to conserve fuel. Domestic fuel requirements are supplied to the village by the Kaktovik Inupiat Corpora- tion. At the present time, petroleum products, the only fuel source, are imported. Nearly all of this fuel is brought into the village by barge during the late summer and is stored during the winter. Oil can also be brought into the village from Fairbanks by Hercules. Cost for this oi1 is much higher because of the increased freight cost and unless an emergency exists this air transport is not used. (4) Fuel oil for residential use in Kaktovik cost was (a) Waldo Audi, Major, Kaktovik, Alaska. 52 $1.25 gal in 1979, (Table 6). An estimate of the average heating oi] required for a home in Kaktovik is shown in Figure 13. Total residential oi] use in Kaktuvuk is estimated at 58000 gal/yr. There are no indigenous fossil fuel supplies currently available to the village. The village is located within the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. The residents do not want oil or gas exploration or drilling to be carried out within the confines of the game refuge, since they rely on it for subsistence hunting. Oil and gas have been found in surrounding areas. Prudhoe Bay and Beauford Sea are well-known for the fossil fuel reserves and it is possible that Kaktovik is located above oi] and gas reserves. However, exploration has not started nor does it appear that there will be any exploration in the fore- seeable future. Although coal is not available locally, it is the only long- term fuel available in the Borough for village use. Coal could be mined at Wainwright and Point Lay and shipped to Kaktovik by barge in the summer if mines are developed at either of these villages for local use. In addition, the coal located along the Colville River south of Nuiqsut, if developed as a resource, could be shipped to Nuiqsut or Kaktovik by cattrain in the winter. Costs for coal barged from Point Lay or Wainwright are expected to be between $160 to $190/ton in Kaktovik because of the distances involved. Coal cat- trained from the Colville River south of Nuigsut would probably cost somewhat more because this location is isolated and adequate housing and support facili- ties would have to be provided for the operating crew during mining operations. More details on the needed developments are discussed in later sections cover- ing village resources. Kaktovik resident's reluctance to use coal and the cur- rent local price of oi] will prohibit the use of coal as a village fuel in the near to mid-term future. The indigenous available renewable energy resources are wind and solar energy. Wind potential in Kaktovik is better than that found in Barrow (Table 7). Wind could therefore supply a large amount of the power required by the village, and the resource is acceptable to Kaktovik residents. Require- ments for using wind energy would include locating the optimum area for the wind machines as well as identifying the requirements for maintenance and operation of these devices. 53 Although oil is scored higher than coal in the rank order process, it is not clearly the fuel choice for Kaktovik by this evaluation. Cost and public acceptance factors could significantly affect coal's evaluation in the long- term future. For example, if oi] cost $2.00 per gallon or more in Kaktovik this could increase the public acceptance of coal and improve its rating. Until oi] costs become high enough this will not occur. Nuigsut Nuiqsut is a village of 206 residents upstream from the Beaufort Sea along the Colville River and 60 miles West of Prudhoe Bay. The site is near a former location of an Inupiat trading (40) (37) located approximately 20 miles center. There are 51 houses in a community, a recently completed four- plex apartment house and a school building complex. The new school and power plant complex currently being constructed, will be completed by mid-1980. The Borough is also building new houses and a water treatment plant in the village. These additions will increase village energy and power demand. Waste heat from the power plant will be used to heat the school and for water treatment parti- ally setting the latter fuel need. Electrical power is supplied by the Borough, which operates a diesel- electric generating station. As soon as the new power plant building is completed all existing generators will be moved. Fuel oil is the only source of energy for electrical power generation and domestic use. Fuel oil is $1.98/ gal and is normally provided by the Kuukpik Village Corporation. Fuel is nor- mally transported to the site by air, although it has been brought to the vil- lage by cattrain from Prudhoe Bay or by barge from the “Lower 48". Barge transport requires a river pilot be hired at additional cost. An estimate of fuel oil required for heating a house in Nuiqsut is shown in Figure 14 and total needs for home heating are estimated at 75,000 gal/yr. Fossil fuel resources have not been identified within 5 to 10 miles of the village. Exploratory wells have been drilled approximately 25 miles North- east of the village!”) but none are producing either gas or oil at this time, and personnel at the USGS in Seattle and Anchorage indicate that it is unlikely that gas will be found locally. Outcrops of coal have been identified approxi- mately 30 miles to the south on the Colville River bluffs, but the extent and 54 7) Coal in this area would be expected to be a low-grade bituminous coal, and depending upon its fuel value, sulfur and ash content, and quantity, it could be mined and transported to the village as a fuel. Further evaluation of the coal resource is war- quality of this resource has not been evaluated. ( ranted. Preliminary efforts to evaluate the resource should include a full reconnaissance and sampling. If the reconnaissance is successful, core dril- ling should be completed to establish the extent of the resource. The Atakasook experience could be then used as a pattern for further development. Renewable resources include wind and solar energy. Unfortunately, no local data are available to evaluate either resource properly. Wind data from Umiat indicate a marginal wind resource (Table 7), but this resource should be further evaluated since Nuiqsut is closer to the coast. It is highly probable that further evaluation might justify the use of wind as an alternative energy resource. Solar energy could also be considered in planning for the future but is lower than wind in the rank order. Since Nuiqsut is inland, it should have a better solar index than Barrow or other coastal communities. Coal is accepted by local inhabitants as a possible replacement for oi]. This and the high price of oil in the village are the primary factors which rank coal over oil as the primary fossil energy form for village use in Nuiqsut. Point Lay The village of Point Lay is located on the coast approximately 175 miles southwest of Barrow. The community has approximately 72 residents (27), The village is located on the sandspit on the seaward side of Kasegluk Lagoon, near the mouth of the Kokolik River. The study team was not able to visit this village because of weather-caused delays. A new village site was proposed on the mainland side of the Kasegluk Lagoon; however, villagers are uncertain about whether they will approve the new site. (4) called for the construction of houses, a power plant, a school, and other Planning for the new site (a) Telephone discussion: Kent Grinage, Utilities Manager, North Slope Borough, February 8, 1980. 55 facilities. Plans also call for recovery of waste used from the power plant as a conservation measure. An estimate of the fuel required to heat a home in Point Lay is shown in Figure 15. Yearly residental fuel oi] needs for Point Lay are estimated at 33,000 gal/yr. The indigenous fossil energy resource available for village use is the coal available nearby along the Kokolik River. The coal in the region of the Kokolik River was evaluated for its fuel value and coking properties in 1969 (15), average heating value of approximately 10,500 Btu/lb (Table 4). Although the core drilling was evaluated approximately 35 to 50 miles away near the Kokolik It was found to be a low-sulfur, low-ash bitunimous coal with an River, coal existing nearer the proposed village site is believed to have simi- lar properties. Additional reconnaissance would be required to establish the size and value of coal beds nearer the village. Based upon this reconnaissance, subsistence mining of the coal for village use might be indicated. The effort would be similar to the proposed development at Atkasook. Because the study team was unable to visit this village, it is difficult to judge public accep- tance of coal as a village fuel. Kent Grinage reports that the Village Utility Board member is interested in developing coal as an alternate fuel for village use. This point needs clarification. Although public acceptance factors for use of coal for Point Lay could not be evaluated, coal is identified the fuel of choice. It will have a cost advantage over oil, will be locally available and has a long-term availability not found with natural gas or oil. Even if public acceptance were poor the rank order would not be changed significantly. Assuming that it is nearby in sufficient quantity and that the villagers and willing to exploit the resource, coal would be a long-term source of fossil fuel for the village. Oil and gas have not been found near the village site. The area near Point Lay is in NPRA, and although exploration is continuing, neither of these fuels should be relied upon for the long term. If either is found on native lands, the sale of the resource could provide valuable income to the area. Renewable resources, such as wind and solar energy, were also evaluated. The wind potential at Point Lay appears to be better than at Barrow. Although the data are not as complete as those for Barrow, further evaluation is cer- tainly warranted since the average yearly windspeed is 13.7 mph. Terrain fea- tures and other environmental factors affecting the use of this resource will determine the site chosen. As mentioned earlier, before wind energy is used for power generation appropriate planning and demonstration must be done to evaluate maintenance and operation requirements. Wind energy also be consid- ered as a supplementary energy source since it is intermittent and may not be available when it is needed most. Wind is first in the rank ordering of renew- able resources for village use. Windmills have been installed but not success- fully operated for power generation at Point Lay. The lack of success is reported to relate to inadequate training in proper operation and maintenance of the machines. Solar energy should also be considered in planning for the future although fog or low clouds may reduce its availability during part of the summer. More information is required to fully evaluate the solar energy potential for Point Lay. Although public acceptance factors for use of coal for Point Lay could not be evaluated, coal is identified the fuel of choice. It will have a cost advantage over oi], will be locally available and has a long-term availability not found with natural gas or oil. Even if public acceptance were poor the rank order would not be changed significantly. Point Hope The village of Point Hope is located approximately 350 miles southwest of Barrow and 150 miles northwest of Kotzebue. The village site is on the point west of Marrott Lagoon. The community had approximately 527 residents in July 1979, (37) built and waste heat recovered from the power plant is used to heat the school, A new school, power plant and water treatment facility has been and for water treatment as a conservation measure. New housing is also under construction as planned. (38) The study team did not visit Point Hope because of weather problems, therefore, we cannot evaluate resident views about using alternative energies. Figure 16 estimates the fuel oil used to heat a home in Point Hope. Total community oi] use for home heating is estimated to be 175,000 gal/year. An indigenous coal field is located approximately 25 miles to the east of the village. This coal is classified as semi -anthracite. (41) No specific 57 data are available for this deposit. A reconnaissance sampling effort and thorough transportation analysis would be required if the local coal were to be used. Additional coal fields are located in the Cape Beaufort area and these coals are similar to those described for Point Lay in the previous section. Further evaluation of either resource for village use is warranted. Oil and gas reserves are indicated in the area; however, these reserves have not been evaluated. Both Point Hope and Point Lay are outside of NPRA; therefore, exploration could be carried out under direction of the State of Alaska or the Arctic Slope Regional Corporation. Until exploration begins, the potential for either energy source cannot be evaluated. In addition, any locally produced petroleum will have to be processed before it can be used; and therefore, it cannot be considered as useable indigenous fuel source. The wind energy potential for the Point Hope area is unknown; however, data available for Cape Lisborn and Point Lay suggest that this resource may be viable supplementary source for producing additional electrical energy. A portable weather station will have to be set up onsite to evaluate the wind potential and to identify the optimum sites for installation of wind machines. As mentioned previously, this resource should be developed with appropriate planning and demonstration before it is used for village power generation to evaluate maintenance and operation requirements. Solar energy should also be considered in planning for the future. Although the resource needs evaluation, it should be similar to Barrow or Point Lay. Although coal may have been used in the past, this could not be deter- mined from the literature investigated. Since the village was not visited, we also could not identify resident exploitation of the resource. Wainwright residents revealed that coal may have been used as a fuel by residents of Point Hope also. If natural gas were found close to Point Hope it could displace coal for a period as the fuel of choice because of its desirable qualities when it is available. Wainwright Wainwright is located approximately 90 miles southwest of Barrow between the Wainwright inlet of the Kuk River and the Arctic Ocean. There are 58 425 residents in the village according to the July 1979 census. (37) Village housing consists of 105 houses built during the mid-1930's and recently con- structed Borough housing. A new school and power house being constructed will be completed this year. A water treatment facility was installed by the EPA in 1974. Several older public buildings are still being used. The electrical power needs for the village are supplied by the Borough which operates the diesel electric-generating station. 0i1 imported from the “Lower 48" by barge is the principal energy source used in the village. Several residents supplement the oil with coal collected from deposits left on the beach after storms; it is sacked and stored near the residences and burned as a domestic fuel. Figure 17 shows the fuel oi] needed to heat a home in Wainwright. Waste heat from the newly installed power plant is used for space heating in the school and for water treatment as a conservation measure. The estimated fuel used for residences in Wainwright is 191,100 gas/yr. Indigenous surface deposits of good-quality coal have been worked for a long time. Discussions with local residents revealed that at least one of these deposits has been used as a source of village fuel for at least a century. Surface deposits at locations approximately 4, 10 and 20 miles upstream along the Kuk River have been worked. A picture of one of the deposits is found in Figure 18. Coal was dogsledded and later hauled by snowmobile to the village from these locations and stockpiled during the winter. Informants indicated that the coal from the upstream locations is preferred because it burns very cleanly, does not have a bad odor and. produces very little ash. Unfortunately, there is no mining activity at the present time, but several individuals expressed interest in the use of coal if its cost were reasonable. Several plans have been developed by Gruy, (223) Bottge, (2) Beck, (4) and others to exploit this resource for use in Barrow or for export. All of these later studies considered larger-scale operations than would be required to supply Wainwright with coal, and they did not consider the use of local labor. If coal were to be used for village fuel in Wainwright, resource should be (8,9) developed in a similar fashion to the development underway for Atkasook. Oil and gas have not been found in the vicinity of Wainwright in producing quantities, and it is unlikely that they will be in the near future. Special 59 FIGURE 18. Coal Deposits Near Wainwright legislation, similar to that enabling Barrow residents to use gas from the Barrow gas fields would likely have to be enacted by Congress to permit Wain- wright residents to use natural gas since Wainwright is in NPRA. Sufficient windspeed, persistence and direction data are available to estimate the windpower potential for the Wainwright area. Although average windspeeds are less than they are for Barrow, (Table 5), this resource should be considered as a supplementary energy resource for the electrical power generation for the village. Since the available data were obtained at the Dewline Site and not near the village, additional studies should be made to establish the most suitable location for using this resource. As mentioned 60 earlier, equipment for providing electrical power are first generation, there- fore, careful evaluation of the maintenance and operational characteristics must be made prior to village application on a large scale. Solar energy should also be considered in planning for the future. The rank order evaluation Appendix B shows that coal should be developed as a local energy resource for Wainwright residents. Since it is already used by several villagers to reduce oi] consumption, its use could be encouraged if local sup- plies are developed under Borough sponsorship. In addition, the coal reserve could be developed in a orderly manner for shipment to other locations in the Borough and provide income and employment for Wainwright and its residents. CONSERVATION Conservation of energy is an extremely important aspect of this evalua- tion. Its importance to the Borough is illustrated in Figures 19 and 20. A heating degree day in Figure 19 is a measure of the amount of heat (fuel) required to maintain the temperature in a building at 65°F. The difference between the average daily temperature in °F and 65°F is the number of heat- ing degree days for the day. Based on this information one can easily see that the insulation requirement for a home or other building on the North Slope is at least 3 to 4 times that for Seattle and at least twice that for the coldest areas of the "Lower 48" or Southern Alaska. Figure 20 compares our estimates of average fuel costs in the several North Slope villages, and Anchorage and the "Lower 48." To arrive at these the estimates in Figure 20 we assumed that a Borough resident burned 1 barrel of oil for each 600 heating degree days. This assumption was based on information supplied to the authors during inter- views with village residents concerning their fuel usage. These illustrations show the need for better building and insulating practice to improve energy conservation in the Arctic. The committment of the Borough to energy conservation is demostrated by their policy statement 80-1E found in Appendix A. The fifteen points spelled out in this policy statement identify conservation, use of local energy resources, education, development of employment opportunities and other means whereby the Borough believes that they can attain energy self sufficiency. 61 AVERAGE NORTH SLOPE BOROUGH BARROW ATKASOOK NUIQSUT RES KAKTOVIK KG G{{[,_A \JlNdk\ MUNA 29, 994 WAINWRIGHT KV GGG [1]: USSF 29, 747 POINT LAY ANAKTUVUK PASS POINT HOPE ANCHORAGE HMO 10,911 INTERNATIONAL FALLS, MINN ESSSSSSSSSSSSSS 10, 600 SEATTLE, WN SSG 448 0 5 10 15 20 25 HEATING DEGREE DAYS x 1000 FIGURE 19. Annual Heating Degree Days for the North Slope Borough and Other Locations $4000 $3000 $2000 $1000 BASED ON BOROUGH AVERAGE OF $2.04/GALLON OF OIL (JAN. 1981) BASED ON BOROUGH AVERAGE CONSUMPTION OF 1-BARREL/EACK 600 HEATING DEGREE DAYS $1496. 37 NORTH SLOPE ANCHORAGE, INTERNATIONAL SEATTLE, WN BOROUGH ALASKA FALLS, MINN FIGURE 20. Comparative Costs (uniform price) for Comfort Heating for the North Slope Borough and Other Locations 63 Several projects are underway or reported to be in the planning or implementa- tion stage to meet the objectives outlined in the policy statement. Projects underway include an operating transit system and operating heat recovery systems on newly installed and operating power plants in several villages. Projects are planned to tie the Barrow and NARL electric and gas systems together and other conservation measures identified in the Capital Improvement Project Descriptions. (38) Borough personnel also report that new housing and power generation systems are being designed for energy efficiency, projects are being developed and implemented to educate the public in energy conservation practices, and training programs are being developed or are underway to train local operators and maintenance personnel. The latter training efforts and development of local resources are useful in developing business and employment opportunities for the local population as well as in developing local sources of energy. In order to assist the Borough in identifying means for reducing energy consumption and community energy planning, energy audits of typical Borough housing and other public buildings were made. In addition, construction prac- tices, maintenance and operation needs, and other factors that could influence energy use were investigated. The results of these efforts are presented in the following paragraphs. Energy conservation measures are ranked and their expected impact on consumption is discussed. A rough schedule for their imple- mentation is provided. In order to obtain the required information, Borough maintenance and operating personnel and village residents were interviewed, various thermal measurements were made to determine building heat losses, and electrical generating, heating, and ventilating equipment was examined during visits to Borough facilities in Barrow and five of the seven villages. A pho- tograph of the instrument used to make thermal measurements of walls, windows, floors and other building components is shown in Figure 21. Directions for its use are found in the Appendix. The device is simple to use and for field work in evaluating energy efficiencies of building components is very accurate. Energy Audits Heat loss measurements for Borough housing examined are summarized in Table 10. We also made measurements of walls and windows in several "Lower 48" 64 FIGURE 21. Heat Probe Used to Make Thermal Measurements 65 TABLE 10. Borough Heat Transfer Measurement Btu/hour/square foot Windows Ceilings Floors Walls Dwellings, All Types Average 17.2 6.59 4.3 7.1 Highest 36 11.0 1.3 19.0 Lowest 3.4 3.0 13.0 0.7 Schools Average 22.0 3.5 - 5.9 Highest 36.0 - - 15.0 Lowest 12.0 - - 0.7 Utility Building, (Kaktovik only, insulated with sprayed urethane foam) Average 15 - 1.55 1.6 Highest - - 1.6 1.8 Lowest - - 1.5 1.3 houses for comparison at similar temperature regimes. In addition to obtaining these comparative data, the relative merit of the housing construction and insulating methods was evaluated using methods and data described in the ASHRAE Handbook. (42) Plans for houses under construction were furnished by the Borough and additional onsite evaluations of Borough housing were done by the study team. Estimates in Table 11 show the cost to heat the houses under con- struction in the Borough from the latter evaluation. Estimates of average fuel use made from information obtained in interviews with residents, from evaluation of heat losses from housing plans provided by the Borough, and estimating fuel requirements using measurements of building component heat losses, are surprisingly close. The results of this comparison are shown in Table 12. An additional column has been added in Table 12 at this printing to show the increase in average heating cost for Borough resi- dences in 1981. This result is reassuring as to the accuracy of the analysis. Construction and insulation practice, design characteristics, and care of maintenance and operating all contribute to the energy inefficiency of these buildings. On-site evaluations and the evaluations of construction and insulating techniques show that poor vapor-barrier design, inadequate window construction and poor weatherstripping are major factors contributing to heat 66 TABLE 11. Estimated Fuel Cost ($/yr House) Anaktuvak Pass Atkasook Kaktovik Nuigsut Pt. Hope Pt. Lay Wainwright (a) House Floor Plan: TABLE 12. House Floor Plan(a) ABC BO Avg. $2153 $2006 $2505 $2379 2260 3456 3222 4023 3819 3630 2180 2032 2537 2409 2289 3564 3322 4148 3939 3743 2462 2295 2866 2721 2586 1678 1564 1953 1855 1762 2726 2541 3172 3012 2862 Outlines of the 6 house plans are found in Appendix E Comparison of Estimated Average Heating Cost for Borough Residences 0i1 Required Cost Cost gal/yr $/yr(1979) = $/yr (1981) Village Interviews 1665 2715 5538 Construction Practice Analysis 1676 2733 5575 Heat Transfer Measurements 1704 2779 5669 loss from Borough buildings. Most new buildings under construction have the wall structure shown in Figure 22. Table 13 shows the results of the analysis for heat loss from major building components and shows that air infiltration (leakage) into the structures needs to be stopped. In addition, better insulating practices can also improve the energy efficiency of these houses. These data and cost estimates for remodeling houses to improve their energy efficiency, can be used to prepare a preliminary benefit/cost analysis of conservation measures which can be implemented in the near- and mid-term 67 R-13 INSULATION INTERIOR WALL. SIDING AND BONDED VAPOR BARRIER, STYROFOAM SHEETROCK AND PANELING VAPOR BARRIER FIGURE 22. Existing Wall Design future. Some energy saving techniques cannot adequately be evaluated using benefit/cost analysis, where social factors, human comfort preferences, or institutional factors are controlling. For example, turning off lights or electrical applicances when not needed will result in significant cost savings 68 TABLE 13. Heat Loss By Building Component as a Percent of Total Heat Supplied House Floor Plan(a) Ree TTCStS~—<CSs—sSSS SSS Walls 9 9 8 8 Windows 14 16 15 19 Doors 5 4 4 3 Roof 7 7 8 7 Floor 7 6 7 6 Infiltration 59 58 58 57 Walls 6 6 6 5 Windows 27 31 29 28 Doors 19 14 16 17 Roof 7 7 7 6 (a) For specific floor plan see Appendix A but must be affected by social control. Many of these have been identified earlier and in the cited references. Benefit/Cost Analysis Benefit/cost analysis is a means of evaluating in monetary terms the economic soundness of various conservation measures. It is particularly useful in evaluating the benefits and costs of measures that government organizations sponsor, because unlike with industrial organizations, government organizations pay the costs for measures that benefit the general public. Usually, the pro- cedure is to express both benefits and costs in monetary terms so that they can be more easily compared on a periodic basis. Following that procedure we esti- mated capital costs and converted them into equivalent uniform annual costs to match the intervals which energy savings would occur. The ratio obtained from this conversion step indicates the acceptability of the measure. A ratio greater than 1 is acceptable and less than 1 is not acceptable. For more details, the reader should consult the references covering this topic found in (44) the References and Bibliography. an Yo} TABLE 14. Cost Benefit of Retrofit Options for Housing Estimated %/yr Expected Benefit/ Option Fuel Savings Life Cost Ratio Rank Order Nuigsut Point Lay 1 16 10 yr 35 16.5 if 2 25 30 yr 9.3 4.4 2 3 35 30 yr 1.4 0.65 3 4 40 30 yr Tr 0.53 4 4B 45 30 yr - 12 0.6 5 Benefit-cost ratio is equal to 1 or greater if the benefits outweigh the costs. For the purposes of this effort the following criteria were established. Fuel cost savings were the only measurable benefit of a retrofit to housing. Where heat recovery is indicated the savings in cost of the fuel was the benefit. Standard engineering cost estimating techniques were used to estimate costs and thus estimated costs may vary + 30% from actual final values encountered if the recommendations are followed. All costs and benefits are estimated in constant 1980 dollars and costs of fuel for 1980. No effect of inflation was considered. The interest rate selected for this evaluation was 10% based on information supplied by Kent Grinage of the North Slope Borough. The key results of this benefit/cost work are found in Table 14, and sum- maries of the methods for retrofitting or improving Borough housing to improve its energy efficiency are found in the following sections. Specific details on the costs estimates and detailed outlines of the procedures are found in Appendices D and E. 70 Benefit Cost Analysis for Housing Retrofits Table 13 identifies the major heat loss areas. Major loss results from air infiltration through windows, door jams, and cracks in walls and other areas where air can leak into the building. For example, recessed electric outlets which penetrate the vapor barrier and improperly designed vents. Windows and doors are the largest contributors to heat loss. The benefit/cost ratio for each of the following four retrofiting methodo- logies was determined. 1) installing calking and weatherstripping 2) adding weatherstripping, storm windows and new, wooden, insulated doors 3) reinstalling vapor barrier and relocating wiring inside exterior walls and ceiling, plus one and two above 4) installing urethane insulation, relocating wiring in interior walls and repaneling, plus one and two above The expected fuel savings and benefit/cost ratio for each option are shown in Table 14. The assumptions used to develop costs are found in Appendices D and E along with a detailed outline of the work required for building modifica- tion needed. The methods for developing benefit/cost ratios are found in a later section. The following subsections discuss these results and identify the methodologies where the greatest benefit/cost can be achieved. Retrofit No's 1 and 2 Additional caulking and weatherstripping, the installation of storm win- dows and wooden insulated doors/thresholds to check the infiltration of cold air can have the greatest impact on energy consumption at least cost i.e., the highest benefit/cost ratio. All houses visited during the field trip were draftly primarily near windows, doors, vents and electrical outlets. Informa- tion in Appendix E shows what steps could be accomplished by the homeowner using these measures. The estimated cost for Retrofit No. 1 is approxiately $100 and for Retrofit No. 2 is approximately $725. Assumning both are done at the same time the total cost would be approximately $825. Benefit/cost for the combined option would be 12.8 in Nuiqsut and 6.1 in Point Lay. 71 Retrofit Options 3 Option 3 will probably have to be completed under Borough sponsorship. Details for the work needed to complete this option are covered in Table E-3 Appendix E and only the major features will be discussed here. The major housing alteration considered is the installation of a new vapor barrier. This would require the removal of window and door trim and disconnecting all exterior wall and ceiling electrical service, installing a new vapor barrier, and refinishing the interior of the exterior walls, ceilings and floors. Cost for this option are estimated at approximately $8411 per house; the method appears to be cost-effective in all villages i.e., the benefit/cost ratio is greater than one. This is particularly true since the price of oil is rising more rapidly than the price of coal (or gas). The building changes suggested for this retrofit are illustrated in Figure 23 and the assumptions used in developing the costs for this option are found in Appendix D. Retrofit Option No. 4 The major steps in Option IV are similar to those identified in Option III except that additional urethane foam insulation is added to the walls and ceilings to improve the energy efficiency of these components. Deails of the needed modifications are found in Tables E-4 and E-5 in Appendix E. Sketches for the needed retrofitting are shown in Figure 24. Estimated cost for this option is approximately $12,800. A technically more efficient alternate option (Option IV B) is shown in Figure 25 could be completed for an estimated $14,700. Although either option is highly desirable the benefit-cost ratio is greater than one; i.e., in Atknsook, Anakthuvuk Pass and Nuiqset. If homeowners did all but the spraying of urathane a large cost savings could be obtained and this option (IVA or IVB) would be cost effective in all villages. Additional Housing Options Investigated Conservation option studied was to evaluate new construction under way and identify conservation measures which could be incorporated into these struc- tures. The conservation measures identified in the retrofit options should also be incorporated into structures being constructed. Infiltration must be 72 EXISTING SIDING AND BONDED STYROFOAM FIGURE 23. CEILING ——» FURRING VAPOR BARRIER SHEETROCK NEW 3/8 INCH SHEETROCK ON CEILING NEW PRE-FINISHED PANELING wal ON WALLS 6 INCH JOINT OVERLAP ) NEW VAPOR BARRIER, CONTINUOUS AND OVERLAPPED x EXISTING PANELING EXISTING SHEETROCK EXISTING VAPOR BARRIER R-13 INSULATION Option III -- Installation of a New Va i tion I por Barrier Existing Exterior Wall to Reduce Air Infiltration i3 SURFACE MOUNTED ELECTRICAL | | |! L- new 3/8 INCH SHEETROCK, ul] WALLS AND CEILING | ! IL NEW 3/16 INCH PRE-FINI SHED PANELING | FURRING AND 1 INCH SPRAY x URETHANE FOAM BETWEEN STRIPS x EXISTING PANELING SP EXISTING SHEETROCK EXISTING VAPOR K BARRIER CZ EXISTING SIDING FIGURE 24. Option IV-A -- Increase the Wall and Ceiling Thermal Resistance and Reduce Air Infiltration 74 CEILING SHEETROCK 1 INCH URETHANE FOAM EXISTING SIDING NEW 3/8 INCH SHEETROCK REPLACE FIBERGLAS INSULATION WITH 3 INCH SPRAYED URETHANE FOAM FIGURE 25. Option IV-B -- Replace Existing Wall Insulation with 3 Inch Sprayed Urethane Foam and 1 Inch Urethane Foam on the Ceiling and Reduce Air Infiltration 75 minimized, insulation must be increased to levels acceptable for the environ- mental constraints, and vapor barriers must be properly installed. It is far less costly to incorporate energy conservation considerations during construc- tion than to retrofit later. Specific factors which should be examined and monitored during design and construction are: Minimum insulation values should be R-30 for walls, R-40 for floors and R-50 for ceilings. Vapor barriers should be sealed between the interior wall and the decorative paneling or exterior walls. The vapor barrier should be continuous and unbroken in the interior walls, ceilings and floors of all inhabited structures. This may mean caulking or taping will be required between overlaping sections of the polyethylene vapor barrier. Because the vapor barrier must be continuous all electrical and plumbing service on exterior walls and floors or on ceilings must be surface-mounted. Sufficient weatherstripping must be installed around windows and door jams to prevent air infiltration. Door thresholds should be wood and should also have suitable weatherstr ipping. Properly vented storm windows should be provided for all windows. All windows should be thermopane and in wooden frames. Storm porch entries should used on all entries to houses or build- ings. The inner doors of these entries should be weatherstripped as if they were exterior doorways. Vents and other openings to the outside should be minimized. Where needed, dampers and adequate sealing techniques should be used to reduce air inflow. Although the above list is not exhaustive, it covers the major factors which must be handled in monitoring designs and accepting new housing based on energy 76 efficiency. Additional costs for the needed changes in specifications if com- pleted during construction are estimated at $3500 per house. Benefit-cost ratio for doing the additional work on houses under construction are estimated at 2.7 in Point Lay and 5.8 in Nuiqsut; thus, the projects are desirable. Investigation of Other Northern Housing Construction Experience Canadian experience in designing houses for Resolute, Coppermine and other Arctic locations has demonstrated that the above criteria work. Mr. Hami1ton‘@) explained that he used local input from remote village sites in designing the houses being installed in these areas. Design specifications for houses being prefabricated for installation during 1980 call for insulation values of R-50 in ceilings, R-40 in floors and R-30 in walls. Between 800-1000 gallons of fuel oil per year will be needed to heat these houses. The Canadian designs are also reported to reduce the need for electricity for controlling furnaces and circulating heated air. Carefully designed furnace plenums and ductwork are reported to be responsible for the reduction in electrical demand for fur- nace operation. Rough estimates of the cost of a 1200 ft? house completed in a Canadian Arctic village could be as low as $70,000 (Canadian). More information is required to verify the actual cost of these nouses. The Cana- dian experience should be followed carefully since fuel savings and maintenance factors in these houses appear to be superior to existing Borough housing. Other suggestions to reduce energy consumption in Borough buildings are identified in Appendix G and in the manual prepared by Crews McInnes and Hoffman. (43) Several devices which can be used to save energy are listed in the Appendix G. Power Generation and Heat Recovery Heat in any form is a valuable commodity in the Arctic, therefore, should be conserved if possible. Nominal fuel efficiency for diesel-electric genera- tors is approximately 40% or 9000 Btu per kWh produced. Fuel economy is (a) Discussion with: William G. Hamilton, Woolfenden Group Architects Limited, Edmonton Canada, February 13, 1980.) De improved signficantly, by as much as 90% if heat recovery is used where the cost of fuel is high. (2) New diesel electric power plants under construction in Borough communities have heat-recovery systems. Usually these systems use the waste heat contained in the cooling fluid for the diesel engine by transferring it to another heat transfer medium (propylene glycol) in a heat exchanger. The propylene glycol is circulated to where the heat is needed and returned to the heat exchanger for more heat. Recovered heat is used for space heating, (schools, public buildings) sewage and water treatment facilities, etc. Heat-recovery systems are now active in Wainwright and Kaktovik. It is essential that these systems be operated by trained personnel, and that they be periodically evaluated, maintained and cleaned. The heat-transfer fluid also needs to be clean and free from dissolved solids and suspended matter. Unless clean water is used in formulating the heat transfer fluid mixture the heat transfer efficiency of the system will be compromised by the formation of scale that plugs lines and valves and causes other problems. Instrumentation (flowmeters, thermometers, pressure gauges, etc.) is not sufficient to properly evaluate power plant and heat recovery system perfor- mance and prevent unwanted and expensive system breakdown on systems installed or under construction in Borough villages visited by the study team. Total fuel-use data are not available because of a lack of adequate instrumentation. Electrical power for Barrow is produced by gas turbine-driven generators. Beck and Gruy'3*4) report fuel use for these machines is approximately 20,000 Btu/kWh. Based on this value, the energy conversion efficiency to electrical power of the gas turbine is 17%; that means that 83% of the energy in the gas is lost to the environment. Thus, if heat recovery were used in Barrow, there would be enough energy available from this source to meet the fuel requirements of the school and Public Health Service facilities and part of the commercial needs. This conclusion is based on the 1976 fuel use estimated by Beck and Associates. (4) Approximately 129,000 MCF/year of natural gas could be saved (a) Visit to: R. Angus, Caterpiller Diesel Engine, Edmonton, Canada, June 27, 1979. 78 for future use, based on 1976 consumption figures. (4) A cost benefit/cost analysis was performed to evaluate the maximum capital investment which could be tolerated for such a installation. Based on the current gas price of $1.50/ MCF in Barrow, approximately $2,000,000 could be spent for a suitable heat recovery system to heat the school, Public Health Service and/or other buildings. If fossil fired (diesel electric, coal or natural gas) power plants are installed in the future, heat recovery is essential if efficient fuel use is to be achieved. During periods when space heating requirements are low, the heat could be used for other purposes, i. @., Sewage treatment, etc. 79 ENERGY STRATEGY MASTER PLAN AND INITIAL PROJECTS Although planning an energy strategy and master plan for the Borough was beyond the scope of our study we can offer some guidelines in planning for Borough energy development. Figure 26 outlines major elements which are needed to develop a energy master plan and the elements to carry projects identified by the master planning process to fruition. The Borough community is strongly committed to achieving energy self- sufficiency. Although the North Slope Borough may be the focal point, input should be sought from the Arctic Slope Regional Corporation, the villages, and the village corporations. Although we were able to compare the technological and cost factors affecting the various energy resources or conservation mea- sures, we could not address the Borough's ability to finance the measures required to expand or acquire new resources. Additional financial planning input is needed, and on the basis of that input, the priorities identified in this or other reports prepared for Borough organizations may need to be altered. Borough Master Plan The outcome of the effort to develop a strategy is a plan for how the Borough and its companion organizations will effectively use available energy resources or evolving energy technologies. The master plan should carefully identify various factors affecting energy uses and make a commitment in princi- ple as to their implementation. The various methodologies and logic factors required for developing, conserving, implementing, or further evaluating energies or energy technologies need to be identified in the plan and used for project implementation. Emerging Energy Technologies and Prospects Not all emerging energy technologies will be suitable for Arctic applica- tion. In order to ensure that the Borough, its residents, and companion organ- izations can achieve the maximum benefit from the use of these new technologies, a method for evaluation must be carefully identified. The Borough's master 80 18 STRATEGY MASTER PLAN DEVELOP BOROUGH ENERGY Tr BOROUGH ENERGY | IDENTIFICATION PRELIMINARY ENERGY RESOURCE FINANCIAL RESOURCE DISCOVERY PLANNING UPDATE UPDATES PROJECT clip PROJECT IMPLEMENTATION PRIORITIZATION OF ENERGY OPTIONS EMERGING ENERGY TECHNOLOGY = j=———— ! IDENTIFICATION FIGURE 26. EMERGING TECHNOLOGY PROJECT IDENTIFICATION DEMONSTRATION EVALUATION Energy Strategy and Planning plan should address this need and identify a generalized project management procedure for identification, evaluation, and demonstration of a new technology. 82 10. ll. 12. 13. REFERENCES Regional Profiles. The Region, Anaktuvuk Pass, Atkassook, Nuiqsut, Point Hope, Point Lay, Wainwright, Deadhorse, The University of Alaska, Arctic Environmental Information and Data Center, Anchorage, AK. Bottge, R. W. Coal_as Fuel for Barrow, Alaska: A Preliminary Study of Mining costs, U.S. Bureau of Mines, Report OFR 88-77. Gruy Management Service Company. 1979. A Study of Alternative Fuel Sources for Barrow, Alaska. Husky Oi] NPR Operations, Inc., Anchorage, AK. Gruy Management Service Company. 1979. Supplement to a Study of Alternative Fuel Sources for Barrow, Alaska. Husky O11 NPR Operations, Inc., Anchorage, AK. Beck, R. W., and Associates. 1977. Energy Study for Barrow, Alaska, United States Department of Interior, Alaska Power Administration, Juneau, alaska. Rutherford, R. W., Associates. 1979. Supplement to a Study of Alternative Fuel Sources for Barrow, Alaska. Husky Oi] NPR Operations, Inc., Anchorage, AK. Dayton, S, "Alaska, A Land and People in Search of a Future," Engineering and Mining Journal, 180(5):72-87, May 1979. Lynch, D. F., N. I. Johansen, C. Lambert, Jr. and E. N. Wolff. 1978. Constraints on the Development of Coal Mining in Arctic Alaska Based on Review of Eurasian Arctic Practices. U.S. Bureau of Mines, Report OFR 41-78. Kaiser Engineers, Inc. 1977. Technical and Economic Feasibility Study Surface Mining of Coal Deposits, North Slope of Alaska. Bureau of Mines. Conwell, C. N. "Alaskan Coals May Prove a Big Plus in Future Exports Picture", Mining Engineering, October 1972. Conwell, C. H. “Alaskan Coals", AME Transactions, 252(9):279, September 1972. Conwell, C. H., "Reclaiming Mined Lands in Alaska", Transactions of SME, 260(3), March 1976. Alaska Regional Profiles, Arctic Region, The University of Alaska, Arctic Environmental Information and Data Center, Anchorage, AK, 1975. Ref-1 14, 156 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. al. 22. 23. 24. 2%. 26. ale 28. 29. C. D. Brower, Fifty Years Below Zero, Dodd, Mead and Company, NY, 1972. Warfield, R. S., and C. C. Boley. 1969. Sampling and Coking Studies of several Coal Beds in the Kokolik River, Kukpowruk River, and Cape Beaufort Areas of Arctic Northwestern ATaska. Investigations, 7301, 0.3. Bureau of Mines, U.S. Department of the Interior, Washington, DC. Strippable Reserves of Bituminous Coal and Lignite in the United States. Information Circular 8531, U.S. Bureau of Mines, United States Department of the Interior, Washington, DC. The Reserve Base of U.S. Coals by Sulfur Content, Part 2, The Western States. Information Circular 8693, U.S. Bureau of Mines, United States Department of the Interior, Washington, DC. Libowitz, G. G., M. S. Wittingham, Materials Science in Energy Technology, Academic Press. Loftness, R. L. Energy Handbook; Van Norstrand Reinhold Company, New York, NY, p. 409, Tot Climatic Atlas of the Outer Continental Shelf Waters and Coastal Regions of Alaska, Vol. lll, The University of Alaska, etc above, 1977. PNL Regional Wind Energy Assessment, Alaska Regional Assessment, Battelle, Pacific Northwest Laboratories, Richland, WA, 1980. Wentink, T. Jr., "Wind Power in Alaska - An Impossible Dream", The Northern Engineer, 5(4):13-18, 1973. Bettignies, C., "Wind Energy", The Northern Engineer, 5(4):13-18, 1973. Sater, B. F. Arctic and Middle North Transportation, The Arctic Institute of North America, Washington, DC, December 1969, pp. 128-131. Sullivan, W. M., Economic Analysis of Darrieus Vertical Axis Wind Turbin Systems for the Generation of Utility Grid Electrical Power, SAND 78-0362, Sandia Laboratories, Albequerque, NM, August 1979. Eldridge, F. L., Wind Machines, The Mitre Corporation, Prepared for National Science Foundation, RANM, Report No. NSF-RA-M-75-051, Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC, October 1975. Mazria, E., The Passive Solar Energy Book, Roadale Press, Emmaus, PA, 1979, pp. 346-357. Sieffert, R., Energy for the North", The Northern Engineer, 9(1):29-35, 1977. Sieffert, R., L. Leonard, "The Solar Component", The Northern Engineer, 9(4):19-25, 1977. Ref-2 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44, Sieffert, R., Solar Energy Resource Potential in Alaska, Report No. IWR-89, Institute of Water Resources, University of Alaska, Fairbanks, AK, March 1978. Justas, C. G. and Amir Mikhail, "Generic Power Performance Estimates for wind Turbines", Wind Technology Journal, 2(Vol. 1 and 2), Spring, Summer, 1978. The Canadian Central Receiver Solar Unility Concept, The Research and Development Division, Canada Morgage and Housing Corporation, October 1979. Security and A Price Ceiling for Home Heating, Research and Development Division, Canada Morgage and Housing Corporation, August 1979. Loftness, R. L., ibid., p. 353. Kosper, W. C. 1974. "Power from Trash." Environment. Energy Recovery from Solid Waste, Vol. 1, Summary Report. NASA-ASEE Systems, Design Institute, 6(2):35. University of Houston, Johnson Space Center, Rice University, NASA Crant NGT 44-005-1114. H. M. Wagner, Principles of Operations Research, Prentice Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, Nd, 1969. North Slope Borough Population Estimate, July 1979, North Slope Borough, Barrow, AK. , North Slope Borough Capital Improvement Project Descriptions, The North Slope Borough, Bordow, AK. Moening-Grey and Associates, Inc. 1979. Plan of Operation Proposed Coal Mine Atkasook, Alaska. North Slope Borough, Anchorage, Alaska. R. E. Spencer, The North Alaska Eskimo, Dover Publications, Inc., New York, 1957. Conwell, C. N., Energy Resource Map of Alaska, Alaska Geological and Geophysical Surveys, College, AK, 1377, Amer. Soc. of Heating, Refrig., and Air Cond. Engineers, ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals, 345 —. 47th Ste., New York, NY, 1972. Crews, MacInnes and Hoffman. 1979. Fuel Storage and Conservation Study. The North Slope Borough, Barrow, AK. Newman, D. G., Engineering Economic Analysis, Rev. Ed., Engineering Press, San Jose, CA, 1977. Ref-3 Ts 2. 10. ll. 12 BIBLIOGRAPHY J. E. Sater, P. G. Ronhovde and L. C. Van Allen, Arctic Environment and Resources, The Arctic Institute of North America, Washington, DC. 1971. L. Zetlin, "A Challenge for New Arctic Technology", Proceedings of the Symposium on Arctic Logistic Technology, B. F. Slocum, Ed., The Arctic Institute of North America, Hershey, PA November 1971. J. 0. Fletcher, Proceedings of the Symposium on Arctic Logistics Technology, 8. F. Slocum, Ed., the Artctic Institute of North America, Hershey, PA, November 1971.Ibid. B. Puchtler, B. H. Reid, "Alaska Village Demonstration Project, The Northern Engineer 7(2):5-12, 1975. N. Unterstein, Proceedings of the Symposium on Arctic Logistics Technology, B. F. Slocum, Ed., The Arctic Institute of North America, Hershey, PA, November 1971. B. F. Sater, Arctic and Middle North Transportation, The Arctic Institute of North America, Washington, DC, December 1969. D. A. Hendrickson, Alaska in the 70's a Conference Report on Alaska Canadian Relationships, The Arctic Institute of North America Montreal, September 1976. R. M. Klein and K. M. O'Conner, An Evaluation of Energy Aternatives Alaska and the Western United States and Review of EIS 74-90, Section F, State of Alaska Department of Natural Resources, Division of Geological and Geophysical Surveys, Anchorage, AK, February 1975. F. J. Matthies, F. Asce and F. L. Beasen, “Alternative Energy Sources in Cold Regions", Proceedings of the Conference on Applied Techniques for Cold Environments, Vol. 1, The American Society of Civil Engineers Anchorage Alaska, May 1978. H. P. Behret, H. Binder, G. Sandstede, "Development of Fuel Cells - A Materials Problem", Materials Science and Energy Technology, ed. G. G. Libowitz and M. W. Whittingham, Academic Press, 1979. P. D. Metz, Proceedings of Solar Energy Storage Options Workshop, Vol. I, Conf. 790328, P-1, U.S. Dept. of Energy, San Antino, Texas, March 1979, Ds 31. G. 0. Balding, Alaska Water Assessment, U.S. Geological Survey Open File Report 76-613, August 1976. Bib-1 13. 14. 15. 16. Vi 18. 19. 20. ral 22's 23. 24. 20%. 26. (Qk Jobs and Power for Alaskans: A Program for Power and Economic Development, Department of Commerce and Economic Development, Juneau, AK, p. 85, July 1978. T. E. Osterkamp, "Same Potential Problems Associated with Hydroelectric Development in Alaska", The Northern Engineer, 9(2), p. 4-6, 1977. P. Kruger and P. Otte, ed., Geothermal Energy, Stanford University Press, Stanford, California, 1926. R. B. Forbes and N. Biggar, “Alaska Geothermal Resource Potential", The Northern Engineer, 5(1), pp. 6-10, 1973. R. K. Swartman, R. Green, An Ocean Thermal Difference Power Plant in the Canadian Arctic, The University of Western Ontario, London, Canada. A. R. McKay, "Power Generation Using Arctic Sea Water as a Heat Source", Second Annual Thermal Power Conference and Eighth Biannial Hydraulics Conference, Washington State University, Pullman, Washington, 1971. A. R. McKay, "Pollution Free Power", The Northern Engineer, 3(4), pp. 5-8, 1972. C. H. Convell, and D. M. Tripleton, "High Quality Coal Near Point Hope, Northwestern Alaskan, Short Notes on Alaskan Geology Division of Geology and Geophysical Surveys", p. 31-35, 1976. Jd. W. Reed, Windpower Chromatology of the United States, Sand 74-0348, Sandia Laboratories, Albuquerque, NM, June 1975. J. W. Reed, Windpower Chromatology of the United States, Supplement, Sand 78-1620, Sandia Laboratories, Albuquerque, NM, 1979. B. F. Blackwell, W. N. Sullivan, R. C. Reuther, and J. F. Baner, Engineering Development States of the Darriens Wind Turbine, Sand 76-0650, Sandia Laboratories, Albuquerque, NM, 1977. E. G. Kadlec, Characteristics of Future Vertical Axis Wind Turbines, Sand 79-1068, Sandia Laboratories, Albuquerque, NM, 1978. D. M. Dodge, J. V. Stafford, “Proceedings: Small Wind Turbine Systems", 1979, Vol 1&2, RFP/3014/3533/79-8, Sponsored by the U.S. Department of Energy, Bolder CO, 1979. M. H. Horstell, “Aerodynamic Performance of the 17-Meter-Diameter Darriens Wind Turbine", Sandia Laboratories, Albuquerque, NM, 1979. E. M. Hinrichsen, "Induction and Syneronous Machines for Vertical Axis Wind Turbines", Sandia Laboratories, Albuquerque, NM, 1979. Bib-2 28. 29. R. H. Braasch, Supervisor, Vertical Axis Wind Turbine Technolo Workshop, SAND 76-5586, Sandia Laboratories, Albuquerque, NM, May 1976. N. N. Barish and S. Kaplun, Economic Analysis for Engineering and Managerial Decision Making, McGraw-Hill Book Company, New York, NY, 1978. Bib-3 APPENDIX A NORTH SLOPE BOROUGH ENERGY CONSERVATION POLICY NORTH SLOPE BOROUGH UTILITY DEPARTMENT POLICY STATEMENT 80-1E SUBJECT: Energy Conservation Policy STATEMENT: DATE: November 30, 1979 The Borough reaffirms the basic historic and cultural accomplishment of efficient energy use and Local self-sufficiency as primary yoals. local self-sufficiency and local control of energy supply are key factors iu local autonomy and cultural preservation. Energy conservation should apply to all areas of energy use - residential, commercial, public, industrial and transportation. The Borough should set a strong example in areas and projects under its control. The Borough Utility Department, in coordination with the Planning, Environ- mental Protection, Public Works, and other Borough Departments, along with the Arctic Slope Regional Corporation and the village corporations, siould prepare, update and implement a comprehensive Borough energy plan. The Utility Board, Planning Commission and Borough Assembly should receive this plan for review and approval in a timely manner. Specific alternate energy projects, such as the Atkasook coal conversion project, should be undertaken as soon as possible to provide a realistic, practical demonstration and test of such alternatives. The Assembly strongly supports staff efforts to obtain outside grants for the planning and implementation of alternate energy systems and increased energy conservation, as already demonstrated in part by the approval of CIP code 13-20 Alternate Energy Project. Local conservation and alternate energy alternatives do not remove the short-term need for the oil and gas producers on the North Slope to provid lower cost fuel and energy to neighboring villages, especially Nuiqsut, Kaktovik, and Anaktuvuk Pass. The Assembly strongly urges the School Board and School District to develop courses to teach the young people the techniques of energy conservation anu alternate energy as developed and used by their ancestors. The Borough shall stimulate through its energy program and projects, indus- tries that are job-intensive and mechanisms that promote economic control and self-sufficiency. asec Policy Statement 80-1E Energy Conservation Policy 9. 10. Il. 12. 13 14. 15. Due to the transportation cost of imported goods, the Buerough should en- courage domestic production and/or gathering of basic goods. The Borough shall provide aid in the form of consultation service and financing to enable home-owners to take energy conservation measures on their homes and apartments. The Borough shall ensure the participation by all government, institu- tional, and commercial entities in all viable energy conservation and local resource utilization programs and projects to ensure self-reliance and the optimum use of all North Slope energy resources. With State and Federal support, work programs should be expanded to in- clude those for retrofitting existing structures, conducting energy audits, and implementing conservation and weatherization programs. Energy conservation shall be considered in land use planning decisions. The Borough shall provide direct financial assistance to the elderly and/or handicapped who are heads of households and are unable to provide for the rising cost of energy. The Borough, including the School District and Inupiat University, shall provide training and education in energy conservation on existing facili- ties and on the utilization of new energy resources and related technology. EFFECTIVE: November 30, 1979 AUTHORITY: Motion, N.S.B. Utility Board, November 30, 1979 DATE: CHAIRMAN: APPENDIX B EVALUATION ENERGY SOURCES IN BOROUGH VILLAGES I-@ TABLE B-1. Rank Order Evaluation of Fossil Fuel Resources (Anaktuvuk Pass) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Coal 6 3 8 5 1 7 30 1 0i1 5 0 3 8 10 5 i 1 Natural Gas 5 0 0 3 8 6 22 3 2-4 TABLE B-2. Rank Order Evaluation of Alternate Energy Resoures (Anaktuvuk Pass) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Wind 8 6 8 9 5 5 41 1 Solar 6 6 8 4 5 5 34 2 Sewage 2 1 2 1 it 2 9 3 Trash 2 1 2 i 1 Z 9 3 €-€ TABLE B-3. Rank Order Evaluation of Fossil Fuel Resoures (Atkasook) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Coal 10 10 10 5 8 8 51 1 011 5 0 3 8 us 5 21 2 Natural Gas 5 0 1 5 a 2 17 3 * Could not evaluate study team did not visit village coal use was requested by village. v-d TABLE B-4. Rank Order Evaluation of Alternate Energy Resources (Atkasook) Use Fac tor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Wind 6 6 8 5 7 5 30 1 Solar 6 5 8 5 * 5 29 2 Sewage i; 1 2 1 * 1 6 3 Trash 1 1 2 1 7 1 6 4 * Unknown; village not visited by study team. g-8 TABLE B-5. Rank Order Evaluation of Fossil Fuel Resources (Barrow, Near-mid-Term) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Coal 7 4 9 5 _ 6 38 2 0i1 6 0 3 9 7 6 30 3 Natural Gas 9 9 3 9 9 9 48 1 9-4 TABLE B-6. Rank Order Evaluation of Fossil Fuel Resources (Barrow, long-term) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Coal 7 4 9 5 7 6 38 1 Oil 4 0 3 9 7 6 30 3 Natural Gas 4 2 0 9 9 6 30 2 ia TABLE B-7. Rank Order Evaluation of Alternate Energy Resources (Barrow) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Wind 8 8 8 9 6 7 54 1 Solar 6 5 8 4 5 5 33 2 Sewage 2 1 2 2 1 1 9 8 Trash 2 2 4 2 2 2 16 2 8-8 TABLE B-8. Rank Order Evaluation of Fossil Fuel Resources (Kaktovik) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Coal 6 0 8 4 1 6 25 1 0i1 6 0 3 8 8 6 28 1 Natural Gas 6 0 0 5 4 3 18 3 6-9 TABLE B-9. Rank Order Evaluation of Alternate Energy Resources (Kaktovik) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Wind 9 9 9 8 7 7 49 1 Solar 6 5 8 4 5 2 33 2 Sewage 1 1 2 i 1 2 8 3 Trash 1 1 2 1 1 2 8 3 01-8 TABLE B-10. Rank Order Evaluation of Fossil Fuel Resources (Nuiqsut) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Coal 6 3 8 5 4 5 31 1 dil 2 0 3 8 8 3 24 2 Natural Gas 5 0 0 8 8 6 27 3 II-g TABLE B-11. Rank Order Evaluation of Alternate Energy Resources (Nuiquit) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Wind 8 6 8 8 6 7 43 1 Solar 6 5 8 4 5 5 34 2 Sewage 2 1 2 2 1 1 9 4 Trash 2 1 2 2 1 2 10 3 e1-9 TABLE B-12. Rank Order Evaluation of Fossil Fuel Resources (Point Lay) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmenta] Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Coal 8 8 10 5 - 4 38 1 Oil 7 0 3 8 - 5 23 2 Natural Gas 5 0 ul 5 - 2 17 3 *Unknown; village not visited by study team. eI-g TABLE B-13. Rank Order Evaluation of Alternative Energy Resources (Point Lay) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Wind 8 8 8 - 7 6 37 1 Solar 6 5 8 - 5 5 29 2 Sewage 1 1 2 - 1 1 6 3 Trash 1 1 2 - 1 1 6 3 vI-a TABLE B-14. Rank Order Evaluation of Fossil Fuel Resources (Point Hope) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Coal 7 7 Z. 2 * 6 32 1 Oil 7 0 3 8 * 5 23 2 Natural Gas 5 0 1 8 x 6 20 3 * Unknown; village not visited by study team. SI-a TABLE 8-15. Rank Order Evaluation of Alternate Energy Resources (Point Hope) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Wind 8 8 8 7 4 6 37 1 Solar 3 5 8 5 ty 5 24 (2 Sewage 1 1 2 1 * 1 6 3 Trash 1 1 2 1 * 1 6 3 * Unknown; village not visited. 91-9 TABLE B-16. Rank Order Evaluation of Fossil Fuel Resources (Wainwright) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Coal 9 9 10 5 6 8 47 1 oil 7 0 3 8 8 5 Si 2 Natural Gas 5 0 1 5 5 6 22. 3 LI-4 TABLE B-17. Rank Order Evaluation of Alternate Energy Resources (Wainwright) Use Factor Local Long Term Environmental Rank Resource Cost Availability Availability Impact Acceptance Transport Total Order Wind 7 7 8 8 7 6 43 Solar 6 5 8 4 5 5 33 Sewage 1 4 2 1 1 2 9 Trash 1 2 2 1 1 2 9 APPENDIX C EQUIPMENT FOR ALTERNATE ENERGY EVALUATIONS THE SPECIFICATION SHEETS CONTAINED IN THIS APPENDIX WERE OBTAINED FROM CATALOGS AND THEIR PRESENTATION HERE DOES NOT NECESSARILY CONSTITUTE AND ENDORSEMENT OF THE PRODUCT. HOWEVER, BNW PERSONNEL HAVE USED THESE DEVICES WITH GOOD SUCCESS. | | Bei Spent eae eS ah ae Ae W223 AND W224 RECORDING WIND SYSTEMS DESCRIPTION The W223 and W224 Wind Systems were designed to fill the need for an inexpensive, general purpose wind speed and direction recording system where maximum resolution and accuracy are not required. A continuous trace of wind direction and wind speed are obtained on strip chart recorders. The W223 uses two 22’ wide strip chart recorders, one for wind speed and one for wind direction. The W224 uses a single 5"' wide strip chart recorder to record wind speed and wind direction side by side. Both recorders are 115 or 230VAC, 60 Hz operated. A switch is provided to select 115 or 230VAC operation. On special order, 50 Hz recorders can be supplied. Regulated DC motors can also be provided permitting battery operation. Both the sensor and the recorder console are compact in size permitting convenient installation. Wind direction is measured by a counterbalanced vane which moves a wiper on a long life plastic potentiometer. A three-cup anemometer assembly drives an AC generator to measure wind speed. External sensor components are molded plastic to eliminate corrosion. Anemometer cups are polycarbonate plastic. Sensor has a 7%" diameter mounting hole. Signal conditioning of the AC voltage from the generator; stabilized DC power for the wind direction potentiometer and ranging of the variable DC voitage from the potentiometer are accomplished with solid state circuitry located in the recorder housing. Voltage output of the AC generator is linearized to within ‘% of fuil scale. The pressure sensitive chart paper moves at a speed of 1”’ per hour. One second tapping of the pressure bar produces a dense trace of dots which can be easily followed by visual scanning of the record. Wind speed is recorded from 0 to 50 or 0 to 100 MPH or M/S. Switches are provided to select the 0 - 50 or 0 - 100 scales and MPH or M/S. The wind direction scale plate is marked with the 8 cardinal directions. An on/off switch is mounted on the front panei of the housing. Range adjustment is provided to permit calibration checks. Fifty feet of 5 conductor cable is supplied — other lengths available on special order. APPLICATIONS Recommended for the limited budget where a continuous gen- eral purpose record of wind direction and wind speed is desired. Where maximum resolution, accuracy and reliability under SHI NEeR einin Abana ore raniirad jt ie eaeammended that WIN? SPECIFICATIONS Sensor (Model W200-SD): ’ e Wind Direction ............. Counterbalanced va’ 100 potentiom. e Wind Speed ........ 3 cup anemometer; AC gene: © Size | ilaesamcies 6%"H x 16'"L x 7%'D overaii e Weight ............ 1.4 Ibs (0.63 Kg) including c: W223 & W224 Recorders: @: PADOT | oh ty gentec cree b toler mit 09 BelemIEeal Ete Pressure sensi e Chart Size W223 — 2%2'"W; W224 —5’'W x 63 ft. | @ GChartiSiZe eoserce tases - sae 1 in/hr (25.4 mm © Continuous Operation ...................- 1 mo e@ Power Requirements 115 or 230 VAC, 60 Hz — stans (6% watts) 50 Hz — special or: 12 VDC models draw 60 © Console Size ........ 10” wide x 8%" high x 9’ c © Console Weight/Shipping Wt. ......... 11 1bs./20 (5 kg./9.1 « ORDERING SPECIFICATIONS © W223 Recording Wind System, 0-100 mph complete W200-SD sensor, 50’ cable, W223R recording cons roll each C123D & C123S chart paper 115 or 230 VAC Hz. Range 0-50 and 0-100 MPH. and M/S. ¢ W223-DC Same as W223-2S except 12 VDC with regi. chart drives. e W223-R Wind Recording Console, MPH, less st. (Specify frequency.) W224 Recording Wind System, with 5’’ wide single « wind speed scales of 0 - 50 and 0 - 100 MPH & M/S se: ble by means of switches, W200-SD sensor, 350’ c W224R recording console and 1 roll pressure sen C124 chart paper, 115 and 230 VAC, 60 Hz. W224-DC Same as W224 except 12 VDC with regulated drive. W225 Recording Wind System. Same as W224 & W102-P/AC Skyvane | wind sensor supplied in i w200sD. W225-DC Same as W225 except 12 DC with regulatec drive. W224-R Wind Recording Console, less sensor (speci’ quency) W200-SD Replacement sensor, direction & speed, wii cable. W223-5C Cable. C123-D Wind Direction Chart Paper. C123-S Wind Speed Chart Paper, range 0-100. C124 Wind Direction: 0 to 360°; wind speed: 0 to 5 0-100. C123-AW 50 division chart paper. All Prices F.0.B. Sacre Anamometer $61 Varie $61 Anamometer $250 including dials $ 920 AC System 1300 DC System vue 14 Letternead/Logo THE EPPLEY LABORATORY, INC } | 12 Sheffield Ave., Newport, R. |. 02840. U S.A Telephone 40° 847-1020 Coe a alate let eedel ald lates leat Contact for further information George © Kirk Product Dats | Model. No. Sensor Tvpe | TT | al \thecmontle Instrument Classification ranometer _ Sensor Surtace Coating Lparson's black } vi ay Te- - ceiaeaninn istidice gel i optical lacquer Development Status ver No Prototype built & tested | | | Product on Capacity (monthiy? 30 ny } 1 In production xx | j Performance Data Sensitivity (mV /Joule-cm-frin |) (aaa Temperature evenaence '%/°C) rr | Ae a rennet Stability (%/year) | —- aed —— — 1 eenearity (%) | af \ 0.5%, i . | 0.5% impedance (ohm) cosine Response (%) i | 850 ohms _ “1%, | Soectral Range ( um) Time Response (sec) y Recalibratior Schedule (months: = .28-2.8 i Calibration Accuracy ‘%! i 7 _ to .5% | Application Data Solar & Globa! Solar | Dittuse Solar | Spectral Sota | Owect Sora | _ Intrarec ! infrared Net - i [s aie nee eee Horizontal ! | | | }—- KX - -4 ae a : | Tilted xx ‘ sift xx t Economic Data Asot Oate 2/77 Cost ($/unnt) (— j Warranty (months on | $990. I 12 months _ Recalibration Cost (S/unit) \ $100 ! Delivery time (days) 30 days \ Leena etreeereeeereeme! ee | Comments { i The Eppley Precision Spectral Pyranometer is used for the precise | Measurement of sun and sky radiation totally or in defined wavelength bands. | Usually supplied with WG7 clear glass hemispheres, other colored glass hemi- \ spheres may be substituted, permitting measurements in different wavelength | | regions. Also may be used with the Shadow Band Stand or Electronic Integrator. | ! | | | This is NWS standard instrument used in 38 station network. Code 155 Page B-61 Letterhead/Logo | Sf s LAMBDA Instruments Bo eeeage ||| | LPG : Lincoln, Nebraska 68504! |’ \.\ Corporation Phone (402) 467-3576 | Contact for further information: ] 402-467-3576 Produce’ Ciste Joe H. Hultquist, Ph.D., V.P. Marketing | } Cl Model/Part No. LI-200S | Sensor Type | Instrument Classification Pyranometer Sensor Surface Coating | Oesiccant Development Status Yes No Prototype built & tested Production Capacity (monthly) 100 + In production x Partormance Data , Rin ———— Sensitivity (mV /Joule-cs in.) Temperature Dependence (%/°C) .8 Typical ; <<) 5) 21552/.°C Stability (%/year) Linearity (%) 2% 1% to 3000wattsm* Impedance (ohm) * 100 Cosine Response (%) -| +5% to 82° a ° Spectral Range ( um) th cot Calibration Accuracy (%) + 5% Time Response (sec) ZO} sec Recalibration Schedule (months) 24 Application Date Soler & Global Solar | Diffuse Solar Spectral Solar Direct Solar Infrared | Horizontal Tilted Economic Data As of DateJan.1,'77 cost ($/unit) Warranty (months) s 12 ‘ Recalibration Cost ($/univ) $30.00 Delivery time (days) 30 *When used with a 100 ohm resistor or the 2200S Millivolt Adapter. The sensor is a current output unit normally. are issued with each sensor. Calibration certificates Similar to LAMBDA 658 NBS has found this to be very good, but wavelength range is 0.3 - 1.1 microns as opposed to Eppley Lab Pyranometer (75% of solar radiation is within this range) APPENDIX D COST ESTIMATES FOR CONSERVATION MEASURES IN EXISTING HOUSING COST ESTIMATION DATA - Cost for materials is based on current lower 48 prices plus 15% for approximate retail price in Fairbanks. - Shipping cost is estimated at $0.25 per pound from Fairbanks to Barrow and additionally $0.25 per pound from Barrow to the remote construction site. Total shipping is estimated at $0.50 per pound except where noted. OPTION I CAULKING, WEATHERSTRIPPING, INSULATED DOORS, DOOR THRESHOLDS Est. 1b Est. Cost Shipping - Caulking cartridges, $4.03 x 15 each $ 60.45 19 - Caulking gun, $9.20 x 1 each 9.25 3 - Weatherstripping, $1.37/roll x 2 each 2.74 1 - Door threshold, custom, $10.00 x 2 20.00 4 - Door, wood with insulation core, custom, $50.00 x 2 100.00 50 - Estimated shipping cost 38.50 fa - Labor, dwelling resident provided NONE TOTAL ESTIMATED COST $230.89 NOTE: These data were developed for typical Borough dwelling types A-B-C. Types D-F-G will cost approximately 5-7% more. D-1 OPTION II STORM WINDOWS DWELLING TYPES A-B-C-D-F-G Custom made, aluminum frame, suitable for each type of dwelling. Assumed price per window at Fairbanks $40.25 each. Assumed shipping weight, 20 pounds each. Dwelling Type A-B-C 12 windows Estimated shipping cost Miscellaneous materials Labor, dwelling resident provided TOTAL ESTIMATED COST 13 windows Estimated shipping cost Miscellaneous materials Labor, dwelling resident provided TOTAL ESTIMATED COST Dwelling Type F 15 windows Estimated shipping cost Miscellaneous materials Labor, dwelling resident provided TOTAL ESTIMATED COST 14 windows Estimated shipping cost Miscellaneous materials Labor, dwelling resident provided TOTAL ESTIMATED COST D-2 Est. Cost $483.00 120.00 20.00 NONE $623.00 $523.25 130.00 20.00 NONE $673.00 $603.75 150.00 20.00 NONE $773.75 $563.50 140.00 20.00 NONE $723.50 Est. 1b Shipping 240 260 300 280 OPTION III REDUCE AIR INFILTRATION BY INSTALLING A NEW VAPOR BARRIER ON EXTERIOR WALLS AND CEILING TYPES A-B-C ONLY - Walls and ceiling area 1874.14 ft2 Est. 1b Item Est. Cost Shipping Plastic, polyethylene, 4-mil, $34.01 + $10.00 shipping/1200 ft 20/1200 ft2 ange, = $0.08/#t2 x 18.74.14 $ 74.97 Prefinished wall paneling, 900.54 ft2 x $0.46/ft2 414.25 340 Estimated shipping cost, paneling 170.00 Sheetrock, 3/8 inch, ceiling, 973.6 ft2 x 0.17/ft2 167 .00 1460.4 Estimated shipping cost, sheetrock 730.20 Electrical outlets, switches, and fixtures 350.00 - Door and window trim, reuse - Labor estimated cost at $30/hour Preparation 16 MH 480.00 Vapor barrier install 24 720.00 Sheetrock installation 60 1800.00 Paneling installation 60 1800.00 Replace trim 12 360 .00 Replace electrical 24 720.00 TOTAL ESTIMATED COST $7787 .37 Unit cost per square foot = $4.16 D-3 OPTION IV-A REDUCE AIR INFILTRATION AND INCREASE WALL AND CEILING THERMORESISTANCE TYPES A-B-C ONLY Est. 1b Item Est. Cost Shipping Furring, 2" x 2" x 1120 linear feet x $0.20/linar ft. $219.00 784 Estimated shipping cost, furring 392.00 Sheetrock, 3/8" walls and ceiling 18/4.4 tt¢ x $0.17/ft2 318 .68 2811.4 Estimated shipping cost, sheetrock 1405.70 Prefinished paneling, walls, 900.54 ft2 x $0.46/ft 414.25 340.0 Estimated shipping cost, paneling 170.00 Replacement door and window trim 167 .00 - Urethane foam sprayed insulation, l-inch - Walls, 900.54 ft2 x $0.70/board foot 630.38 - Ceiling 973.6 ft2 x $0.70/board foot 681.52 - Estimated material weight and shipping 1548.25 3096.5 - Estimated shipping weight of equipment and cost 50.00 200.0 Electrical outlets, switches, and fixtures 350.00 - Labor estimated cost at $30.00 per hour - Preparation 16 MH 480 .00 - Furring installation 32 960.00 - Sheetrock installation 60 1800.00 - Paneling installation 60 1800.00 - Replace window and door trim 24 720.00 - Replace electrical 24 720.00 TOTAL ESTIMATED COST $12826.10 Unit cost per square foot = $6.84 OPTION IV-B REDUCE AIR INFILTRATION, PREPLACE WALL INSULATION WITH 3-INCHES URETHANE FOAM AND 1-INCH ON THE CEILING, TYPES A-B-C Est. 1b Item Est. Cost Shipping Furring, 2" x 2" x 480 linear ft x $0.20/linar ft. 96 .00 336 Estimated shipping cost, furring 168.00 Sheetrock 3/8", walls and ceiling 1874.4 ft2 x $0.17/Ft2 318.68 2811.4 Estimated shipping cost, sheetrock 1405.70 Prefinished paneling, walls 900.54 ft2 x $0.46/Fft 414.25 340 Estimated shipping cost, paneling 170.00 Door and window trim, reuse - Urethane foam sprayed insulation - Walls, 3-inch thickness 900.54 ft2 x $1.10/ft2 990.59 4460.5 - Estimated wall foam shipping cost 2230\..25 - Ceiling, l-inch thickness, 973.6 ft2 x $0.70/Ft2 681.52 1606 .0 - Estimated ceiling foam shipping cost 803.00 - Estimated shipping weight of equipment and cost 50.00 200 Electrical outlets, switches, and fixtures 350.00 - Labor estimated cost at $30.00 per man hour - Preparation 48 MH 1440.00 - Furring installation 16 480.00 - Sheetrock installation 60 1800.00 - Paneling installation 60 1800.00 - Replace window and door trim 24 720.00 - Replace electrical 24 720.00 TOTAL ESTIMATED COST $14637 .99 Unit cost per square foot = $7.81 0-5 OPTION V SPECIFICATION CHANGE FOR BUILDINGS AND DWELLINGS ON SITE, NOT ELECTED. - Replace R-13 rated fiberglas with 3-inches of sprayed urethane foam for an R-21 insulation value in walls. - Fiberglas insulation on-site intended for wall insulation to be installed in ceilings lwhere attics or space permits. Est. 1b Item Est. Cost Shipping Urethane foam sprayed insulation Walls, 3-inch sprayed urethane foam 900.54 ft2 x $1.10/Ft2 990.50 4460.5 Estimated wall foam shipping cost 2230.25 Estimated labor 1000.00 $4220.75 D-6 APPENDIX E RETROFIT MEASURES FOR EXISTING HOUSES ia Caulking, weather- stripping, and new door thresholds. TABLE E-1. Option I Minor Retrofitting Task Summary and Estimated Cost Caulk the foillowing locations: - Between window drip caps (top of window) and siding - Between door drip caps and siding - All joints between window frames and siding - All joints between door frames and siding - All corner joints formed by siding - At wall sills (base) meeting surporting foundation - All ceiling penetrations from unheated attic - Between porches (room entries) and main body of house Weatherstr ipping: - Doors, top and sides - Windows where possible Door Thresholds - Replace with self sealing thresholds or door sweeps Estimated Cost Material (see Appendix for cost detail) $230.00 Labor (resident provided) None $230.00 Appendix attachment: HOW TO DO IT, Pages 34-39 Second edition of, In The Bank Or Up The Chimney, by Department of Housing and Urban Development. é-4 Storm windows TABLE E-2. Option II Minor Retrofitting Task Summary and Estimated Cost - Assuming custom ordered storm windows for Borough dwellings type designs A-B-C-D-F-G. Window, glass, aluminum, frame. - Installation by dwelling resident. Estimated Cost Type A-B-C- $623.00 Type D 673.00 Type F 773.00 Type G 723.00 See Appendix for cost detail €-3 TABLE E-3. Major Retrofitting Option III Task Summary and Estimated Cost Reduce air infiltra- Preparations: tion by installing - Remove all interior window and door trim. a new vapor barrier - Disconnect all exterior wall electrical (switches and outlets. and exterior walls - Caulk and add insulatioa around windows and doors where needed and ceiling. under the removed trim. - Disconnect and remove all ceiling electrical fixtures and service. Installation: - Install new polyethylene (4-mil) plastic in a continuous run from floor to ceiling, across ceiling to floor and securing in place by either taping. All added strips to be overlapped at least 6-inches taped. - Install prefinished paneling on walls. - Install 3/8 inch sheetrock on ceiling. - Replace window and door trim. - Replace all electrical fixtures, outlets, and switches with prewired assemblies, surface mounted. Estimated Cost Material $1900 Labor 5880 $7780 See Appendix for estimating details i Reduce air infiltra- tion, increase wall and ceiling thermal/ and outlets) resistance from where needed under R-18.6 to R-26.3. Ceiling from R-24.8 fixtures and service. to R-31.9. TABLE E-4. Option IV-A Major Retrofitting Task Summary and Estimated Cost Preparations: Remove all interior window and door trim. Disconnect all exterior wall electrical (switches Caulk and add insulation around windows and doors the removed trim. Disconnect and remove all ceiling electrical Installation: Install 2x2 furring strips on existing inter surfaces of exterior walls and ceiling. Spray urethane to l-inch thickness between 2x2 furring strips on 24-inch centers. Install 3/8 inch thick sheetrock on sprayed walls and ceiling. Install prefinished paneling on walls. Replace window and door trim. Replace all electrical fixtures, outlets, and switches with prewired assemblies, surface mounted. Estimated Cost: Material $6300.00 Labor 6480.00 $12780.00 Reduce air infiltra- tion, replace existing wall fiberglas insulation with 3-in. of spray on urethane, add 1 - inch foam to ceiling and place used wall insulation in attic. I exists. Increasing walls from R-18.6 to 23.2 and ceiling from R-24.8 to 31.9. If space is available (attic) wall material will add a plus R-B. TABLE E-5. Option IV-B Major Retrofitting Task Summary and Estimated Cost Preparation: Remove all interior window and door trim. Disconnect all exterior wall electrical (switches and outlets). Remove all interior surface paneling and sheetrock from exterior walls to be treated. Remove all fiberglas insulation and SAVE. Caulk and add insulation around window framing where needed under the removed trim. Disconnect and remove all ceiling electrical fixtures and patch holes as needed. Installation Install 2x2 inch furring strips on 24-inch centers on ceiling only. Install 3 inches of spray urethane foam in exterior wall. Install 1 inch of spray urethane foam between furring and ceiling Reinstall used wall insulation in attic. Sheetrock walls and ceiling Install prefinished paneling on walls. Replace door and window trim. Replace all electrical fixtures, outlets, and switches with prewired assemblies, surface mounted. Estimated Cost $7700.00 6960.00 $14660.00 Materials Labor 9-9 MAJOR RETROFITTING Option V Task Summary and Estimated Cost Construction specifica- Dwellings and public buildings not assemblied but committed for construc- tion change for build- tion from 1980 through 1982 tc1P) could avoid later major retrofitting ings on site or sched- by specification changes. uled to arrive. Increase thermal SPECIFICATION CHANGES RECOMMENDED: resistance of walls - Wall insulation, 3-inch sprayed urethane foam from R=18.6 to - Install wall insulation (fiberglas) onsite or ordered to insulation R=27.3 scheduled for attic increasing ceiling R-value by 13. Total R-37.84. - Surface mounted electrical services and fixtures. ESTIMATED COST: Material $3200 Labor 1000 $4200 APPENDIX F HOUSE_PLANS i! By eee gS ema ne é tome aad ‘ @ os aiches go. be, - oe & Aa * ow Show * CF te tw ge eee es ©. i ee, eee, @_! paca een SS pod ee ee ——= I ool ence eenseeeeeeeeemneell anaes eeetieestitneiceeenelieneeell i astanctnitan teanisedicedinetie teeeetinlt meade ee ryt I atopy TN eedidmn nyse i I2z-0" Foie - U 4 Es (es 5} ! | | | 4 F i fi i oJ i Coated F-3 S-4 NO givnazine NOLTIOT 12, Wv\y 400\4 =a 4 = Tod ENN As ea et «9 UX FO'* OF F0!-< Boies @rze a werd Tan Jatt es, Gl) hE SS SSS x : ‘ SoZ NRE FRNA OANA NN EAS AANA rom ya See x Pam Ma Floor Plan ‘0! Pate bmieee—1__} P_4 “wo oto Pong Ya" =i on oo) rr) i= i =e Qa : ~~ == men ea tee’ 4-0" re oe rete ‘ C2) | RY eacara deny a cas ce od = eer, ear COLD STORAGE _ | i 1-75 Gwe IN Ke = H SSS 1 as H ome rome | — " ome Me ci hl i Heat O-S ae TT ‘sed — 7 se-0" SYMBOL r\ Tre + SECTION HO SHEET NO. : « ) <woow MARK GMUEENIONE INV OLOgLInOuY SCLVICOSSV NOIGIC 18a MHLUON F-8 64 KS ! x Sa) i ' N + 2) (id = : N 4 is 5 e V7 "eAL f ey, H tt awe onic ta feonReec | WSStES NTN eRe \ otf Le | ee 1 @ 0. } | tg a4 AE " : (-@— . zs 4 EE ath ul NJ 28-201 17 iG = I, Aw %) Aaa nz ws —) Miborer = r | on CE] xe a brunecue I ae Sa ES aS Galt ae eee ce : = TH 29 ‘bns NO ee x i Nusa uae . ake ini Sey 1 asa. Tocom:7 » Oe Hg X57 APPENDIX G CONSERVATION MEASURES IN BOROUGH HOUSING AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS INFORMATION PRESENTED IN THIS APPENDIX WAS OBTAINED FORM U.S. GOVERNMENT CIRCULARS, THE CITY OF RICHLAND, WA AND OTHERS. IT IS PRE- SENTED HERE FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES TO EN- HANCE THE VALUE OF THE REPORT TO THE SPONSOR. Electrical Consumption for Common Appliances, Edison Home Appliance Operating Cost City Utilities of Springfield In the Bank. . . . or up the Chimney? Department of Housing and Urban Development Tips for Energy Savers U.S. Department of Energy The Mizer System 0i1 Johnson Controls, Inc. Quanta System Circulation Fans Burtec Instrument Corp. Nautlus, Heat Recycler G-1 2-9 Item Fluorescent lighting Furance filters Microwave cooking Slow cookers Television TABLE G-1. Energy Saving Devices Description Circlite, General Electric Co. Dust stops Low wattage cooking pots Black and white, tube type, black and white solid state color, tube type Use Replace incandesent lighting using circlite fixtures these fit existing standard indandesent fixutres. Original replacement of light and ballast about $13.00 each. Ballast rated for about 50,000 hours. Light to use rated at 10x incandesent bulbs and estimated cost of replacement $1.50-$2.00. Replace frequently increased pressure drop from partly clogged filters decreases heated air volume, increasing fuel and electrical consumption. Typically, the furance fan will use 290 watts/hour. Complete meals may be prepared rapidly with reduced energy consumption. Some newer models have variable power settings from as low as 90 watts to a high of 625 watts, 110-120 volts AC. Microwave power requirement compared to other commonly used applicances are: Roaster 1333 Hotplate 1257 Deep fat fryer 1448 Television B&W 150-55 Frying pan 1196 Older microwaves 1200-1500 Complete meal preparation may be accomplished using these appliances. Typically these devices use from 50-150 watts/hour. Low Heat Typical Cooking and Cost @$0.15/kWh Stew, 3 qts, low, 8-10 hours = 12-15¢ Stew, chicken, 3 1/2 qts 7-12 hours = 11-15¢ Ribs, 2 1/2 qts 4-servings, 6-10 hours = 9-15¢ Roast, 3-4 Ib, 6-8 hours = 9-12¢ Pot roast and vegetables 3-4 lb, 7-10 hours = 11-15¢ Entertainment, 150 watts/hr = 2¢/hour Entertainment, 55 watts/hr = 1¢/hour Entertainment, 300 watts/hr = 5¢/hour Entertainment, 200 watts/hr 3¢/hour €-9 Item TABLE G-1. Description Energy Saving Devices Use Electrical outlet and switch draft stops Fan, air circulating Fan, air circulation Furnace automatic flu damper Preformed plastic foam pads under decorative covers. Nautius heat recycler Quanta system, Mode? 410H Mizer system oil. Penn Division, Johnson Controls, Inc. Reduces drafts or cold air that is infiltrating through the exterior wall mounted electrical system outlets and switches. Retail price $2.00/prackage of 9-outlet and 3-switch draft stops. Circulates the stratified hot air near the ceiling to floor level. Floor to ceiling temperatures typically very 10-159F. These units draw hot air from the ceiling and return it to the floor reducing the ceiling/floor temperature difference to around 4-5°F. Two units would be needed for the living, dining, and kitchen area. Electrical demand is 8-watts/unit or 16 watts/hour. Total operating cost/2¢ hours = 3¢ and should reduce heating fuel consumption. Estimated cost/unit $22.00. Brochure attached in Appendix. Same as above but intended for large open buildings with up to 18 foot ceilings. Suggest use: school gyms, auditorium, large open office spaces and nonpart partioned buildings. Estimated cost/$350. Manufactures quoted fuel savings of 30-40. Electrical demand 250 watts/hour or 4¢/hour of operation. Automatic flu dampers for installation of forced air oi] and gas furnace systems. Operation: when furnace shuts off, the flu damper automatically closes retaining the heat in the furace plenum chamber for radiation into the forced air plenum system. Manufactures quoted fuel savings (approx imate ly) Gas furnaces: 15% 0i1 forced air: 11% Cost iron boiler and hydraulic systems: 19-20% Estimated Installed Cost Attached brochure in Appendix. Nac HOME APPLIANCE OPERATING COSTS Electric home appliances have become a way of life. The chart below shows representative wattage ratings and monthly operating costs. The cost figures are based on an average usage at approximately 2.4¢ per kilowatt-hour of use. Est. Kilowatt- hours Cost Average Consumed Per Appliance Wattage Monthly Month Air Conditioner (12,000 8TU window unit; operational cost based on an average of four months per yr.)....2,000 445 $10.68 Bed Covering ........ a bee 12 28 Broiler ....... . 1,436 12 .28 Carving Knife Fe |) 3a 1 02 Clock. scmsse.s oe 2 2 05 Clothes Dryer . 4,856 100 2.40 Coffee Maker . 894 9 21 Cooker (egg) . we S16 1 02 Deep Fat Fryer . 1,448 o 3 Dehumidifier . a | eae! 32 76 Oishwasher .. bad shan clolar+ Be 2On 30 a2 Fan (attic) ...... pen O00) 24 or Fan (circulating) ; 88 4 .09 Fan (furnace) ..... 292 33 79 Fan (roll-about) .... 171 12 28 Fan’ (window) 200 14 34 Floor Polisher . 305 1 .02 Food Blender . 386 1 02 Food Freezer (Frostless 15 cu. ft.) aesu 440 147 3.53 Food Freezer (15 cu. ft.) . 341 100 2.40 FOO MAIKO Gotten cu wens sine 1 02 Food Waste Disposer . a .07 Frying Pan ..... 16 38 Germicidal Lamp . 12 29 Grill (sandwich) . 3 07 Fale DIVO ote snses 4 1 02 Heat Lamp (infrared) 1 02 Heating Pad ....... 1 02 Hot Plate esas. 8 19 Humidifier . lalate 14 34 Iron (hand) ...... 12 .29 Iron (mangle) ....... 13 31 Oil Burner or Stoker . 34 82 Baio is esi emas since a e wlth Radio — Phonograph . : 9 22 HBOS) eels sot paisa ura sieias 4 120 2.88 Refrigerator 2 CUED) oth 5 eta s merrSeicies 241 61 1.46 Est. FF Kilowatt- hours Cost Average Consumed Per Appliance Wattage Monthly Month Refrigerator (Frostiess 12 cu. It.) ...... 321 101 2.42 ecnicusceambas Refrigerator-Freezer heer 326 110 2.64 Refrigerator-Freezer (Frostless 14 cu. ft.) ...... 615 182 3.65 Roaster ....... eta esiglas 1,333 17 41 r Sewing Machine ........... 75 1 02 Shavet ziss «ames ees 14 2 05 Sun Lamp ee «s | 27g) 1 02 Television (B & W)... . 237 30 ue Television (color) 332 42 1.01 Toaster 4 cee Fao 3 .07 Vacuum Cleaner .. -- 630 4 10 Waffle Iron ae seers itt tG) 2 05 Washing Machine (Automatic) .. sseiaaae | SIZ 3 .22 Washing Machine (Non-Automatic) ie | eo 6 14 Water Heater (standard) . 2,475 352 8.45 r Water Heater 1 (quick recovery) sagas 43474 401 9.62 | Water Heater, with | automatic washer (family | of 4, quick recovery) ..... 4,474 500 12.00 Water, PUMP: ses 6 am as cna as 460 19 46 nd Other Booklets Available From NES sg e@ Conserve Energy by using your Electricity Efficiently e Stop Shock — Electrical Safety at Home e Danger — High Voltage a e@ Heat Pump — The Energy Miser e Your Electric Meter and How To Read It e Installing Home Insulation “FE e Freezing Foods at Home e Preserving and Conserving e@ Use and Care of Your Electric Range e Your New Electric Clothes Dryer 13 Typical Wattage Estimated Kilowatt- Appliance Rating (Demand) Hour Consumption (KWH) Washing Machine 500 0.25 KWH per load (Automatic) Food Waste Disposer 0.08 KWH per day Trash Compactor O.1 KWH per load Freezer Frost Free 6.1 KWH per day Manual Defrost 4.5 KWH per day Fan Attic KWH per hour 0.4 Window 0.2 KWH per hour Blender 0.4 KWH per hour Television Color--Tube Type 0.3 KWH per hour Color--Solid State 0.2 KWH per hour Black & White--Tube Type 0.15 KWH per hour Black & White--Solid State 0.06 KWH per hour Dehumidifier 1.0 KWH per day Hedge Trimmer 0.25 KWH per hour Electric Blanket 1 KWH per night Stereo-Radio/Phonograph 0.15 KWH per hour Slow Cooker High 0.15 KWH per hour Low 7 0.08 KWH per hour Sewing Machine 0.75 KWH per hour Lights 0.1 KWH per hour 0.08 KWH per hour 0.06 KWH per hour 0.04 KWH per hour Clock 1.5 KWH per month These wattages are approximate. To find the exact wattage rating for your appliances, read the manufacturer's label found on all electrical appliances. To find the approximate cost of operating various appliances, consult the Energy Cost Guide in your Conservation Kit. ELECTRIC HOME APPLIANCES ESTIMATED DEMAND AND CONSUMPTION Typical Wattage Estimated Kilowatt- Appliance Rating (Demand) Hour Consumption (KWH) Range: Self-cleaning 4,000 .O KWH per’ clean Standard Oven 3,200 KWH per hour Broiler 3,600 -8 KWH per half hr. Large Surface Unit 2,400 KWH per hour Small Surface Unit 1,300 .3 KWH per hour Possible Total 12,000 3 KWH per day Central Air Conditioner: 3-ton 6,000 - per hour Others 2,000/ton s per hour Window/room Air Conditioner (12,000 Btu = 1 ton) 2,000/ton 2.0 KWH per hour (for each 'ton') Clothes Dryer 5,000 3.7 KWH per load Water Heater 4,500 13.2 KWH per day Microwave Oven 1,500 1.5 KWH per hour Electric Frying Pan 1,200 1.2 KWH per hour Toaster 1,200 0.04 KWH per serving Waffle Iron 1,200 0.05 KWH per waffle Dishwasher 1,200 1 KWH per load Wash Cycle 0.53 KWH per load Dry Cycle 0.47 KWH per load Hair Blower 1.0 KWH per hour Hand Iron 1.0 KWH per hour Coffee Maker 0.2 KWH per pot Furnace Blower Motor 0.8 KWH per hour Vacuum Cleaner 650 0.65 KWH per hour Refrigerator/Freezer Frost Free 600 Manual Defrost 300 9 ENERGY MANAGEMENT CITY UTILITIES % SPRINGFIELD PO SOK 531 © JEWEL STANON © SPemarHLO © missoUR © 6580! — , BETTER POWER AWARENESS How much electricity do you use! The average Northwest residential consumer uses approxi- mately 14,000 kilowatt hours per year. A 7 per cent reduction would be almost 1,000 kilowatt hours per resident, or 2 billion kilowatt hours in the region. APPROXIMATE WATTAGE RATING, AND ESTIMATED ANNUAL KWHR CONSUMPTION OF ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES--ASSUMING NORMAL LOAD Est. kwh Appliance Average Wattage Consumed Annually Air Conditioner (window) 1,566 1,389 Blanket (electric) 177 147 Broiler 1,436 100 Carving Knife 92 8 Clock 2 Le Clothes Dryer 4,856 993 Coffee Maker 894 106 Cooker (egg 516 14 Deep Fat Fryer 1,448 83 Dehumidifier 257 oe ft Dishwasher 1,201 363 Fan (attic) 370 291 Fan (circulating) 88 43 Fan (furnace) 292 394 Fan (roll-about) AL 38 Fan (window) 200 170 Floor Polisher 305 1S Food Blender 386 15 Food Freezer (15 cu ft) 341 1,195 Food Freezer (Frostless 15 cu ft) 440 1,76] Food Mixer 127 S Z Food Waste Disposer 445 30 Frying Pan 1,196 186 Germicidal Lamp 20 141 Grill (sandwich) 1,161 Ss Hair Dryer 381 14 Heat Lamp (infrared) 250 LS Heat Pump 11,848 16,003 Heater (radiant) 1,322 176 Heating Pad 65 10 ice ee Est. kwh Appliance Average Wattage Consumed Annually Hot Plate 1,257 90 Humidifier U7 163 Iron (hand) 1,088 144 Iron (mangle) 1,494 158 Oil Burner or Stoker 266 410 Radio tals 86 Radio-photograph 109 109 Range 12,207 1,175 Refrigerator (12 cu ft) 241 728 Refrigerator (Frostless 12 cu ft) s2i Lely, Refrigerator-Freezer (14 cu ft) 326 1,137 Refrigerator-Freezer (Frostless 14 cu ft) 6S 1,829 Roaster 1333 205 Sewing Machine 75 gp Shaver 14 18 Sun Lamp 279 16 Television (B&W) 237, 362 Television (color) 332 502 Toaster 1,146 39 Tooth Brush 7 5 Vacuum Cleaner 630 46 Vibrator 40 2 Waffle Iron I ks 22 Washing Machine (Automatic) Sug 103 Washing Machine (Non-automatic) 286 76 Water Heater (Standard) 2.405 4,219 Water Heater (Quick Recovery) 4,474 4,811 Water Pump 460 231 The above data have been obtained through the averaging of replies from sales executives representing more than 49 electric light and power companies. No endeavor has been made to qualify most of the items by size, geographical use, etc., which are circumstances that must be taken into consideration where more specific data are required. Edison Electric Institute June 1969 1OW QUANTA 410’s WORK -->- oe ver-heated ceiling ir is thoroughly yixed with cooler air om all levels. The over-heated ceiling air now mixed with the cooler air returns as an even comfort temp- erature throughout the building. | Cool floor air is blown up at \ «—— high velocity : drawing air at all levels into its stream. No drafts— added worker comfort at all time-makes for increased efficiency. he Quanta 410 ikes cool floor ir through here. AND HOW THEY SAVE YOU 30-40% ON YOUR COSTLY This trapped ceiling heat, if not returned to worker level, is lost through the ceiling— a costly waste. THE QUANTA 470 Eliminates this heat loss— returns it to worker level giving “extra mileage” to your already heated air— saving you 30—40% on your heating costs. LEADING THE FIELD AS A FUEL SAVER TO INDUSTRY the country report the greater heating efficiency in their plants with the Quanta air-mix system. Added features give improved worker performance. The Quanta offers a new and better way to cut ever-rising fuel costs for industrial and commercial buildings. Our customers throughout CPT Ea — SSSA ae TT CAE T ay eee a CALCULATE THE SAVINGS IN YOUR PLANT Using the graph below you can estimate the probable savings of fuelin your plant. The data is presented for a typical 1 storey industrial building. From your own data you know the cost per 1000 sq. feet anc can adjust the information accordingly. COMPARE THE QUANTA SYSTEM WITH OVERHEAD FANS ENERGY REQUIREMENT WITH AND WITHOUT 410 One Quanta 410 to 4500 sq. {l.room 3 Overhead Fans To 4500 sq fl room 60 Normat Industrial Building 20 It Coiling per 1000 sq it” —————— _— a teolh lela TK ANIA Quanta 410 High Velocily upward Alr Stream Homogenizes To keep the working area warm, air must be overheated so that there will be sufficient hot air above the warm air to keep the warm air down to worker level. Any attempt to bring this hot air down only results in it immediate- ly returning to the ceiling. The 410 does not move hot air down. It blows air up at a high velocity to induce large volumes of air to mix with the main stream Three Overhead Fans Blow Hol Air Down to Return to Ceiling al all levels. This produces a truly homogeneous temperature so thal there is no hol air to rise. Overhead fans attempt to move hot air down and are only effective in so far as this produces mixing. The overhead fan approaches this condition only when operated at full speed and then the wind on the workers is intolerable. Quanta 410 blows upward and does the mixing above the worker level. OVER-WORKED FURNACES CAN BE COSTLY Repairs to equipment, Including the furnace, run Into big liguros loday. By roducing tho cul-in cul- oul Iroquency, furnace woar-and- loar is minimized coupled with lowered fuel consumption. Con- trols ‘ara done away with on a Quanta... It works day In and day oul—unallondod. AIR IS STRATIFIED IN MOST BUILDINGS Air remains in dull, unmoving strala if not mixed and moved or cir- culated. Our tests show ceiling lemperaluros 20 degroes or more higher than the thermostat setting. With Quanta, these dead layers or masses of over-healed air al the ceiling are broken up, mixed with cool floor air and brought down as new-lound lively warm air. Thermosial setting 65°F 50 -- 40 -}- 30 + 20-4 1,000's 8 T U per nour 10 -- o | |. } t t 50 40 30 20 Outside Temperature °F 700 |. 600 500 400 300 200 S per neating\season per\1000 sq tt | | Ll 100 T t . 10 Oo “10 -20 The difference between the two lines is the saving in energy per 1001 sq. feet for a normal industrial building. Dollars per heating season ar typical at current fuel prices and ina building using night and weekenc temperature setbacks. TRY THIS TEST IN YOUR OWN PLANT With your thermostat al its normal temporaluro sollings and using several thermometers, check al floor and Coiling at various time in- tervals. Also note furnace cul-in frequency. Undoubtedly your test will show uneven lemperaturos, cool and uncomfortable periods at the working level . . . possible over- working of the furnace with ceiling air over-healed and trapped. HEATING NOW A MAJOR COST IN OVERHEAD Heating costs are escalating with no relief in sight. Quanta puts the brake on and reverses rising fuel costs. They also feature a more pleasant working almosphere. NO COSTLY INSTALLATION UNITS ARE PLUGGED IN Quanta 410's go to work instant! thoy are pluggod into existing out lots. Froe-standing, lake up Milli spaco, and easily moved whe required. : No costly wiring and installation, ni controls to set on Quanta, they ar: trouble-free, run day and night a little operating cost (%¢ per hr. pe unit). AN IMPROVED PROFIT PICTURE FROM SAVINGS Overhead costs, as never belore are being minutely examined Ic every posible saving. Reducin heating costs by 30—40% can b the difference between an over ¢ under budget year-end. Mone saved is profit earned. HERE I$ YOUR ASSURANCE QF QUANTA 410’s HIGHER RETURN ON INVESTMENT OVER ANY OTHER HEAT RECOVERY SYSTEM Against savings Payoff in in heating fuel Your initial outlay in Quanta 410’s investment This is our assurance to you of the proven performance of Quanta. Many of our clients have switched from their present systems to Quants, solving the problem of costly heat losses. With an initial low capital investment and drastic cut in heating costs the Quanta 410 has proven results in 12 to 15 months. Let us show you how a Quanta system in your plant cuts your heating fuel bills. YOUR QUANTA AIR-MIX CIRCULATORS WORK YEAR-ROUND—WINTER & SUMMER Heating costs for the past few winters show a lengthening heating season, seven to nine months (Sept. to May). Records indicate less than 40% of the yearly fuel supply being used over January and February, the balance being used in the remaining months. Fuel costs are now among the top high outlays in a yearly operation. With Quanta’s air-mix principal, .a more comfortable, airy working atmosphere is achieved over the summer months as well. Moving summer air has a cooling effect. OD aaa TEST AFTER TEST IN ALL TYPES OF BUILDINGS PROVE CONCLUSIVELY THE SUPERIOR PERFORMANCE OF QUANTA 410’s The following graph shows results of an actual test (details on request) in which the operation ol ceiling fans was Compared to the efficiency of Quanta 410s. As the graph shows, 10 ceiling fans al full speed reduce the temperature by only 6°F, i.e., from 95° to 89°F, whereas the 7 Quanta 410s achieve twice the results: 12°F (from 95° to 83°F). No other system Can achieve such results. The Quanta 410 gives more for much less. 100"F No Fans of Quanta 4110's Operating ser ee, . «By \ aa \ *, \ santo 7 X04 ON, 90¢F \ See tray : *4,.75 Operating at Full Speed \ on ‘9 \ THOePeeeeeereeseressereereroreens \ \, \ ser “s7 70 = oC Ww, ‘~, wanta 410's Operating Oe tec esc em cmrcememcencemtancanse © % bor 0 (Time) 10 min 20 min 30 aula, 40 min HOW MANY QUANTA 410's ARE REQUIRED HEATING COSTS REDUCED EVEN IN COOLEST AREAS We undertook a test in an unusually ‘cold’ plant. Our client could not re- tain a proper heat level in his building. With Quanta 410 plugged in, in minutes the floor temperature rose from 58 to 64 degrees, the Ceiling reading dropped from 81 to 69 degrees, A constant movement of relreshing air followed and con- tinued throughout the building. Another heat-loss problem was solved by Quanta. A Quanta 410 is rated for 4500 sq. ft. in an 18° ceiling building (80,000 cu. ft.). Units are effective for ceilings of 12° to 40’ and are so engineered to move and mix all the air in that area in under 30 minutes. (CET ‘ quanta Our skilled factory-trained experts are at your service to provide an In- plant survey without Cost to you. RES eerS reek Le sae +See 2 PS PLD, OSI (TE BP IDET RE OT ES Sees IF RELIABILITY Is BulLT InTO QUANTA 410’s TO WORK TROUBLE-FREE YEAR 'ROUND—WINTER & SUMMER. Specifications a 410H 410S Horsepower 1/4 hp 1/6 hp “ Fan diameter 16" 16" | RPM 1725 RPM 1140 RPM Velocity 1500 FPM 950 FPM Volume 2850 CFM 1800 CFM Coverage area 4500Sa. Ft. 4000 Sa. Ft. Ceiling height 18 Ft. 15 Ft. Maximum effective ceiling height 40 Ft. Zo hte | Decibels at 5 Ft. 73 dBa 62 dBa Electrical requirements 110 volts 60 Hz | 110 volts 60 Hz Operating watts 250 W 200 W Size 22"x22"x60" 22"'x22"x60" Weight 100 Ibs 100 Ibs. 10’ heavy-duty electrical cord-grounded, 3-prong plug fits all standard receptacles. Warranty One Year (parts and labour) Note: Heavy guage steel construction Canadian made—to last. Special units are available to meet unusual and exceptional conditions. Phone (416) 625-4838 or write: QUANTA SYSTEMS LIMITED. 1260 Fewster Drive, Mississauga, Ontario L4W 1A4 BOURTEC prtamexte iran eee SALES DEPARTMENT P.O. BOX 229 DELMAR, N.Y. 12054 PHONE (518) 439-7197 Mr R G Moles Re: Your Enquiry to New Equipment Digest About the new Quanta Air Destratifiers Enclosed is our brochure about the QUANTA 410 and its ability to save up to 40% of your heatimg cost. With instant plug-in floor-level operation and low investment per square foot, pay-back is generally one year and almost always less than two. Basically, these efficient continuously operated units stand on the floor - randomly located convenient to outlets - and blow the cold floor air upwards at high velocity to the ceiling where it mixes with the hot air. This rapidly brings ceiling temperatures to floor thermostat settings with NO drafts or down-winds. The effect is comparable to setting back the air temperature above working levels by your present temperature difference. If this is 20°F, as is often found, the saving is comparable to setting back your temperature almost eighteen degrees. Even a 5°F difference (on warmer days) means savings. You feel the effect in minutes. You see the effect in fuel savings ngs by comparing consumption in therms or gallons with previous bills. Delivery is immediate from Buffalo inventory so you start benefiting the week after you place the ordér. Remembér¢ “installation” is only plugging them in. We have as yet no distributor for your area. This has advant- ages and disadvantages. The advantages are that your cost buying directly is less and you will be working with the most knowledgable people in the field - long in experience and accurate in their statements. You can be guarantéed:asavings to a specific amount after a plant survey on a money-back hasiscandé rental or trial arrangements can be made which we find many of our dealers are reluctant to offer. MAIN OFFICE: 6168 SEMINOLE BLVD. - LARGO, FLORIDA 33540 - PHONE (813) 391-8850 The direct cost to you is $350.00 for each unit fob our warehouse Niagara Falls NY. The unit usually recommended is the 410H . (see data on the back page of the brochure) and one is required for each 80,000 cubic feet of space (4000 square feet, for instance, if ceiling height is 20'). The disadvantages are that you will not be visited personally unless initial conversations by telephone and size of installation require it, and that a plant survey normally made by the dealer must be made by yourselves. But we have already worked out other installations satisfactorily by telephone and letter. If you would like to ask for a survey , write or telephone collect. Before you call, you might, as an initial step, send someone up a ladder with an ordinary thermometer and leave it there for ten minutes to get your first temperature reading. Let us know this temperature, chest-level temperature, outside temperature (another ten minutes), wind (guess accurately if wind-speed is zero, 5, 10,15 or 20 mph), and current weather at time of temperature reading (sunny, cloudy, raining, and how much snow is on your roof). With this information and a comment or two about your heaters - particularly if overhead - we can give you a quick opinion about fuel savings you can obtain and whether you should take a more complete survey. Sometimes, the above data is enough - particularly if one or two units only are needed. Our company is, incidentally, still actively managed by the scientist who founded his group of companies 35 years ago and we got into the fuel-saving market-place when we moved a laboratory into a building with, to our dismay, floor temperatures of 60°F and ceiling temperatures of 90°F. After researching the problem as we normally do for clients, one of our physicists solved the problem with the first Quanta. Please @&j-us collect; the Quanta units regularly save fuel by twenty to thirty percent and with the right (ar should that be “wrong") circumstances frequently save that ultimate forty percent. Yours truly Burtec Instrument Corporation — setae ( James C. O'Neill, Sales Manager Johnson Conirols announces a worny companion to The Mizer System-Gas. ABNORMAL OPERATION: Thermostat cclls for heat, dam- per begins to open. If thermostat is jiggied and con- tacts breck momentarily curing the opening sequence, the damper will open. then close. and try again for cn uninier- rupted sequence. Only an uninterrupied sequence will allow energizing of the oil burner primery control system. AY MODULE “sue eae Damper is wide open, and bummer flame is on. If c power ouiage occurs, damper re- mains open but burner flame goes out. When power is resumed, the oil burner stays off and damper closes. If thermostat still calls for heat, normal cycle will take ploce. FEATURES: The Mizer is the only fuel-cil conservetion unit that has all these importont feciures. %* Easy wiring-no wires bréken in the oil burner primary conirol-no splices. * Oil burner primery control contacts are left intact to energize the oil burner motor and ignition coil. * Ignition is energized only when the damper is in the full open position. * The Mizer system hes full contoct weld protection opening the cemper in the remote event of any con- toct weld. % Damper opens if the thermostat is wired cirectly to the primary control. 34tiC VENT DAMPER VIZER RELAY MODULE This well construcied unit was designed to provide convenient and easy wiring connec- tions. No fumbling with splices, no guessing where to make wire connections, and no wosted insicilation time. its hect resistent body permits longer operating life, elimi- nctes unwonted service calls and gains sctis- fied customers. Acting os the monitor for the oil burner control, this Relay will not let the burners ignite uniil the domper is fully opened. It’s designed for both line voltage and low voltage Gnd furnace or boiler applications. Of course, it’s UL. Listed. Rigid, heavy gauge siainless steel makes inis Comper extremely Curable yet light weight for easy shipping and handling. The fied Camper top offers quick and proper insiclla- tion because there's no need to figure out which end is up. Operating in conjunction wiih ihe relay module, the damper motor sends a signal when the damper is fully opened, permitting ihe oil burners io ignite. Also, like the reloy module, wiring has been simplified. The domper and motor opercie in @ 360° one way roiction. This cllows the motor fo be energized only to open and close the dcemper and therefore it does not con- tinuously draw curent. Dampers are monufociured in 4", 5", 67,7", 8", 9",10", and 12" sizes. MIZER CABLES The Mizer System—Oil comes standard with a 48” cable for interconnecting the relay mod- ule to the oil primary control ond o 96" cable to interconnect the relcy module to the o ERS . damper motor. 48” and 96” lengths of reloy mocule to damper moior cable are avail- able as add-on when adaitional reach is re- quired. So FehM-Oll Anoiner energy saver from JGHNSON CONTRELS Control Products Division 2221 Camden Coun, Oak Grook, Ib 60521 USTED Primed in L Johnson Controls, inc. Control Products Division 1302 E. Monroe S1 Goshen, IN 66526 Series Q18 Retrofit Automatic Vent Damper System For Oil Fired Appliances Application This energy saving automatic vent damper system is designed for installation by a qualified heating equipment installer. It is used on automatically operated oil fired heating equipment only. The energy saving automatic vent damper system prevents heated air from wastefully going up the open vent when the appliance is not operating. It consists of a vent camper relay, a damper assembly, a damper operator and two wiring harnesses. This automatic vent damper system is io be used only with oil burner primary controls which sense the presence of combustion by temperature or light from the oil flame. Do not use on appliances which are only equipped with an oil level float control, such as those using vaporizing burners, or on appliances which employ a constantly burning pilot. Operation The damper operator opens and closes the vent damper upon demand of the room thermostat. The damper must be fully open before the oil burner control is energized through the vent DAMPER SLADE SLADE POSITION INDICATOR Fig. 2— View of damper assembly showing damper blade position indicator. damper relay. The visible Pointer between the damper assembly and the damper operator indicates ihe damper blade position. See Fig. 2 for pointer location. CAUTION: This vent damper assembly must be used only on automatically operated oil fired appliances. Normal Sequence of Operation 1. Thermostat contacts close on call for heat. 2. Damper operator is energized through ihe vent damper relay and damper will be fully open in 15 seconds. 3. Proof of damper being fully open is provided to the vent camper relay, closing the relay contacts end providing power to the oil burner primary control. 4. Oil burner primary control cperates the oil burner in the usual manner. If the oil fails to ignite, the oil burner primary control locks out on safety after the specified time delay period, and the vent damper will not close. Manually resetting ihe safety circuit of the oil burner control causes an immediate attempt at re-ignition. 5. When the thermostat is satisfied, the thermostat contacts open and power is removed from the oil burner control. 6. The damper rotates to the closed position. Damper operator is de-energized. 7. The system is ready for the next heating cycle. SERIES Y15 Vent Damper, a¥"! In Y ove Oamper —~ Operator po va NY \ pf SERIES RIEL \ ‘I Vent Damper a / Relay WIRING HARNESS Fig. 1— Series Q18 Vent Oamper System. Power Inierruption Sequence Power interrupted, damper closed. 1. With no power available, the oil burner primary control will remain de-energized and the appliance will not light. 2. When the power is restored, the oil damper control system will function in normal sequence. Power interrupted, damper opening. 1. Damper movement will stop and the appliance will not light. 2. When power is restored, the damper will continue to the fully open position. a. The damper will then return io closed position and then rotate once again to open position. d. The oil burner control contacts will close, initiating the normal ignition sequence. Power interrupted, damper open, appliance on. 1. Appliance oil flame will extinguish. 2. When power is restored, the damper returns to closed position and continues running to open position. CPTIONSL POSITION PERMITTED Fig. 3— Drawings of typical installations showing permitted positions to mount the operator. 3. Normal sequence resumes. Power interrupted, damper closing. 1. Appliance is not on. 2. When power is restored: a. If thermostat is calling for heat, the.damper will run through the closed position to the open position and the appliance will be energized. b. If thermostat is not calling for heat, the damper will close. Appliance remains off. Refer to oil burner primary control and applience instructions for ignition end burner operation. Installation All installations must comply with local codes (check with Municipal Authorities for compliances). The system must be insialled by a qualified installer. Automatic vent or chimney connector dampers are intended for installation in accordance with the following Standards of the National Fire Protection Association: 1. Oil Burning Equipment, NFPA No. 31. 2. Chimney, Fireplaces end Vents, NFPA No. 211. 3. Nationa! Electrical Code, NFPA No. 70. Before attempting to install the auiomatic vent damper sysiem, perform the saiely inspection on the existing appliance 2s follows: 1, mun appiuance inrougn an operating cycle to be sure it is operating properly. 2. Visually inspect the venting system for proper size and horizontal pitch and determine that there is no blockage or restriction, leakage, corrosion, etc., which could cause en unsafe condition. 3. Shut off system. Applicable only to furnaces - 4. Inspect heat exchanger for cracks, openings or excessive corrosion. 5. Check both the limit control and fan control for proper operation. Applicable only to boilers - 6. Inspect for evidence of waier leaks. 7. Place eppliance in operation and observe that it is operating properly. a. Determine that the waier pumps are operational. b. Test low water cutoffs, automatic feed controls, high pressure limit controls, high temperature limit controls and relief valves to determine that they are operating. CAUTION: Turn off electrical power to the appliance at the disconnect swiich. Allow vent to cool to a safe temperature. Ine Gamper @ssemvuly musi ve installed in the vent connecior which vents only the oil fired applignce to which the damper assembly is electrically connected. (See Fig. 4.) This damper assembly must not be used with a direct vent (sealed combustion system) appliance. Mounting Mount the automatic vent demper system as follows: CAUTION: Each appliance must have a separate vent damper system. if a water heater or other appliance is vented into the furnace (or boiler) vent piping, the vent damper must be in the furnace side of the vent piping. The vent damper must not block venting of the water heater or other appliance. (See Fig. 4.) 1. Install the damper assembly in the vent pipe with direction of flow arrow pointed away from appliance in a position that is accessible. Install on chimney side of the barometric damper. Secure with sheet metal screws. Do not use a smaller vent pipe size to fit the vent damper. The vent damper must fit the existing vent pipe size. 3. Mount the damper assembly with clearances not less than 12 inches from combustible materials in a location where the damper position indicator is clearly visible. oom FROM OTHER —J DAMPER FROM OTHER a DAMPER / OPERATOR PPLIENCES OPERATOR wh WIRING Bel ee HAR, \UHARNESS BaromeTRic_]_C- BAROMETRIC. C. DAMPER — STRAI DAMPER — ae ) con -——' | iJ < al 4 RIG RIG VENT é pawecR J cLMPER RELAY — Ww Fig. 4 — Drawing of typical wiring harness installation. Left — Installed inside appliance jacket. Right — Installed outside appliance jacket. pe ar, mae Me IDLE UGHepee Eeeerery oe the operator will be on the vent damper relay is 140°F side of the stack. When (60°C). damper assembly cannot be in the vertical position, mount 5. Before mounting the damper so operator will be within +15° operator to the vent damper of the horizontal position. assembly, make certain the damper blade rotates freely See Fig. 3 for typical in the vent pipe. positions. The Series M15, Y15 is UL listed for 1000°F (538°C) 6. Mount the damper operator to maximum flue gas temperature. the bracket on ihe damper The maximum ambient assembly with the screws uy Le series vis (KOT) + VENT CAMPER | $ SERIES MIS HIGH VENT D&MPER LIMIT 9 | OPERATOR | | | SEE NOTE #2. TYPE Y8&¢ —— \ WIRING HARNESS 4D ORANGE *WIRE / ORANGE /WHITE NUT GREEN \ = \ Wh RED(2) i] D WHITE (1) = = x 8 S| tyre yeeaco < 3 SIWIRING HSRNESS Fs 3 al (SEE NOTE #1) yl OIL SURNER CONTROL * CAUTION. Keep enc of Orange/White wire covered. LB wl 120 volts cre present when domper is open. ‘ THERMOSTAT i€S RIG VENT MPER RELAY Z Note #1: White Wire — to W(T) of oi! burner primary control Red Wire — to R(T) of oil burner primary control Black Wire — to C of oil burner primary conirol Blue Wire — insert wire from W of thermostat Yeilow Wire — insert wire from R of thermostat OApon— Lines 1 and 2—Route to W(T) and R(T) of oil burner primary control, or to T and T of oil burner primary control. Line 3—If air conditioning oil burner primary control model, connect to C of oil burner primary control. Do not remove existing leads to C. If no air conditioning, line not needed, cut off or tape. Lines 4 and 5— Remove thermostat wires from oil burner primary control and insert in respective butt splice. If no air conditioning, either thermostat wire may be inserted in either butt splice. (Lines 4 end S) Either tine 1 or 2 may be terminated on either W(T) and R(T) or T and T of oil burner primary control. Note =2: The white lead wire from the R16 should be connected to terminal =2 or to the white wire coming from oil burner control in the junction box. The same is true for the black and orange wires. Black wire from the R16 to terminal =1 or black wire in junction box. Orange wire to terminal =3 or orange wire in junction Dox. No connection is made to blue or yellow wire or terminal =4 of oil burner primary control. All wires are added to existing lines, no path between the oil burner primary control and the motor or ignition transformer should: be broken. Fig. 5 — Typical wiring diagram of vent damper system on oil burner installations with low voltage operation. bracket. The operator can be mounted with conduit hole at either end. Do not install on top side or under side of vent pipe. CAUTION: Do not force motor operation when operator is fastened to the damper assembly by moving the damper blade, turning the shaft or by turning the position indicator. Mount the Series R16 vent damper relay on the exterior or interior side wall of the appliance jacket. Do not mount on the interior (fire) wall. (See Fig. 4.) 8. Secure in place with screws or bolts through the three mounting feet. Wiring CAUTION: Disconnect electrical power supply before wiring controls into circuit to avoid electrical shock or possible damage to equipment. Install the two-plug wiring harness between the vent damper operator and the vent damper reitay. CAUTION: Keep wiring harness cable clear of all hot surfaces. a. Route the two-plug harness inside the appliance jacket when possible. (See Fig. 4, left.) b. Use conduit opening or provide holes. Use bushings to protect wiring from sharp edges. Type NM or Romex strain relief connectors are provided to secure wiring in the camper operator conduit hole and the damper relay conduit hole. 2. If wiring harness cannot be routed inside the appliance jacket, route outside and secure to eppliance jacket with cable clamps. (See Fig. 4, right.) Run wiring through conduit opening or provide a hole in cer Os Zz AQUASTAT E: Connect Glock wire from the RIG to Black wire in junction box. Connect wire from the RIG to White wire in junction box. onnect line voltage oil burner reley connection from 3, on cqucstot cnd connect to Cronge/White wire from the RIG. Connect Oronge wire from tne RIG to 8, on cquostat. a ™N LINE VOLTAGE CIRCULATOR SERIES RIG VENT CAMPER RELAY Fig. 6 — Typical wiring diagram of vent damper and triple function aquastat with high vollage operation. jacket near the oil burner primary control. Place connector receptacle end of iwo-plug harness through conduit hole in the damper operator case and plug into the damper operator plug. The connection must remain inside the enclosure. Secure wiring in place with the strain relief connector. Run connector plug end of two-plug harness through hole in appliance jacket and conduit opening in the Series R16 case. Plug connector plug end into the receptacle in the Series R16 and secure in place with the strain relief provided. Excessive wiring should be neatly stowed inside appliance jacket away from open flame and hot surfaces. Run plug end of wiring harness with plug and wiring terminals through remaining R16 vent damper relay conduit opening and plug into receptacle. Secure harness in place with the strain relief provided. Make wiring connections from the Series R16 to the thermostat and aquastat or oil burner control. ee CAUTION: Many boilers use an aquastat or a triple function aquastat control:to maintain boiler waiter temperature to heat domestic hot water. This temperature operaéted contact is usually in the line voltage circuit. If this condition exists, use the line voltage hookup. Make sure the damper opens before the burner starts only when the low limit aquastat contacts (domestic hot water contacts) call for heat. a. Low voltage hookup. Use the Y84ACD wiring harness 1) Remove plug from left conduit opening on top of the R16. 2) Remove the dummy plug from the receptacle inside the R16 case. 3) Place the plug end of the Y84ACD wiring harness through the conduit hole and plug into the receptacle. The connection must remain inside the R16 case. Secure harness in place with the strain relief connector. is Make wiring connections to 5 leads on other end of 10. 1. Fig. 5. Line voltage hookup. Wiring harness not required. NOTE: Do not remove the dummy plug inside the R16 case or the plug from the conduit hole. 1) Make wiring connections zs shown in Fig. 6. Carefully check entire installation and procedures to be sure they are in accordance with instructions and regulations. Turn on power supply to furnace and system is ready for checkout. IMPORTANT: After the unit is installed and wired, the furnace should be operated through at least three normal operating cycles. See Checkout Procedure. Checkout Procedure Before leaving the installation, observe three operating cycles, using the thermostat to see that all components are functioning Properly. itis Turn room thermostat to a high setting so the contacts close (call for heat). The damper operator opens the damper. The damper position can be cetermined by the white indicator between damper assembly and operator. (See Fig. 2.) When the damper is fully open, the burner will ignite. Appliance is operating in normal manner. Turn thermostat to a low ‘ setting to open the contacts. The burner will shut off and the damper operator closes the damper. For boilers with domestic hot water: Turn wall thermosiat to a low setting to open the contacts. Turn up @aquastat setting to make sure camper opens before burner ignites. 4. Return thermostat and @quastat to the normal setting. Warranty Card Warranty card should be compleied and returned to Johnson Controls, Inc. Repairs and Replacement Field repairs must not be made. Contact the qualified installer for service or replacement units. A qualified service agency should conduct an annual inspection of the flue product carrying areas, the vent system and the damper device from deterioration from corrosion and for safe operation by performing the checkout procedure as set forth in these instructions. More frequent inspections by the homeowner for corrosion and safe operation of the damper device in accordance with the checkout procedure are recommended. oe of Richland’s Dorl-yourselt OMe ry isul¢ aC i. Cul is fe SO JTable of Contents Introduction® ...0...4e: area sms ease ems Where to insulate... -c:cesw: asus wus Heat transfer comparison of building materials.............. How to insulate ceilings. How to insulate walls. . How to insulate floors... ............ Ventilation and vapor control... ....... Vapor barriers... 0.2.0... 0.0.00. c eee Insulation: A money and energy saver Summer In winter, insulation keeps your home from losing heal to the oulside and in summer it shields you from outside heat Many existing homes have mini- mum or no insulation. These homes waste enormous amounts of energy, have excessive annual utility bills, and are uncomfortable. This book will help you evaluate your present insulation and guide you in insulating those areas that are deficient. If you insulate your home to the standards recommended in this booklet, the benefits will be long- lasting and can result in significant money and energy savings. It is useful to review all chapters to see how the information may apply to your home. The chapter on vapor control, for example, is essential r rarctloee f tha ite ' Where fo insulate and recommended conservation siancdards walls R-18 All double glass Storm doors & weatherstripping 1 -F1o0r over ; vented crawl space A-19 Ground line Perimeter insulation (2" thick) R-19 floor over unheated basement Crawl space Slab on grade (vented) 6m FI ground cover Ground ling *See page 21, 22 lor optional insulation method Home insulation can be conveniently installed during construction, however, it can also be added lo completed buildings to improve their heat-holding ability. Adherence to the standards indicated above will save energy, enhance comfort and lower annual healing and cooling costs The standards include application of double glazing with respect to window openings and installation of storm doors and proper wealherstripping throughout the structure. *Note: We recommend an R-18 in walls for new construction, however, we recog- nize with an existing structure it may not be possible to install this amount of insulation. Meat transfer comparisons of Building Niaterials How good an insulator is concrete? Building fell? Asphalt tile? The lable below compares these and other common building materials to “heat-slopping” qualilics of standard insulation. (HI 61 thicknesses of building felt (MII 6 thicknesses of 1/2” drywall ee icore SS WS 3-1/2" of wood As an example II Il lI l| 34" of brick The following lable lists he approximate "R"* values of common building materials: Insulation board Building board sbestos cement board 03 _ 25/32" liber sheathing 2.06 Expanded vermiculite Ball insulation Felt building paper 06 Flooring paemboCaly Ser eral Rooling (normal thicknesses) Fell floor “Linoleum 08 _ Hardwood s/a" 8 Masonry _ 08 eatioudl aldingh Pee ~ 8" concrete blocks ~ 1.00 Wood "pumice blocks 200 | ~ Hardwood perioch a Brick, per inch — i ~ Soltwood, per inch 4.25 *The A value of a building material shows the heat stopping abilily of tho product. The qreater the R number the areater the insulating vahie Ads How io insulate ceilings | Additional tools + CEILING Goggles Mask (oF respirator) Materials and tools required A Beaty ret By anae Sa 0 ea Asatte) Rake or push broom ~~ Measuring sticks ae Wood plank 4. Additional tools For applying loose fill Ordinary rake or push broom Measurement sticks 18" high Goggles (to protect eyes) Stapling llange 2. For applying blowing insulation : Do-it-yourself blowing machine Do-it-yourself ; (One of the easiest ways to insulate insulation materials a ceiling is to blow in loose fill material with a blowing machine for do-it-yourself work. These are _ available on a loan or rental basis.) Goggles 3. For applying batt or blanket insulation Tape measure Soll lead pencil 1. Blankets or batts (i.e. mineral wool or fiberglass batts, either unfaced or faced) 2. Loose fill, pouring or blowing i material (i.e. mineral wool, j vermiculile or cellulose). Loose fill Basic tools you'll need for any insulation job: Face mask or respirator Sharp knife Wooden planks (to walk on in attic) Portable light and extension cords Gloves ™ Attach to bottom of ceiling joist ¥ | AX - “Mow fo order insulation Preparation Because so much heal is lost through the ceiling, “The City of Richland” suggesls that insulation value of “R-30"", or more, be installed in the ceiling When ordering insulation from your building supply dealer, provide him with the following information: 1. The total square footage of your allic or ceiling area to be covered wilh insulation. (Length x width of space to be insulated.) 2. Specify R value. (R-30 or more.) 3. The type of insulation you have decided to use, i.e., loose fill (blowing or pouring), or unfaced blanket or batt material. 4. Width of the insulation desired, i.e. if you're using blankets or balts, ceiling joists are generally Lay walking planks across ceiling 16" or 24" on center (see fig. 1). joists; Hang portable lamp; Have all of the bags of insulation material handed to you, and lay the unopened bags across Ceiling joists; Attach measuring sticks to the ceiling joists throughout the attic (see fig. 2). Rake or push broom Measuring slicks Ceiling joists — }- § ——- Ceiling joists ~ Allach to bottom of ceiling joust 24 Fig. 2 fod 2) CLWING insulating the ceiling with insulating the ceilings with blowing pouring material materials and blowing machine Air tow Do not cover vents! Before blowing any mate- rial, place two 6" batts, 24" long between ceiling joists in front of each vent to prevent loose fill material [rom cover- i ing vents. Be sure to leave an air passage from the vent over the insulation into the altic. Attach measuring sticks Loose till to joists (see fig. 2, page 7). N Ball insulation Ceiling Distribute the unopened bags of insulation in approxi- mate areas each bag will cover, laying them carefully across ceiling joists. Because of the lack of headroom and cramped quar- ters in the outer areas of most attics, you will want to start in the difficult areas first and work toward the Blowing m — Top plate i attic entrance. ; Do not cover any | Batt of insulal vents! ! Before pouring any mate- - rial, place two 6" batts, 24" > Veni gk long between ceiling joists in front of each vent to prevent loose fill material from covering vents (see fig. 3) Fill in joist space, and repeat process until the entire Be sure to leave an air pas- area is covered lo the speci- Begin applying blowing sage from the vent over the fied depth that will give you material in the outer space: insulation into the attic. the R value you want, (2 x 4 the attic and work towards Open bags, and pour the or 2 x 6 ceiling joists should the attic entrance, making insulation in the spaces be covered with insulation as sure the material meets the between the ceiling joists shown in fig. 4), Withdraw the desired level in every area Use a small rake and spread walking planks as you work indicaled by the measurin¢ the insulation evenly to the toward the altic entrance. sticks. (Slightly covering tf sticks will lake care of any seltling.) Blowing insulation requi at least two people; one to feed the machine and the other in the attic spreading the material. Feed the material into th blowing machine at a cons tent rate to avoid intervals when nothing but air is blo ing from the hose. Blowing will disrupt and disperse portions of the material already blown into place. desired depth. ~~ Measuring slicks wu ‘Imporiant National fectrical Code Requirements! “Thermal insulation shall not be installed within 24 inches of the top or within (nree inches of the side of a recessed fixture enclosure, wiring compartment or ballast unless labeled for the purpose” When insulation covers certain light fixtures and smail transformers, as illustrated, a fire danger may exist Vent Ceiling joists fom TRANSFORMER: Common uses are for doorbells, furnaces and decorative lighting. Do not place insulation material of any kind in the joist spaces around these types of ceiling light- ing fixtures or allic mounted transformers. Therefore, it is recommended that either the fixtures or trans- formers be “boxed off” (as illus- trated) in accordance with the Code, or the fixture be changed to a chain hung or stem lype of fixture Batt insulation Insulating ceil or blankets Vapor barrier down If there is large enough access to the altic, you should distribute the rolled blankets or unopened bags of batts in approximate areas which each batt or blanket will cover, laying them carefully across ceiling joists. ings with b x, x Q ae > A rd If the attic access ts NOT lare enough, materials will have to t measured and cut before enter the attic Because of the lack of headrc and cramped spaces, you will w to start in the dilficult areas firs) and work toward the altic entrai Begin laying the material again: the top plate and work toward Ut center. Press insulation firmly into ple with vapor barrier facing down loward the room being heated, being careful not lo tear or brea the vapor barrier. Fill the entire joist spaces. Av leaving gaps. Pack additional insulation in any exposed crack or crevices. To reach the recommended R standard it is necessary to lay a second blanket or batt. This blan should be unfaced if possible However, if faced material is ulilized, the facing should be pe forated to prevent condensation belween insulating layers. A knil can be used to slash the facing every three to six inches itis recommended that the second blanket be installed perp dicular lo the joists...as shown in illustration, when possible. Check again to assure that the allic vents have not been covere Ventilation keeps the insulation ¢ which gives you the best perforn ance. ail wa u AS as arch e ard 7 rou 7Q insulate walls Insulating finished walls in existing homes. The finished walls in many existing homes* may contain little or no insu- lation. If you have any insulation in the walls, it may not be practical to add additional insulation. Ifa wail has no insulation, it can be insulated with loose fill; blowing material; foam, which is foamed in under pressure, or pouring material such as vermiculite. Because of the equipment and materials involved, foam applications should be handled by an insulation contractor. Insulating unfinished walls Exposed studded walls in an existing home (basement, garages, etc.) can easily be insulated with balls or blankels Following are procedures in apply- ing these materials: Do-it-yourself insulation materials Batts or blankets R-11 or better* 3" or more Tools you'll need Sharp knife (linoleum knife) or scissors Straight edge and soll leaded pencil Tape measure Gloves Staple gun with staples Additional tools for masonry wails being insulated with batts Hammer and nails Furring strips Expansion bolts or concrete nails (for solid concrete walls) Additional fools for masonry walls being insulated with rigid insulation Mastic Caulking gun The City of Richland recommends an R-18 which is R-19 6" balt compressed to 5¥2", in walls for new construction. This requires 6" studs. It is recognized that most existing homes are not built lo this standard yet. Bul, during major remodeling, 6" studs may be desirable for maximum energy efficiency, and R-18 walls are recommended. How fo order wallinsuiaiion Calculate square footage of walls to be insulated. If windows or doors are involved, subtract their square footage from the total wall area (see fig. 5) Provide the insulation dealer with the total square footage of all ex- posed studded walls to be insulated. Ax B= Sq. Ft. of gross wall 8x 10 = 80 Ex D0 = Sq. Ft. of window 3x4=12 Subtract opening (doors and win- dows) from gross wall area. 80 Total sq. ft. to order Indicate the type of insulation desired, kraft-faced, foil faced, or unfaced insulation. When using unfaced insulation batts, itis neces- sary lo add a vapor barrier facing the interior of the room to be heated, usually a 6 mil polyethelen sheet Indicate the width of insulation desired. Studs are usually 16" or 24" on center (see fig. 6). lig. 6" WALLS, (ir Ai aoa Stapling flange Make sure all areas to be insulated are clean or tree from debris Measure the length of the stud space and add 2" to that measure- ment. When using blanket or roll insulation, place the insulation ona piece ol scrap wood or wall board for culling. Measure the length needed and mark it on the facing of the insulation Compress the material with one hand, and cut with the other. When culling faced insulation, keep the facing up Now, peel back 1" of the insulation al the top and bottom of the batt facing. Do not tear off and throw away, Just peel back (see fig. 7). This will form a stapling flange for the top and bottom of the bati. (If you are using 48" precut batts, it will be only necessary to peel back the insulation at one end.) Take the balt and push it into the stud space, MAKING SURE THAT THE FACING ON THE INSULATION FACES TO THE INTERIOR OF THE ROOM BEING HEATED. Start at the lop on the stud space and push all of the insulation into place. Where the lop of the balt is to be fastened to the . top plate, force the insulation, which -was peeled back, into the stud space and begin to staple the batt in place. Stapling flanges should overlap to provide a conlinuous vapor barrier. Stapling the batt into place can be done a couple of different ways. One is called “face stapling? another is “inset stapling: Face stapling FACE STAPLING is done by stapling the flange to the face of the studs. CAUTION: When face stapling, be careful that you do not include any insulation between the flange and the face of the stud. If you do, a bulge will result in the finished wall Face stapling gives the most com- plete vapor barrier. The same staple can be used to fasten down the two overlapping flanges. It is not neces- sary to staple both sides ol a batt individually. Inset stapling If you are using a faced insulation, you can face staple or inset staple the insulation to the studs. Begin at the top of the stud space and pull the flange to the lop plate and staple 3 or 4 times along the top. Work your way down the stud space, pulling the flange strips fatto the stud and stapling it every three to five inches When you gel to the bottom, remem- ber to staple the flange you crealed at the bottom of the insulation ball by peeling back the inch of insula- tion. Staple that flange to the bottom plate INSET STAPLING occurs by stapling the tlange to the inside side of the 2 x 4 studs IMPORTANT: If you use an inset stapling method, you will need to cover the complete wall with a con- tinuous 6 mil vapor barrier. Ud WALLS, Top plate Stapling flange If you have selected a foil faced batt, it must be inset stapled to creale a 3/4" air space between the foil and the wall board which will be installed later. Again, start al the top of the slud space. Place the flange on the inside of the 2 x 4 stud, with the facing toward the interior of the room ~ being heated. Push the entire insula- tion batt into the stud space. Begin stapling the flange to the sides of the stud space. Staples should be 3" to S" apart. Alter you have finished stapling the entire batt, stand back to see if stapling is uniform and sufficient to hold the batt in place without gaps. Now, repeat this process for the remaining wall areas. For irregular spaces or areas around windows and doors, see page 17 for instructions NOTE: If you use an inset stapling method, you will need to cover the complete wall with a continuous 6 mil vapor barrier. When using unfaced batts, press the insulation into stud cavily filling all spaces. (Especially around win- dows and doors.) Take the sheet of polyethylene (this is the vapor barrier), cover and staple complete insulated wall, including windows and doors, from ceiling to floor. With a sharp knife, cut oul window and door openings To prevent water pipes from freezing, insulation should be com- pressed and fitted behind them. It should also be fitted behind heating ducts to prevent unnecessary heat loss. Alan electrical box, push as much insulation as possible behind the box (see fig. 8). When fitting insulation around pipes, wires and ducts, take care to avoid tears in the vapor barrier. Water pipe Electrical box Sill plate lig. 8 Fitting irregular spaces oa When face stapling insulation ina space narrower than normal, cul the width of the blanket to forma 1" stapling flange on either edge. Form a stapling flange on the cut edge by peeling insulation back along new cut edges lo forma 1" stapling flange. To inset staple insulation in narrow stud spaces, cut insulation so the insulation is an inch wider than the space to be filled. This leaves one flange to be stapled normally. Wedge the insulation in place, peel the facing on the cut side away from insulalion, pull to the stud, and staple Sill plate &~ Stapling lange § Stud Insulation Vapor barrie In 16" (on center) stud walls, spaces wider than 16" can usually be insulated by cutting down 23" wide batts. To insulate spaces wider than 24" (on center), apply pieces of insulation horizontally, cut flanges for stapling to studs, and use the inset stapling technique. A separate vapor barrier must be applied to spaces insulated in this way. Insulation Vapor bar lace stapt Insulating small spaces Small spaces between rough framing and door and window heads, jambs, and sills should be hand-stulfed with insulation, then covered with strips of vapor barricr, such as 6 mil polyethylene. 9 | J G pee a SS When insulating a basement wall wilh batts or blankets, it will be necessary to install furring strips on the concrete wall. To order lumber for furring strips Measure the perimeter of the oulside walls. Measure the height of the walls to be insulated. Furring strips (2x4) should be placed 16" or 24" on cenier (see fig. 9). If installing batts with air spaces, use 2x4 furring slrips Divide the measurement of the length of the wall by either 16" or 24" and add one. (This is the number of furring strips you will need.) in addition, material will be needed for the bottom and top plate (see lig. 9) \ Top plate ETAT ozs Furring strip Bottom "7 Plate i ai Wat a) oO me 2 4] te: <>, = es 2 w =e c 3) Furring sinp — Secure the bottom plate to the floor. aE Insulation Blocking Begin at one corner and nail furring strips 16" or 24" on center Nail furring strips to the blocking. ar and toe nail them to the bottom plate Insulation with f vapor barrier Furning strip ace stapling to lucring strips Nail blocking to the sill plate at the top of the basement wall. Blocking should be deep enough to reach trom the sill plate to the inner surface of the wall. Toe nailing ~ Ratt inciting s 70 } ins on When using blanket insulation, measure the space to be insulaled from top to bottom; now measure off that amount of blanket insula- tion, plus 2" more of blanket insulation, and then cut. (In other words, your initial length of cut Masonry wall insulation should be 2" longer than the space to be insulated.) This will provide a stapling lange at each end. Do not lear away or cul away the exposed 2" of insulation, but press it firstinto the stud space as you install the length of blanket. The vapor barrier on insulation must face toward the interior of the heated room NOTE: If you use an inset stapling method, you will need to cover the complete wall with a continuous 6 mil vapor barrier. or Dilanke?t masonry wells Blanket or balt insulation which has a foil facing must be installed by insetting the batt in the stud cavily, at least 3/4" to create an air space. Foil must face toward the interior of the heated room. Starting at the top of the.cavity, insert the batt or blanket into place, stapling the flange to the sill plate or blocking (see fig. 10). Staples should be placed 3" to 5" apart. 7 Inset 3/4" stapling flange _ Insulation _ Blocking - Insulation with vapor barrier Face stapling to turring strips Furring strip Press all of the insulation into the cavity. and staple flanges to the furring strips Be sure insulation completely fills the cavity, and that there are no sags in the insulation or tears in the vapor barrier. Repeat this process in each cavity until the entire wall has been insulated For installing insulation into rofer toa pade 17 Insulating with rigi Masonry wall - masonry wails insulation If masonry wall is true (flat and even), the best method would be to apply rigid insulation directly on wall using a mastic. Certain types ol rigid insulation, such as slyrofoam products, may be applied directly lo the masonry wall with a mastic. Be certain to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the application of the mastic. When applying a rigid plastic foam, such as Styrofoam, directly to the wall, be sure thal all areas are covered completely with no gaps and no spaces. You should use 2" thick rigid material. When the masonry wall is uneven or irregular, it may be advisabie to have a contractor spray the wall with cellulose spray material. (Use 1%" or more of the material.) Before using rigid insulation (as described here and on page 22) on the inside of masonry rooms, basement walls or.masonry crawl space, or foundation walls, we recommend you check with your local building inspector or fire marshal for information on acceptable cover material for certain types of rigid insulation. y—— Balt insulation Some crawl spaces are limited and when this is the case, one of the easiest and best methods to insulate the foundation wall is lo have a contractor spray on a cellu- lose type of material. However, if there is room for you to apply rigid material, you should take the follow- ing sleps Installation Measure the wall area to be covered (perimeter and height) Cut and fit the rigid insulation snugly along the foundation wall = Apply rigid insulation to the wall a with a mastic (following manulac- fr turers instructions in using the mastic) Be sure to fill spaces between == floor joists and irregular spaces with R-19 batts. Vapor barrier should face the crawl space. Bat insulation l atl Floor joist “GCE Tanna en E rr Fam Mow 10 insulate floors If your home is built over a crawl space, il is essential thal the floor or foundation walls be insulated Even though heal rises, as much as - 30% of the total heat loss of a structure can be lost through the floor by conduction and radiation If the crawl space is limited, you may want to hire an insulation contractor to spray on a cellulose lype insulation. At the time of insu- lating the floors, be sure to also insulate duct work and hot water pipes. Materials Regular faced insulation such as kraft faced or foil faced insulation may be installed in floors with the facing towards the interior of the room being heated by supporting the insulation with either wire laced under the floor joists, or chicken wire nailed in place. Untaced insulation requires no vapor barrier and is installed in the same manner as regular faced insulation. As you will learn later in this section, specific ball or blanket materials are suggested for use in accordance with the installation methods indicated. Tools you'll need Sharp knife and/or scissors Straight edge and soft lead pencil Tape measure Gloves Staple gun and staples Portable light and extension cord (properly grounded) Ground cover (if one does not already exist on the ground underneath your home, we suggest 6 mil thickness of poly- ethylene sheel). See page 28. Wire cutters How to order insulation: Measure the length and width of the floor area to be insulated Multiply these two figures together to arrive at the square footage of your floor area. Tell your supplier the total square footage of your floor area. Indicate to him the type of insula- tion desired (kraft faced, foil faced, or unfaced) Indicale to the supplier the width of the insulation desired. Floor joists are generally 16" or 24" (on center). If you have post and beam construction, floor joists are 48" on center). Use 48" wide balls or 48" lon balls crosswise or see section on foil page 25. on center rey RAR FLOORS Dats ah Chicken wire method If you are going to use chicken wire to support insulation batts, ask your materials dealer for the square footage of chicken wire sufficient to cover the square footage under your floor. Insulation / Floor joists Foundation wall Because of the lack of workable space, you will want to work with small spans of wire at one time. Nail the chicken wire to the bottom of the floor joists Working with one width of wire al a time, push bait insulation firmly into place between floor joists, with the insulation resting upon the chicken wire. Untaced insulation is the best type of balt insulation for this procedure. If batts with facing are used, be sure that the vapor barrier or facing is installed toward the room being heated Alter one complete run of chicken wire has been nailed into place and filled with insulation, repeat the process by nailing chicken wire to the bottom of the joist Push batt material into place, being careful to securely fit these balls to the previous batts installed. Laced wire support method To lace wire under the floor to support batt insulation, use 19 gauge wire to cover the underside of the floor joists. Nails may be used to hold the wire in place. These _ Chicken wire insialing unvaced or regularfaced 3 lankets uncer floor Insulation Floor joists ~ Laced wire Foundation wali nails are located at intervals along the joists, and insulation is sup- ported by the wire laced back and forth on the nails. To install the batt insulation with this method, follow the same steps as listed for “chicken wire method” installation —- Insulation Important note Any exposed healing ducts or waier pipes should be wrapped with insulation at the time you are installing insulation in the crawl space A. tremendous amount of wasted energy occurs from the loss of heat at this point To insulale ducis and pipes: Take pieces of insulation 2" thick and wrap the pipe and ducts Continue along the pipe or duct until all exposed area has been covered. Secure with wire or tape. If the duct is used for cooling as well as heating, a vapor barrier should cover the insulation. (6 mil polyethylene secured with wire or tape.) insulating a crawl space witn a reflective insulation How to order Provide the building supplier with the square footage of the floor area over the crawl space. How to install Begin at the sill plate of the foundation, staple the foil to the sill plate and continue across the floor joists Staple the foil to the bottom of the floor joists with the bright side up facing the healed room. Make next run leaving 1/4" air space for ventilation’ (see fig. 11). Healing ducts or water pipes located in the space belween the floor joists should have the foil draped below them. Make sure the duct and pipe does not touch the foil (see fig. 12). “The insulation value of this material depends on the reflective surface of the foil and nol on an air tight space. Our standards call for R-19 in the floor, but use of a reflective foil is said by some sources to equal A-9. — Floor joists (botiom) - Floor joisis 1/4" air space Floor joists IMT ‘ VENI. pais lag ono Wentiical In order for insulation to perform al its best, moisture vapor must be removed through ventilation. Ifa structure is insulated to the standards we recommend, adequale allic ventilation and interior moisture control are essential. We recommend power attic ventilation. It may also be necessary to install a mechanical de-humidilication system for the interior of the house. Consult cily or county building inspectors lo insure compliance with local codes and regulalions. Sollit or eaves vent a Ventilating attics In winter, the insulation keeps heat within the house while the open vents let moisture escape. In summer, ventilation carries off warm alr. Always provide al least two vent openings. They should be placed so thal air can fiow in one, over the insulated area, and out the other. The combination of eaves vents and vents at the ridge (pointed top of the roof) or high in gable ends is best. If natural ventilation is difficult lo achieve, power venti- lators may be instalied, (Attic fans.) a enn A lh RR SNS tN I A a a Foundation vent Rool vent A NOTE OF CAUTION: Many times when insulation has been installed in.an existing home, the insulation has been installed covering vents and has cut off circulation. This can lead to trouble, so be sure that all vents in the roof, and under the floors, are kept clear. Ifa ground cover is installed, the foundation vents can be closed during winter heating and opened during the summer Yenting cravils Seas SRaCESS At least iwo vent openings shoud always be provided, placed on opposite sides of the crawl space if possible. A ground cover significantly helps keep relative humidily ata low level. We recommend a ground cover always be used for moisture control Six-mil polyethylene or other approved material should cover the entire area, overlapping 12-inches at all joints and turning up the foun- dation wall 12-inches With ground cover, moisture is contained in the ground. Without ground cover, moisture collects along wood structure causing dry rol. eT VINI LATION Yapor barriers Vapor barriers should be placed on the warm side of walls, ceiling, and floors. Suitable vapor barriers are usually pro- vided on blanket insulation. Where no vapor barrier is atlached to the insulation, separate vapor barriers are necessary. The following materials have been found necessary: 1. Polyethylene sheeting: 6 mils or thicker for walls, ceilings, and ground covers under slabs or over craw! space earth. 2. Waterproofed laminated asphalt coated paper. 3. Similar film, sheets, or materials with comparable vapor resistant qualities. Any vapor barrier damaged during insialla- tion should be repaired by replacing the damaged section or mending with tape When blown insulation is to be used in new work, conlinuous vapor barriers should be applied to the underside of ceiling joists where specified and to the inside of wall studs. The barrier should be broughi tightly against electrical oullets, registers, door and window frames, and other openings It should also cover the headers over doors and windows : In existing houses, vapor protection may be obtained by painting interior walls and ceilings with three coats of good vapor resistant paint The procedures shown in this booklet are in accordance with standard insulation techniques. The City of Richland cannot be held responsible tor the performance of installed insulation or ventilating procedures. Consult city or county building inspectors fo insure compliance with local codes and regulations. Heating conservation tips 1 10. 115 5 oes © . Locate the thermostat on an inside wall away from any influence of heat or cold. . During the day set your thermostat at the lowest comfortable temperature. 68° isa good starting point. At night, or when away from home, lower the heating temperature at least 10° Caulk cracks around window and door frames. . Weatherstrip around any opening to the attic. . Install weatherstripping and threshold closure on all exterior doors or doors to partially heated attached spaces. Weather- strip all windows. . Install insulation over all surfaces exposed to unconditioned space. . Install tight fitting damper in fireplace and keep closed when fireplace is nol being used . Install glass fireplace screens. If possible, equip fireplace with source of outside air to support combustion. Make sure that exhaust fans have a good back-flow damper to avoid reverse cold air flow. Insulate healing and return air ducts located in unconditioned space. Change air fillers at least once a month during the heating season. This conservation guidebook was originally produced by Pacilic Power & Light and is reproduced with their permission as a public service. 2nd EDITION IN THE BANK... OR UP THE CHIVINE’ A Dollars and Cents Guide to Energy-Saving Home [mprovements Wr Poe ff artmant Conservation AEP Urben Derdupment To the Citizens of Washington State: The Washington State Energy Office and the agency or business providing this booklet to you are pleased to be able to assist you in conserving energy in your home. Rising fuel bills and energy shortages illustrate the necessity for everyone to do their part in conserving energy and dollars. This booklet “In the Bank . 7706 Up the Chimney” has been developed to assist you in assessing where you are wasting energy and money in your household and what you can do to make your home more energy efficient, and stretch your income. You don't have to be an expert to make the home improvements necessary to save money on your fuel bill. By following the information contained in this booklet, you can do the work yourself. But if you prefer to have a contractor complete the work, it also serves as a handy reference in selecting one that will complete the work to your satisfaction. Need more information? Contact the agency providing this booklet, your local utility or the Washington State Energy Office. Working with you, we can reduce energy consumption and bank the savings. Sincerely, Lv Fol) Jack O. Wood Director To the American Homeowner: I am sure you are aware that heating and cooling your home is costing more money than ever before. This does not have to be true. There is clear and reliable information to help you put dollars in the bank instead of up the chimney. The results of HUD-sponsored research on the many ways to save energy and money while heating and cooling your house are described in this booklet. It doesn’t matter whether your house is built of brick, wood or other material. HUD has included energy-saving techniques applicable to all types of housing, and from the explanations in this booklet, you will be able to choose the best methods for your house. This booklet will also help you choose between those energy-saving steps you can do for yourself and those you will want to hire a contractor to undertake. Tables are provided to enable you to compute the cost-savings of each method. We at HUD believe this booklet is very useful. We hope that you will use it to save money and energy for your family and the Nation. Te / noe {| == Patricia Roberts Harris Secretary IN THE | OR UP A Botllers and Cents Guide to Energy-Saving Home improvements 2nd EDITION Prepared for the Office of Policy Development and Research, Division of Energy, Building Technology and Standards, U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development Under Contract H-2179R by Abt Associates, Inc. Cambridge, Massachusetts April 1975 Revised under Contract H-2681 by Technology + Economics, Inc gy , Inc. >: Cambridge, Massachusetts kip AELTA August 1977 For sele by the Superintendent of Documents Ay U.S. Governa Oftice VVC ry Washington, D.C. 2402 Stat e Er nergy Office Stock No. 023400-0011-9 400 Ecst Union Clympia, VYeshingion GESC4 206/754-1350 TO I ETE Financing Energy-Saving Home Improvements HUD/FHA-insured “Title 1’ home improvement loans can be used to finance energy saving home improvements (see page 66). Contact your bank or local HUD Office for information on terms and amounts. Tax Credits At the time of this publication, federal tax credits to benefit homeowners who make energy-saving investments had not yet been enacted. However, in the near future this situation is almost certain to change, making the improvements described here even more financially attractive. There will be a limit to those credits; we hope this manual will serve as a tool to help you make the most of them, both in terms of fuel dollars you save, and in terms of energy saved for the nation. Be sure to check with the local office of the Internal Revenue Service before applying for a tax credit for energy saving improvements. Miore Information A more detailed, technical presentation of the material in this manual is available, and is recommended for use by contractors, architects, and engineers, Enclose $7.50 for paperbound, $3.00 for microfiche, and write for “Cost- Effective Methods to Reduce the Heating and Cooling Energy Requirements of Single-Family Dwellings,” Stock Num- ber PB241919: National Technical Information Service 5285 Port Royal Road Springfield, Virginia 22151 Viore Copies of this Manual If you think your company, organization, or department would be interested in obtaining quantities of “IN THE BANK. ..OR UP THE CHIMNEY?”, information on getting discounts for orders in quantity is available. In addition, information on using this manual as a promotional device, or in energy education programs is also available. Write: Office of Policy Development and Research Division of Product Dissemination and Transfer U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development 451 7th Street, S.W., Room 8126 Washington, D.C. 20410 CONTENTS PART 1: A QUICK LOOK AT YOUR HOWE Page 1 PART 2: A CLOSER LOOK AT YOUR HOME Page 5 Caulk and Weatherstrip Your Doors and Windows ......... 0.00. eee e eee eee eee 8 install: Storm WinGOws! guesses eas Ee gn Gels eas come mete ere ene 10 Insulating WourAtuc assua.-sncaae= «re te oo ee eee Eriaae 1 ee ot Insulate Your Unfinished Attic. .......... 0... c eee ee eee eect eee eee es 12 Insulate Your Unfinished Floored Attic... 0.0.2... cece eee cece eee eee 14 Insulate Your Finished Attic. .... 2.20.0... cee eee eee eee eee eee eee 1 Insulate Your Walls aa... nazar tect ttle meme hein Fania oa Pierre caesar 19 Insulating Your Crawl Space Walls, Floor or Basement Walls.................02. 21 Insulate Your CrawliSpace Walls... .1...226qs-mmsyearei. «Ser sears we eee 22 Tastlate) YOuG-FIOOL smaimis- sass om. eSaia ee pees She ee iisiiagen 23 Insulate Your Basement Wallsiy maar gett euietigrea nas poser, begs tain sin were 24 Thermostat, Furnace and Air Conditioner............ 20... 2. eee eee ee eens 25 ‘NOUR Heating and/ Cooling Factors) 2. .-n3,ci09)s smnie Seo -a diem oe re eee 23 PART 3: HOW TO DOIT Page 31 WINDOWS AND DOORS Caulk, the/Openingsiin Your Homey... 2 m2: else el stolen aeiety Omen gies mine 34 Weatherstrip oun Wind Owsea arts ries sierra arp st BE c-Si se 36 Weatherstrip: Your DOOIS)...... <a cw <1 elses mnie SE ee te oe leas RACE lio 38 Install, Plastic Storm Wandows!: sa.77 peels se eel aeieya ema Saye ss me 40 InstalllSingle Pane Stonnt Wind Owsircms--... sa6 5 som pe stem oe REE ess Em 41 Install Combination Storm’ WindOWS! a: sm0- .aciseeosmes cause eee ee eee 42 Install (Combination Storm Doors)... 62 2a or ee reel Sera ete tnieiers spears ass 43 INCULATION Buying lnsolationsererr sss 1 artma- Fes ce ee Se oe ERA els Fee 4 Insulate; Your, Untinished Attic... .mmsema-m cag son- cits soe er eee itemise irel 47 Insulate Your Unfinished Floored Attic ayy so a eee eee enn sane ms 55 SO Imsulate Your Fanishe ara ttsc varsrepriarareesyenerctes ete ae rain es bint os G Cm HERS se 9 53 Do You Need a Vapor Barrier or More Ventilation in Your Attic?................ 54 Insulate: Your Wood Frame Walls... cam: -mm- ees peo eet ae ores en eiiniecieeee- 55) Insulate Your'Crawl Space Wallsl omrtiee ttle rnc o tei. SBiae orn a dts 56 Tristate Vion Fl oofsecereci ine een ne es som 5 FEM ene SERS toe Sg Gem oe $8 Instilate: Your iBasement Was... sire emis 22S sums SSE ie Fe ern eee 60 SAVING ENERGY WITH YOUR HEATING, AIR CONDITIONING, AND WATER HEATING So epee net SUR eee metanin- het emesis Say + wminsite 62 GHOOSINGIASCONTFRAGCIIOR cs sree sels so FEM olin AR Sms es ee 66 GETTING BINANCING 25mg icc rigeesrint 75 weirs FUP Ee Or ne aie oleae En eIE TERI 66 PART 4: NIGRE...on howto save heating &cooling energy Page 67 Irie CXopeerer rem racmarocy-ne: dake F times BIS Eryn. aon HF PI aan Ss PERU ares T NSPS eerie eee 74 Ackniowledseménts ang, AUUNOKS ns pm cevign spe ew sete ae ork ieee NSIS EIS yet a THE ENERGY /GHECKLIST aver coreg orise ee iain insta a Sms Sie eter 76 f mie GW TO USE THIS MANUAL ri TWO WAYS TO BEGIN Whether you begin with Part 1 or Part 2, you won't have to read all of it — just what applies to your home. 1. Take a Quick Look at Your Home Start on page 2... ...to look at your home from your armchair — you don’t have to measure or count a thing. Depending on where you live and whether or not you have air conditioning, Part 1 will tell you what your best energy-saving steps are. You'll get a rough idea of what they'll cost, and how much they'll save you each year. OR 2. Take a Closer Look Start on page 7... ... if you’re willing to count your windows, make some quick measurements, and do a little arithmetic. Part 2 will tell you much more than Part 1. It’s tailored to your home — and it’ll give you a pretty good idea of your costs and savings for each energy-saving home improvement. THEN ...60 IT! Go on to page 33... 6: ...each energy-saving home improvement you've chosen is spelled out in detail. You'll find out how to do-it-yourself; or, how to hire a contractor and see that he does the job right. Page 63... There’s Nicre, too... e yay ej Part 4 has lots more ways to save energy — and some new ways to comé in the future. PART 7: A QUICK LOOK AT YOUR HOME There:are ranges of costs and savings given for the energy-savings improvements on these two pages. For comparison with your home, a single-story, 1250 square-foot house in Washington, D.C. paying $.45 per gal. of oil, $.16 per hundred cubic feet of gas, or $.03 per kilowatt of electricity will fall at about the middle of the range given. Aree YOUR HEATING SAVINGS Packace 14 1. Tum down thermostat Ce 6° in winter from your usual setting. (Sy (2 Package2 Co | { 1. Tum down thennostat &) Oo 5. um 6 in winter from your usual setting. You can save significantly on heating if you live practically anywhere inthe U.S.A. Look at the map above. If you live in the part of the country that’s shaded, here are two packages of energy-saving measures for you: Package 1 is cheap and easy, and it pays for itself 2. Put on plastic storm windows. every year. Package 2 saves even more, year after year. It can cut your heating bills by as much as one-half. It will pay for itself within 5 years. YOUR AIR-CONDITICNING SAVINGS Look at the map to the left. Package 3 can save you money on your air-conditioning bills, if you live in the part of the country that’s shaded. Z IN THE BANK...OR UP THE CHIMNEY Here’s an idea of what Package 1 costs end saves ina | | 2. Put on plastic typical home. storm windows. Yearly Cost Yearly Savings i 1. Turn down thermostat.. SO $27-87 : 2. storms $7-9 $27-73 3. Service oil furnace $25 $33-87 TOLAL $32.34] $87-247 3. Service your oil furnace If you already have storm windows, or if you don’t have an oil furnace — then take a look at package 2. 3. Service your oil furnace. | Here’s an idea of what Package 2 costs and saves in a | n| typical home (Items 4 and 5 reduce the heating bill to which the effects of Items 1, 2, and 3 are applied, so 1, 2, and 3 save less here than in Package 1): 1st Year Cost Yearly Savings 1. Turn down thermostat $0 $13-53 2. Put on plastic storms $7-9 $20-60 3. Service oil furnace S25) $20-53 4. weatherstrip $75-105* $40-100 5. Insulate your attic $300-450* $50-75 TOTAL, $407-589 $143-341 * These are do-it-yourself costs. If you called a contractor, these items could cost twice as much. 5: You might or might not need to do all of these things. Tum the page to find out which items apply to your home. Here’s an idea of what Package 3 costs and saves ina 1. Turn up thermostat 6° in summer : : : . ae typical home: from your usual setting. Ist YearCost Yearly Savings 1. Turn up thermostat $0 $7-20 2. Insulate your attic $300450 * $33-67 3. Caulk and weatherstrip $75-105* $27-67 2. Insulate your attic. ani nip iat TOTAL $375-555] | $67-154] These are do-it-yourself costs. If you called a contractor, these items could cost twice as much. And if you live in the part of the country that’s st Pe ee AAS on beth maps, these cooling savings are in addition to ap i Se what you save on heating — turn the page to see what AN ur tote. gs will be. A QUICK LOOK AT YOUR HOME eS} ne eee rt cer RT EY LO REE A NR DERE Ee re aa oA le are SET ETT AR PART 2: A CLOSER LOOK AT YOUR HOME HEATING AND AIR-CONDITIONING SAVINGS TOGETHER If you have whole-house air conditioning and if you live in the part of the country that’s shaded on both of the maps on the previous page, some of the energy-saving steps save on both heating and cooling — but you only have to i pay for them once. LOOK AT THESE TWO TABLES FOR AN ESTIMATE OF THE COMBINED -- COSTS AND SAVINGS FOR A TYPICAL HOME: Table 1 Package 1 plus turing up the thermostat in summer: _ Yearly Cost Yearly Savings Tum down thermostat in winter ~~ $0 $27-87 Turn up thermostat. imi in summer $0 $7-20 Put on plastic storms $7-9 $27-73 Service oil furnace _ . $25 $33-87 TOTAL $32-34 $94-267 Table 2 Package 2 and Package 3 together: 1st Year Cost Yearly Savings Turn down thermostat in winter $0 $27-87 Turn up thermostat . dd in summer $0 $7-20 Put on plastic storms $7-9 $20-73 Service oil furnace $25 $20-53 Caulk and weatherstrip $75-105* $67-167 Insulate attic $300-450* $80-227 TOTAL $407-589 _ $221-626 * These are do-it-yourseif costs. If you have a contractor do it, these items could cost about twice as much. Whichitems do you need todo? Do you need to adjust your thermostat? *, sot — > Everyone can profit from tuming their thermostat down in winter and up in summer. Do you need to put on storm windows or service your oil furnace? : Dl ~\ You do if you live in the part of the country that’s shaded on the upper map on the last page. Put on storm windows if you don’t have them already. Plastic. ones are cheapest. See page 40. Service your oil furnace each year if you have one. See page 63. If you have a gas furnace, service it every three years and save, too. Do you need to add caulk or putty? gh Look around the edges of a typical window, where the picture shows. Check the edges of your doors, too. There should be some filler in all these cracks. That’s either caulking or putty. If it’s old, brittle, and broken up, or if it’s missing altogether, you need to put some in. Go to page 34 to find out how to do it. 4 Do you need to weatherstrip? Look for the strips of vinyl, metal, or foam rubber a- round the edges of your windows and doors. That’s weatherstripping. If it’s missing or deteriorated, you need to put some in. Go to pages 36-39 to find out how to do it. Do you need to insulate your attic? Go up into your attic and see how much insulation is there. Usually, there’s a door or hatchway to the attic. If not, get a contractor to check it for you. Look at the table on page 44 to see how much more insulation you need. Keep Going . .. there are lots more energy-saving ideas in Parts 3 and 4, starting on page 33. If you want more accurate cost and savings figures, look at Part 2, starting on the next page. IN THE BANK...OR UP THE CHIMNEY PAIT 2: ACLOSER LOOK AT YCUR HONE This part of your manual takes a closer look at your home, where it is in the country, and the best, cheapest way to fix up your house to save energy. In Part 2 there are 12 valuable energy-saving steps. You'll find out which ones apply to your home and: 1. How much they'll cost; of those steps that do apply, which you can afford. 2. Which to do first; of those steps you can afford, which ones get you your money back the fastest. 3. How much you'll save by taking an energy-saving step. You Can Skip Someof Part 2 Each energy-saving step has a page or two in this part. Go through these one at atime. You'll see immediately that you can skip some of them. There’s a section at the beginning of the pages on each energy-saving step. Reading this section and checking some items around your home, you'll find some more measures you can skip. Some of Part 2 is Just VWfhat You Need There are sure to be several energy-saving steps here that do apply to your home. Every time you find a step that does, follow the pages through until you get the two important numbers for each step: COST, and SAVINGS FACTOR, then copy them onto the Energy Checklist at the end of the-book. The Energy Checklist lets you see all the numbers for your energy-saving steps in one place. Once you've copied your COST and SAVINGS FACTOR onto the Checklist, there’s a little arithmetic — the directions are all right there. Then you're ready to go — you'll know what to do first, how much you'll save the first year, and whether you can afford it. TABLE GF CONTENTS Caulk and Weatherstrip Your Doors Insulate Your Walls <sym senor mi - 108% elem Ble te 19 and: WindOWS s2:0.05,0:.00.5 Ge asim. «ees Insulating Your Crawl Space Walls, Install Storm Windows ..... at Floor or Basement Walls..............-. Insulating Your Attic ........... mE Insulate ‘Your Crawl Space Walls .. Insulate Your Unfinished Attic ............. Insulate Your Floor........... Insulate Your Unfinished Insulate Your Basement Walls . Ploored, AtGc wa. saanteaecesansmeot see 14 Thermostat, Furnace and Air Conditioner ....... 25 Insulate Your Finished Attic ............... 16 Your Heating and Cooling Factors .............28 PART 2: ACLOSER LOOK 7 Caulking and weatherstripping are good cheap ways to save energy. [t's worth your while to check to see if you need caulking, puity, or weatherstripping on your windows and doors. DO THEY NEED CAULKING OR PUTTY? Look at a typical window and a typical door. Look at the parts shown in the pictures. Check the box next to the description that best fits what you see: CAVULKING PUTTY =! (J OK... All the cracks are completely filled with caulking. The putty around the window panes is solid and unbroken; no drafts. OOFAIR... The caulking and putty are old and cracked, or missing in places; minor drafts. O POOR... There’s no caulking at all. The putty is in poor condition; noticeable drafts. If you checked either “FAIR” or “POOR”, then you probably need caulking. OOK... Good, unbroken weatherstripping in all the indicated places; no drafts. OOFAIR... Weatherstripping damaged or missing in places; minor drafts. (POOR... No weatherstripping at ail; noticeable drafts. If you checked either “FAIR” or “POOR”, then your windows probably need weatherstripping. Be careful, they may be in such poor condition that weatherstripping can’t be installed. See p. 36. DO THEY NEED WEATHERSTRIPPING? A. YOUR WINDOWS Look at the parts shown in the pictures of one or ck one: two of your typical windows. Che B. YOUR DOORS Look at the parts of your doors shown in the picture. Check one: OOK... Good, unbroken weatherstripping ia all the indicated places; no drafts. OO FAIR... Weatherstripping damaged or missing in places; minor drafts. (J POOR... No weatherstripping at all; noticeable drafts If you checked either “FAIR” or “POOR”, then your doors probably need weatherstripping. IF YOU CHECKED “OK” FOR ALL ITEMS, THEN YOU DON’T NEED CAULKING, PUTTY, OR WEATHERSTRIPPING. GO ON TO PAGE 10 IF YOU CHECKED “FAIR” OR “POOR” FOR ANY ITEM, COMPLETE THE NEXT PAGE. IN THE BANK... OR UP THE CHIMNEY Find Your Cost 1. Multiply the number of windows that need caulking X $0.90 = and puizy times the cost per window: number of windows Multiply the number of windows that need weather- X $4.00 = stripping times the cost per window: number of windows Ww w Multiply the nu. “er of doors that need caulking xX $0.85 = times the cost per door: | number of doors 4. Multiply the number of doors that need weather- X $6.75 stripping times the cost per door: ULL + number of doors 5. Add up these numbers to get the total: TOTALCOST |S This cost is your estimated do-it-yourself cost. (It’s easy to 4 times as much. Prices vary from area to area and to do yourself — look at page 34.) If you get a from job to job, so check with local contractors for an contractor to do it, your costs will be greater — at least 2 estimate (see page 66). aa, as a Find Your Savings Factor Fill out only the lines that apply to your house: A. YOUR WINDOWS Multiply these two numbers caulking and putty: ai in FAIR condition: X O03 = number of windows in POOR condition: ‘ x) 20) | = number of windows weatherstripping: in FAIR condition: X 10 = , number of windows in POOR condition: X 84 = number of windows B. YOUR DOORS Multiply these two numbers caulking: el in FAIR condition: X 03 = number of doors in POOR condition: xX 09 = number of doors weatherstripping: in FAIR condition: OIE) X 20 = | number of doors in POOR condition: X 16.8 = + number of doors C. Add up all the numbers you've written in the boxes to the right and write the total here: This number is your savings factor. - SAVINGS FACTOR GO TO THE ENERGY CHECKLIST AT THE END OF THE BOOK Write the total cost you found above in the orange box Write the savings factor you found above in the grey on line 1 of the Checklist. Dox on line 1 of the Checklist. PART 2: A CLOSER LOOK 9 20 op eer nen a A I TN I ET LEE LOT ER A RI AL Oe 8 CO FR ES SO ET TO COMBINATION There are five kinds of storm windows: PLASTIC (POLYETHYLENE SHEET). These come in rolls and cost only 65¢ each. You may have to put up replacements each year. SINGLE PANE GLASS OR RIGID PLASTIC. These cost $25.00 for glass and $8.00 for acrylic panes. You put them up and take them down each year. TRIPLE-TRACK GLASS (COMBINATION). These have screens and you can open and close them. They are for double-hung or sliding windows (see the illustra- tion). They cost about $33.00 each installed. They are available for less without screens. All five Kinds are about equally effective. The more expensive ones are more durable, attractive, and convenient. FILL OUT ONE OR MORE OF LINES A, B, AND C— WHICHEVER ONES YOU'RE INTERESTED IN. A. PUT ON PLASTIC. STORM WINDOWS WITHOUT WEATHERSTRIPPING Your cost: Count the number of windows you have and multiply times $0.65: ae xso.65= {S$ number of windows total cost Your Savings: In step A on page 8 you checked either “OK,” “fair,” or “poor” as the condition of the weatherstripping on your windows. — Ifyou checked “OK”, circle this number 79 — Ifyou checked “FAIR” circle this number 8.2 — Ifyou checked “POOR” circle this number 10.8 Multiply the number you circled times the number of windows you have: x —— Poa number you number of savings factor circled windows windows you have times the cost given below: C. PUT ON GLASS OR RIGID PLASTIC STORM WINDOWS (see Note) Your Cost: Choose which kind of glass or rigid plastic storm windows you want, and multiply the number of Single-pane, rigid plastic $ 8.00 Single-pane glass $25.00 Triple-track glass (combination), $33.00 double hung or slider is total cost xs number of windows u Your savings: Multiply your number of windows times 7.9: X 7.9 = number of windows savings factor B. PUT ON PLASTIC STORM WINDOWS AT THE SAME TIME YOU WEATHERSTRIP {see Note) Your cost: Multiply your number of windows times $0.65: number of windows Your savings: Multiply your number of windows times 7.9: MG) 729) ae! number of windows savings factor 10 SEE THE ENERGY CHECKLIST AT THE END OF THE BOOK NOTE: These cost and savings factors are for storm windows only. They are in addition to the costs and savings for caulking and weatherstripping that you found on the last page. If you filled out Part A here, fiil out line 2a of the Checklist. If you filled out Part B here, fill out line. 2b of the Checklist. If you filled out Part C here, fill out line 2c of the Checklist. write the total cost into the orange box on and the savings factor into the grey box. IN THE BANK ...OR UP THE CHIMNEY ULATING YOUR ATTIC IF YOUR HOME HAS ONE OF THE 3 KINDS SHOWN BELOW, Attic insulation is one of the most important energy- go straight to the page in this section that applies, work saving home improvements you can make. This section it through, and fill out one of the lines in the attic talks about insulating 3 kinds of attics. portion of the Energy Checklist at the end of the book. Unfinished Attics Unfinished Attic without a floor. Attic isn’t used at all. (This includes Attics with roof trusses in them.) Page 12 Unfinished Attic with a floor. (Attic can be used for storage.) ; ~ . \ Page 14 rintshed Attics Finished Attic that can be used for living or storage. ae YOUR HOME IS A COMBINATION OF lf this is your situation, treat each of your attics WO KINDS OF ATTICS separately. Go to both of the pages in this section that of your attic may be finished and heated, part may apply, and fill out both lines in the attic portion of the be unused except as storage, as in these sample houses): Energy Checklist at the end of the book. FINISHED UNFINISHED, UNFINISHED, ATTIC UNFLOORED FLOORED ATTIC ATTIC Chae ie Flat roof? Mansard roof? If your home has a flat roof, or a mansard roof, it will be harder end more expensive to insulate than the others — talk to a contractor — see Part 3 on how to pick a contractor. PART 2: ACLOSER LOOK 11 Fe ie pene ae EET ST eee carr erent AR A AR RR This is the kind of attic you have if it has no floor — at most some loose boards to walk on, and you don’t ever plan to finish it. It depends on how much insulation is already there. To find out, go up into your attic and measure the depth of the insulation. No If you already have 8” or more, you may have enough, and you can skip the rest of this page. Check the table on page 44 to be sure. inches You'll need this. number in 2 minute. Go on to xt column. NOTE: If you can’t get up into your attic to measure the depth of your insulation, you will need a contractor to ¢ 2 work. Call him for a cost mate. Ask the con- tracter to teil you how much insulation is already there, Then ask him for an estimate to add the R-value recommenced on these pages. 12 LESS THAN NINE INCHES? the steps marked 1, 2 and 3, on this and the next page. Then read the directions in the lower right- hand corner of the next page to interpret the chart. % i a tot i, How much snould you acc e recommended amounts of insulation to add. For electrically heated homes, or extremely cold climates, these may still not be enough. For more precise advice on how much to add, see the table on page 44. If the table on page 44 recommends a greater thickness for your home than is given below, you can still use the tables on these pages to estimate insulation costs, but not fuel savings. ca) ha q 3+ ~ 8s 2. Should you co-it-yourseli You can do-it-yourself if there’s a way for you to get up into the attic. If you aren’t sure whether you want to do-it-yourself, look at page 47 to help you decide. Then, check “Do-it-yourself” or “Contractor” in one of the boxes below. YOU NEED THIS MUCH MORE INSULATION ° 'F YOU HAVE THIS MUCH INSULATION NONE AT ALL Co-it-yourself a) R-30(9”-14") -— Hire a contractor aes R-30(9-14"") | UNDER 2 INCHES Co-it-yourself R-22(6"-10°") Hire a contract 2704 INCHES Do-it-yourself R-11(3":5") R-11(3”-5") 4TO6 INCHES —_—_—_—_—_, Do-it-yourself I R-11(37-5"’) a IN THE BANK ...OR UP THE CHIMNEY sn v. your attic. If it’s a rectangle: Measure its length and width in feet to the nearest foot and multiply them together. If it’s a combination: Bresk it down into rectangles, find the area of each one, then add the areas to get the total. iow big ts your att To get your attic area, you don’t even have to go up into the attic. Find out the area of the first floor of your home, not counting the garage, porch, and other unheated areas, and it will be the same as the area of Ls (Gie \N r | length x width = area Xx = __ length X width = area x = x c= + = total area Check the number of square feet below that’s closest to your total attic area 600 200 1200 1600 2000 Sq. Ft. Sq. Ft. Sq. Ft. Sq: Ft Sq. Ft. f + 4 tf Con $223. | $334 $445 $594 S$ 742 Savings Factor 240 360 | 430 640 200 Con $276 $414 $553 $737 $ 221 Savings Factor 240 360 480 | 640 200 Cost $168 $252. | $336 S448 S 560 Savings Factor 56 86 115 154 206 Cost $198 $297 $396 $529 S 661 Savings Factor 56 86 115 154 206 s j Read across end down the chert from the boxes you've checked to find which square in the chart applies to you, like this: Cost S$ 78 $117 $156 $208 S 260 Savings Factor 22 33 | 44 59 74 Cost S 36 $129 $172 $229 | S 286 Savings Factor Za 33 44 | 74 Copy these two numbers onto line 3 SCC the ‘Enexoy Checklist at the end! of the book. The orange number, your —_ $73 $117 $156 $203 S$ 260 cost, gues in the orenye box, the grey Savings Factor 12 138 24 32 20 number, your savings factor, goes in Con $ 86 $129 $172 $229. | S226 | ‘hesrey box. Savings Factor | 12 18 24 32 40 ve the same R-Value. See Page 46. L wewtnacct This is your kind of attic if it’s unfinished and un- heated but has a floor. he It depends on how much insulation is already there. To find out, go up there and check. The insulation, if there is any, will be in either of two places: Between the rafters. The first place to look is up between the rafters and in the walls at the ends of the attic. Under the floor. If it’s not up between the rafters, it might be down under the floorboards. If so, it won’t be easy to sce. You'll have to look around the edges of the attic, or through any large cracks in the floor. A flashlight may be handy, and also a ruler or stick that you poke through the cracks with. If there’s any soft, fluffy material in there, that’s insulation. Wherever the insulation is, if it’s there at all, estimate how thick it is. ker than 4 inches, it’s not economical to add more — skip the rest of this page. page If it’s 4 inches thick or les: out these two pages to help < NOTE: If youcan’t tall whether you have enough insulation up there, gat a contractor to find out for you. You're likely to be calling cn@ anyway to do the work, and you'll want a cost estimate from him. Ask the con- or to teil you how much insulation is already and use the figures ha gives you to completa S page and fill out the ersy Checklist. 14 - 3 ae ators TOUT CCSi ama To get a.quick estimate of your costs and savings, follow steps 1 and 2 below and on the next page. iz eS! a at > iswui cx] = There are two basic ways to insulate this type of attic. a. Insulate the rafters, end walls, and collar beams. This is the best way if you're doing it yourself, or if you think you might ever finish the attic. b. The other way is to blow loose insulation in under the attic floor. This is 2 contractor job — you can’t do it yourself. Also, don’t do this if you think you tever finish the attic. But if you’re going to call a contractor, this is the cheapest and most effective way. To see what's involved in a do-it-yourself job of insulating the rafters, end walls, and collar beams, look at page 51. What’s involved whe a contractor does the work is on page 50. There are three different methods listed below. Pick the one that you think you might want to do. For the method you’ve chosen, ch: one of the three boxes — the top one if there’s no existing insulation, the middle one if there’s up to 2 inches of existing insulation, or the bottom one if there's from 2 to 4 inches of existing insulation. Then go to step 2 on the next page. DO-IT-YOURSELF: RAFTERS, END WALLS, COLLAR BEAMS No existing insulation }-- 0-2 inches 2 inches CONTRACTOR INSTALLATION: RAFTERS, END WALLS, COLLAR BEAMS No existing insulation 0-2 inches C-—————_—___—_—_—_ 24 inches CONTRACTOR INSTALLATION: UNDER ATTIC FLOOR lation C] — No existing i 22 ann nnn wa _ _- IN THE BANK ...OR UP THE CHIMNEY 2. How big isyour attic ? Your unfinished, floored attic area will be either shaped Like a rectangle or a combination of rectangles. If it’s a rectangle: Measure it’s length and width in feet to the nearest foot and multiply them together. ie length X width = = area x ll \N If it’s a combination: Break it down into rectangles, find the area of each one, length X width = area then add the areas to get the total. 1 xX = 2 x = 3 Xx = total area a Check the number of square feet below that’s closest to your attic floor area: 600 3900 1200 1600 2000 Sq. Ft. Sq. Ft. Sq. Ft. Sq. Ft. Sq. Ft edith y ¥ _ Free | Cost $190 $274 $259 $487 | $s 595 £ | | savings Factor 83 121_| 165 224 | 284 -ovwy to read the chart : Te | con $170 S131 $236 $366 | S$ 444 | Savings Factor 27 41 57 74 22 Read down and across from the boxes you've . Syn | Cost S$ 93 $164 $219 $310 S$ 3&3 checked to find which square in the chart i 7 | savings Factor 1 18 25 24 43 popliesitoyoullikeuthis: 1200 se i st Sa. Fe - Ye | Cost $346 s$so00 $657 sees $1C22 - Savings Factor 83 121 | 165 224 284 * |} con $167 $314 $409 S64 S$ 731 : Savings Factor 27 41 55 72 88 [| con . $i538 $285 S3é' $549 S$ 636 Sevings Factor 2 15 22 30 | | | ! aaa = i a 5 + Copy these two numbers onto line 3 of the i ee) coe S296 eee $593 ren Sees Energy Checklist at the back of the book. | i Savings Factor 170 256 341 | 84 5638 ; | : ppaillicen $246 $369 S422 aS S$ 220 The orange number, your cost, goes in the 3 “ Savings Factor 49 is 97 130 162 orange box, the grey number, your savings | 8 ||) Cort $210 $315 S420 | $560 S$ 700 factor, goes in the grey box. | “ Savings Factor 18 27 26 438 60 | i : z ‘ } PART 2: ACLOSER LOOK 1S This attic is a little harder to insulate than an unfin- ished attic because some parts are hard to reach. A con- tractor can do a complete job, but if you do-it-yourself, there will probably be uy] ai You need to find out if there’s eno Depending on what your house is like, you may or may not be able to measure your insulation by getting into the unfinished spaces in your attic through a door or hatchway. 1. 1F YOU CAN GET IN, measure the depth of insul- ation. If you have 9 inches or more of insulation everywhere, you have enough and you can skip the rest of this page. nv {F YOU CAN'T GET INTO THE UNFINISHED PARTS OF YOUR ATTIC AT ALL, have a contract- or measure the insulation for you. Ask him how much is there, and use these figures to complete page 17 and full out the Energy Checklist. , you go to take a look at i of the depth of insulation that’s already t it this information in a minute. 16 You may have already found out that do-it-yourself because you can’t get into the ur part of your attic. If you can get in, there are some good things you can do yourself to insulate it. Depending on your particular-attic you may be able to do one or more of these: A. INSULATE ATTIC CEILING already there. B. INSULATE OUTER ATTIC RAFTERS “Outer attic rafters” are the parts of the roof shown in the picture below: You should consider insulating them if: — there’s no insulation between the rafters; and — there’s room for more insulation in the outer attic floor and in the “k fin ee walls’ that separate the ished and unfinished parts of the C. INSULATE OUTER ATTIC GABLES “Outer attic gables” are the little triangular walls shown in the picture. You should insulate them if you insulate the outer attic rafters. aarp » involved in dois + to see how t If you want to estimate costs and savings for contractor installation, go on to page 18. IN THE BANK ... OR UP THE CHIMN big are the areas you want to insu Multiply the length times the width (in feet) of each C.OUTER ATTIC GABLES (the grea of these triangles is area that you can insulate. only half the length times the height.) length X height +2 = area Xs $22 @. ATTIC CEILING length X width = area x = Muhiply by the number of gable ends to get the total area. be OUTER ATTIC RAFTERS (there may be several areas youll need to add together here) length X width = area xX =e ie vs ace Tet ts 5. YOUF c 2. Your Savit tgs Facta: 3.Your Cost ATTIC CEILING: 3°44 For each part of your attic that you've measured, check below about how much insulation is already there. For If there's no existing insulation: each row you've checked, multiply your area times the X $0.37 = number written to the right: area If there's up to 2 inches of existing insulation: ATTIC CEILING X $0.24 = O none eX .38 area O 0-2 inches ___s X .09 If there’s 2 to 4 inches of existing insulation: OD 2-4 inches on xX 04 xX $0.13 = . area OUTER ATTIC RAFTERS (existing insulation will be in the floor and knee walls) OUTER ATTIC RAFTERS: O none es IK 23 a If there’s up to 2 inches of existing insulation: 0 0-2inches _--_=sX-~—C—wOOD a % $0.24 = O 24 inches _____X_.05 ia Ou) If there's from 2 to 4 inches of exist nsulation: OUTER ATTIC GABLES (existing insulation will be in X $0.13 = the floor and knee walls) area 0 none ae ae es OUTER ATTIC GABLES: O O-2inches == X~—C«wOG X$0.13 = area O 24 inches _____si X .03 GO TO THE ENERGY CHECKLIST t end of the book. On line 3, “Insulate Your Attic’, ite your total cost in the ora Dox and your savings tor in the grey box. TOTAL Add the results from each row you've filled out to get your Savings Factor. PART 2: ACLOSER LOOK 17 differ a lot in how I of how much it wouid cost you. If age 53. To see how much insulation you only a 2s, follow your attic. Round them off to the nesrest multiply them together: length X width = area —__ X___= Go up and measure the depth of existing insulation, if you haven't already. ; a 7 eaey: Check the number of squure feet below that’s closest to . , . , ; your finished attic area. Check the box below that’s closest to the depth you find. Usually, there’s the same thickness in all parts of the attic. [f there are different thicknesses, figure the average depth and check it below | ec * Po 300 550 800 1100 1400 — T T : ¥ vy y 7 7 ¥ 7 7 7 op 2 eAasQ LA JAS Fe nas, . ee ee en — | $221 S469 | Sé41 | S745 | oyy toread tnecnart 208 316 | 572 | 721 10559 Read down and across f he boxes you've | 1 ma |. 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Generally, you get what you pay for — if you spend more, you get better insulation. he least expensive is mineral fiber insulation. There — urethane foam is not good in are two kinds; rock wool and glass fiber. Either k ity control proolems with ureaformal- can be blown into the wall by means of a special dehyde-based foam require that you choose a machine. qualified installer. a 1 Measure the perimeter — the total distance around { | the outside — of each story of your house that has 7 | frame walls. | | Measure around the heated parts only. Measure in ——— feet to the nearest ten feet. First story perimeter feet Write the perimeters for each story over here: SPs . = y a Second story perimeter feet If you have a finished, heatedsattic, measure the Third st . . . widths of the end walls of the attic only. Add up ird story perimeter = ____ feet the width, of all these walls and write the total to Finished attic end walls As feet the right: = —” Add up all the numbers you’ve written and write Se— TOTAL feet the total number of feet of walls here: LINEAR FEET OF WALLS 100 150 200 250 300 409 Check the number of feet at the right that’s closest LF. LF. LF. LF. LF. LF. to the number of feet of the walls you found above. UW CI CL J LI yy yy ¥ ¥ 4 4 i ¥ . Cost $297 S556 $ of Sa ‘ Mineral Fiber S| Savings Factor 100 155 a Cost 147 $671 Cellulosic Fiber = ~ Savings Factor 110 170 Ureaformaidehyde— se] Cox $5S6 Se34 | = Based Foam Savings Factor 115 175 | Look at the or estimated costs for inst See cost is T, your savi 1 out which cost you're willing to Dox on line 5 of gs factor into aw EY 20 IN THE BANK ...OR UP THE CHIMNE Ifyou live inac ate where your hezting bill is big enough to be 2 worry, it’s g 3 g y> a good idea to insulate the underside of your house. It won't save much on air conditioning, but it will save on heating. The underside of your house looks like one of these. Choose w Pictures and descriptions looks like your house, and go to the pa ich of these indicated. A. A flat concrete slab sitting on the ground: There’s not much that you can easily do to insulate this type of foundation, and since it’s hard to tell how imuch insulation is already there, it’s hard to tell what your savings would be. Therefore, no cost and savings figures are given here for slab insulation. Go on to the next section on page 25. oO A crawl space with walls around it: If you have a crawl space that you can seal tightly in winter, you can insulate its walls and the ground around its outer edges. See page 22. C. A floor over a garage, porch or open crawl space: If there’s an open space under your floor that you can’t seal off tightly from the outside air, the place to insulate is in the floor, between the joists. See page 23. D. Walls of a heated basement that stick out of the ground: If you have a basement that is heated and used as a living area, it may be worth your while to insulate the basement walls down to a depth of two t below the ground. See page 24. —. Acombination of the above types: Your house may be part heated basement and part crawl space, or some other combination. To estimate your costs and savings, treat each of the parts separately and go to the pages dealing with each part. There are three separate lines on the Energy Checklist: Insulate Crawl Space Walls Insulate Floor Insulate Basement Walls You can fill out as many of these as apply to you, and see which are most important for you to do. PART 2: ACLOSER LOOK If your house (or part of it) sits on top of a crawl space that can be tightly sealed off from the outside air in the winter the cheapest and best place to insulate it is around the outside walls and on the adjacent ground inside the space: 3 oa eit? i r Lani? WOU nswer these two questions: ff Po 1. Is there mo insulation at all around the crawl space walls or under the floor? 2. Is your crawl space high enough to get in there to do the work? If the answer to cither of these questions is “No” don’t insulate here. Skip the rest of this page. If your answer to both questions is “Yes”’, fill out this page. Your costand savings . : 2.how mucha It es a diff work yourself or a contractor. Doing it your- self is hard work, but you'll save a lot of money once you're through. If you’re not sure which route you want to take — do-it-yourself or con- tractor — turn to page 56 to see what doing-it- yourself involves. TO ESTIMATE THE COST IF YOU'RE DOING-IT- YOURSELF: Multiply the total distance around your crawl space (the number you wrote in at the bottom of the last column) times $0.80, the cost per running foot: FEET (fill in) X $0.80 PER RUNNING FOOT s DO-IT-YOURSELF COST TO ESTIMATE THE COST IF A CONTRACTOR'S DOING THE WORK: Multiply the distance around your crawl space that you wrote in at the bottom of the last column by $1.10, the cost per running foot. FEET (fill in) X $1.10 PER RUNNING FOOT. Ss CONTRACTOR COST ante wee HS Si oO S a ns To get your savings factor, multiply the distance around your crawl space times 54. around the out ° awl space (don’t include areas underneath porches, and other unheated areas). | j here, in feet (vou'll need | it in a minute): | 22 FEET (fill in) X 0.54 RUNNING FOOT SAVINGS aaah SAVINGS FACTOR . OR UP THE CHIMNEY [RISUL ATE 2. fou bigts your floor? VO Lie FLOOR m . - = the area of the floor that you plen to = If It’s a Rectangle: Measure the length and width of the floor in feet and multiply them together. l length X width = area Xx If It’s a Combination of Rectangles: Brezk it down into rectangles. For ezch rectangle, measure its length and its width and multiply them together. Add these numbers to get the total area. oe 2 | i = There are two cases where it’s good to insulate your ength X width area floor: 1 Xx _ = } Ie meee: = 1. You have a crawl space that you 3 x can’t seal off in winter — for ex- ample, your house stands on piers . You have a garage, porch, or other T T Vv total area 3.f f ¢. auax rt oh Por 3.How toread the chart Check the number of square feet below that’s closest to the floor area to be insulated that you found above. fe CE erick ims tert? ETOCS yeu insula Le Fes Choose either the “do-it-yourself or ‘‘contrac- 1 above). Read cold unheated space with heated rooms above it: tor” column in the chart (see 1. Is your floor uninsulated? 5 down that column untl you come to the row > f F ik . + 2. Is the floor accessible? next to the number of square feet you've — If it’s above a crawl space, is the crawl space checked. Circle that box. high enough for a person to work in it? No Y a SQUARE Yourself Contractor If your answer to any of these questions is “‘No” don’t FEET = os Rmenlanal the & ne s thi S$ 24 $ 56 Cost insulate the floor. Skip the rest of this page. x Sees 200 ” 58 5 Savings Factor 4 Ves | 542 $112 | Cost oo oe : 400 _j-* 116 116 | Savings Factor If your answer to both questions is ‘“Yes”, fill out this SiG Sieyaalic 7 6 ost 600 [ae 173 173 Savings Factor $106 $250 Cost ‘ml “2 - . soo | pe 260 250 | Savings Factor Your costand savings ee 2, - . 1200 i 347 34 Savings Factor : To get a quick estimate of your cost and savings, follow S169 = a — ter 2, and 3 thi Se SIG es ost steps 1, 2, and 3 on this page. 1600 [+3 462 £62 Savings |bactor 7 Turn to the Energy Checklist at the end of the book. 4 Which -eathod ? Go to line 4b, “Insulate Floor”. Write the orange Bese Ce soo EB Ile i number from the box you've circled into the orang Decide whether you want to do it yourself or calla box on that line, and the grey number into the grey contractor. Look at pzge 58 to help you decide. box next to it. PART 2: A CLOSER LOOK 23 re ann oe a a ete ee If you have a basement thet you use as a living or work space and that has air outlets, radiators, or baseboard units to heat it, you may find that it will pay to adda layer of insulation to the inside of the wall. The cost en below do not allow for the cost of refin- “a viata - MICILGS s aren’t insulated and if your base- m agi ight above ground is two feet or more, then it pays to insulate them in almost any climate if you do the work yourself. If your basement’s average hei ght above ground is less than two feet, then it pays to insulate these walls yourself if your Heating Factor is ore than 0.7. If you want to have a contractor do it, your Heatin tor should be 0.5 or more if your basement’s averag: t above ground is two feet or more. If the height i you should not have the work done. @ Ga a an Ee Ne ner erred | follow BAA A CMT A i SO Visass toma te SITaStss Meusure the length of each wall that sticks 2 or more feet above ground and add the lengths together. Write the total number of feet here: feet. length of wall Estimate to the nearest foot how far on the average these walls stick up a¥ove ground. For example, suppose your house is on a slope like this: The average height above ground for this house is three feet. Write your average height above ground ° + tt eae rd 2 vy tpusatmecnart At the top of the chart, check the height of your basement walls above ground that’s closest to the amount you wrote above in Step 1. At the side of the chart, check either “do-it-yourself” or “contractor” AVERAGE HEIGHT ABOVE THE GROUND O Feet 2 Feet 4 Feet 6 Feet 8 Feat -[t- a 2 Cost Ca }} 31-8 Savings Yourself “—| 0.2 Contractor Multiply the top number in the square you circled times the total length of the walls that you wrote down in Step 1. The result is your estimated total cost s Xx = $ tep number length of wall Multiply the bottom number in th t you cir- ed times the tal lenet f the walls c OL cled times the total length of the walls to get your savings factor bottem number recklist at the end of the book. Turn to the Go to Line 4 the total cost y line and the s same line. IN THE BANK ...OR UP THE CHIMi i { The table below tells you what percent of your heating bill you'll save by turning down your thermostat. Look at the map above to see which zone you live in. Read the column in the table for that zone. Circle either the top or bottom number in that column — you'll need it after you figure out your heating bill. Circle the top number if you want to see what you'll save with a 5-degree turn- down from your usual setting. Circle the bottom number if you want to see what you'll save with an 8-degree turn-down from your usual setting. ZONE1 ZONE2 ZONE 3 5° turn-down 14% 17% 25% 8° turadown 19% 24% 35% Table 1 PART 2: ACLOSER LOOK pore trertemenernee <i ene ener eure ure If you have whole-house air conditic about 3 per cent of your air conditioni degree you tum up your thermostat. Usu y, 2boutad degree turn-up will still be comfortable; above that the sir conditioning system will have trouble keeping the house cool during the hot part of the day. Figure out how many degrees you can turn up your thermostat, then multiply the number of degrees by 3 to get your percent savings: g. yOu can save ill for each ee KAS degree turn-up %savings ROSE TS PST LTE KR b YOUN LEAK The method for figuring out your heating bill depends on what kind of fuel you use. Pick the method below that zpplies to you: NOTE: You may heat with two fuels; for example, most of your house may be heated with oil or cas, while some newer rooms may heve electric heat. In this case, do this section once for each fuel, and add the results together. &.Otlorcoat heat If you have an oil or coal furnace that heats your house but nor your hot water, then all of your oil or coal bill goes io heating. Simply add up your fuel bills for lst year. Write the total here: $ If your furnace heats your hot water too, add up your fuel bills for last year and multiply the total by 8: Ss xX 8 S$ total fuel bill your heating bill 8.Gas or electric heat If you have gas heat OR If you fave electric heat WITHOUT whole-house electric air conditioning: 1. Write your January electric or gas bill (whichever kind of heat you have) on line | at the top of the next page. 2. Find the city nearest you from the table on page 27 =‘ There’s a month written beside the name of that city. Write your electric or gus bill for that month on line 2. 3. Subtract line 2 froin line 1 end write the difference on line 3. 4. Write the number from column A of the table for the city nearest you on line 4. 25 ee eee bg orc gr ea 5. Multiply That num ine 3 by line 4; write the result on line 5 ber's your estimated heating bill If you have electric heat AND whole-house air condition- ing: Follow steps 1-5 above, except for one thing: in step 4, use the number from column B of the table (instead of column A) for your city, and write it on line 4 SEE Cine SUBTRACT —S Line 2 Se Lines} MULTIPLY X Line 4 If you have whole-house air conditioning, estimate how much it’s costing you each year — Use this method: Look up the city nearest you in the table on the next page. [f there’s an asterisk (*) after the name of the city, your air conditioning savings will be insignificant skip steps 1-5. If there’s no asterisk, keep on going. 1. Write your Judy electric bil on line | below. 2. Find the city nearest you from the table on the next page. There’s a month written beside the name of that city. Write your electric bill for that month on line 2. 3. Subtract line 2 from line 1 and write the difference on line 3. 4. If you have electric heat as well as air conditioning, write the number from column D of the table for the city nearest you on line 4./f you have gas, oil, or coal heat, write the number from column C of the table for the city nearest you on line 4 5. Multiply line 3 by line 4: write the result on line 5. That number's your estimated air conditioning bill. Soe Line 1 sugTRACT —S Line 2 DF cmsoctecnones, La a MULTIPLY X Line 4 YOUR AIR CONDITIONING faa BILL : ee 26 fia VD HRLITS NOW THAT YOU'VE FOUND YOUR HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING BILLS, YOU'RE READY TO FIND OUT HOW MUCH YOU CAN SAVE EACH YEAR ON THESE MEASURES. 1. YOUR THERMOSTAT Multiply your heating bill by the percent you circled in table 1 on the previous page and divide by 100: Ss x +100 = heating bill % savings dollar savings 9 g If you have whole-house air concitionir your air conditioning bill by the perceat you figure on the previous page and divide by 100: Ss x air cond. bill = 100=S % savings dollar savings Add up your thermostat savings for heating and air conditioning; Ss + S$ =S$ heat savings air cond. savings total savings Write your total savings into the grey box on line 6 cf the Energy Checklist at the end of the book. 2. YOUR OIL OR COAL FURNACE } viced recently, multiply your heating bill by .1 i have the furnace serviced. If you have an oil or coal furnace that hasn’t been ser- f Ss | Ovi = 1S: heating bill dollar savings Write the result in the grey box on line 7 of the Energy Checklist at the end of the book.* 3. YOUR GAS FURNACE If you have a gas furnace that hasa 63 "t been servi recently, you can save too — see p age peg 4. YOUR AIR COND If you hav serviced recer by 0.1 if you ha ITIONER tral air conditioner that hasa‘t been tly, multiply your air conditioning bill ave the unit serviced.* $s X01 =S air cond. bill collar savings Write the result in the grey box on line 8 of th Checklist at the end of the book. * An estimate of cost has been entered for you on the Enarsy Checklist. For greater accuracy, use an estimate from your own heating or cooling specialist. IN THE BANK... OR UP THE CHIMNEY Electric Electric Electric Electric Gas Heat AIC GesOr 4 AC Electric With With Electric Electric With Heat Electric = AIC Electric Heat alc Electric Alone AIC Alone Heat Alone Alone Heat Location Month A 8 c 0 Location Month A 8 c o AleDama Neveca Montgomery May 4.2 $.2 73 73 Eno Sept. 68 £2 22 : Alaska Las Veces Aon 47 “g 41 5.7 Anchorage duly 78 78 : 2 New Hampshire aficon Concord duly 35 5.9 Flagstaff July 6.4 66 F New Jeney Phoenix April 4.4 5.1 5.1 63 Atlantic City Sear. 5.4 3.7 Si 8.2 Arkansas New Mexico Linle Rock May 43 47 5.6 5.9 Raton Sept. 6.3 65 3.7 . a Silver City Seot. 47 s3 5.7 5.9 California Bishop Sept. 5.2 78 35 5.1 New York Eureka duty 17.0 17.0 - a New York Sept. $.1 5.9 2.0 Los Anceles Oct. 6.0 71 10.5 s Rochester Seat. 6.1 5.0 Bakerstield April 43 5.3 4g 2.0 North Carolina San i Sept. 87 7.0 . . Rateich Ray, 29 52 53 63 Colorado May 4.3 42 7.0 5.9 Alamosa July 6.0 50 . Cenver Sept. 6.2 6.3 a5 . July 5.3 55 : : Connecticut Ohio : New Haven Sept 5.8 61 47 a Yourgstown Sept. 6.1 “eg 52 . Delaware Cincinnati May 5.4 54 4.0 10.0 Dover May 5.7 58 28 26 Oklahoma rict of Columbia Ortahoma City May 45 <3 39 6.1 Washington May 5.3 as 43 6.7 Oregon Florida Salem July 6.1 6s . . Miamit Feb. t $6 9.6 Mestord May 74 63 33 13 April a4 49 5.6 6.5 Pennsylvania Nay 5.7 38 10.5 May 23 a2 47 S.4 Sept. 5.9 $4 . Savannah April 4.6 aul 5.3 6S Rhode island idaho Provigence Sept 3.9 6.1 4.7 . Boise Sept. 5.9 6.0 Ba 7 SouihiCaclins Minois Charieston April 47 £9 62 Chicago Sept. 55 5.8 S2 es Greeaville-Scartan- Springtieid May S.4 $5 26 as burg May 36 5.0 48 54 Cairo May 47 49 42 s3 South Oakots! Indiana . Rapic Cixy Sent. 8.3 63 32 indienapolis Sept. 8.6 6.1 65 a TEnnassea lowa Knoxville May 5.1 S3 A 6.5 Des Moines Sept. Sul S.4 8 ise Memphis May 43 +3 $2 5.6 Dubuque Sept. 5.8 6.0 1 - Texas Kances April 4a 4s 55 7.0 Wichita May 49 5.0 3.8 58 April 4.6 5.0 3.0 77 Goociend Sept. 5.7 5.8 3.4 28 April 40 £8 sg 7.0 May 47 $2 68 9.3 Kentucky Lexington M 5.6 5.6 40 114 pe ay Sept 56 57 22 6.4 s 7 i : April at 48 5.9 6.5 mr eae 5 27 Shreveport April 46 5.0 4g 7.7 Vermont : Burlington July 56 59 . . Maine Portland July 5.7 57 . e May 5.1 £6 52 30 Maryland Seitimore May 515 5.6 39 9.0 Massachusers a“ Ss 20 : ha ee ae . Worcester Sept. 62 64 a4 * : Sept “a a3 Bio) vi West Virginia MC ae jak 55 Pr . : Charleston May 57 87 42 26 oe a Sept 65 5.2 4.0 : Minoo . Dviuth July 6.0 61 . . Saree - ai a iataries ahay 62 6 23 . Milwevhee July 5.7 62 Mississippi eS Mi a 5 é 2 . Jackson April 29 53 5.0 17 aoe i " Be ° Missouri St. Louis 48 43 4 59 Springtield 5.6 57) 27 91 Montani Helens a0 58 6.0 ° : “Ale conzitioning ravings not significant Nebraska oning bilt i Oma Sept. 5.3 5S a 7 tioning bill i Scousbluff Sept. 6.1 6.2 3. . tavings not significant. PART 2: ACLOSER LOOK the Savings Factors for the improvements you're considering. en with your Heating Factor and (if you conditionin 3») your Cooling em re’s one Heating Fact Combine have whole-house air and you'll cet dollar savings. The and one Cooling Factor for your house, and they 2 are ng based on where you live, and how much you pay f fuel you use for heating (Gnd cooling). The Table page and the next has your Heating and Cootin: in it, are two ways to use the Table: approximate way, and a slower but’ more cna that uses your own fuel dill to get your own Factors. 2 wey el ‘dine qui cceaiesy) row on the chart below that’s for the city st you. Look 3 (A,B,CD). Circle t Heating Factor. t the first four columas in that row le number for your fuel. It’s your If you have whole-house air conditioning, also cir number in column E of the same row. Cooling Factor. cle the That’s your Important: Check the fuel prices given in columas F through I. They were collected in mid-1977 and were Cooling Facto mpare them with the pay for fuel (see * ‘How Much Do You Reaily Fuel” below). If you fi ind a significant difference, figure your Heating and Cooling Factors in“ 2. Using Your Own Bill” used to figure the Heating and Columns A through E. Co below. Instructions for using these Factors are on the Ener Checklist at the end of the book. 79 A thas Wisin your ouvvn Dill 5 a You can calculate your Heating Factor (and your Cooling Factor, if you have whole-house air cond , using the figures from your own utility bills. itioning To figure your exact Heating Factor, find t Multiplier for your city and your fuel (Colur umns J-M), and muluply it by the price you pay for heating fuel. Make sure you use the right units: gas— 4/100 Cu-Ft., electricity — ¢/Kwh, coal — ¢/Ib. (see “How Much Do You Really Pay for Fuel” )s 2 Heating x your fuel price Heating Factor Enter on the Energy Checklist your Heating Multiplier find the Cool- N for your city, and multiply To figure out your exact Cooling Factor, ing Multiplier in Colum e it by the price you pay for electricity in cents per kilowatt hour, (see “How Much Do You Really Pay for Fuel”): Xx your Cooling Multiplier Cooling Factor Enter on the Energy Checklist lectricity price (g/Kwh) How Much Do You Reaily Pay for Fuel? Your true cost for 100 cu. ft. of gas, a kilowatt of clec tricity, etc., is sometimes preity well hidden in your bill. Call your utility company and ask t hem for the true cost (including all “fuel adjustment” factors and taxes) of the les¢ unit of fuel that you buy every month. Use this cost to figure your Heating and Cooling Factor. Heating Factors Cooling Fuel coss 19g Multipliers aul tice | cos | Fe" Gas ow | gee | coat eee | Co | ™ 300 cu. te. | egal ekad en. ic | o E F G | H | \ it M N Mamigamery 34 = 12 189 - oss? 9-39 123 - oO 203 - - OOO 72 - a 133 - onss 2 - 7 132 - - 1330 ase W 149 | - - o749 as - Pe) - - 22 - 08 - 23 = 7 | 7 7 38 - or - “ en |e o - - ‘alles os | E es 23 IN THE BANK... OR UP THE CHIMNEY Heating Factors Cooling Fue! costs hers Couling Factor igi Gas | OW | Elec | Coal on | tee | Coat Cas Ou | tee! | Coat = gal hah etd. 1 A 8 c oO E F S H i J K L M N COnNecticuT ww even ss | 67] 177] - 13 2009 | seer] 4.26 = CELAWARE Dover 28 os 65 - C7 1$.30 “055 160 - oc. Veashington 41 | ss] 132] 69 18 28.26 2.22 “85 FLOHIOA ni 30 | of} o7 | = ss 207 = Tallahasee oF 28. 37 - 73 13.80 2eg = GEORGIA Atlante va | so] - «9 = so ~ £63 Savannah 10 23 - - - $0 - - 1O4HO Boise a9 | $2] 36] - 3 €2 - ILLINOIS Chicago 2s | 60] ss] se os 19.28 a2 Soringtieis 26 | «¢ | 77 | 33 42 18.16 2:82 Cano 22 | 40] 22] 2 20 17285 2 INOIANA Indieneootis 30 | so} «8 | so 0s 18.27 3.38 tows Des Momnes, 28 38 - - - 1492 - Oubucue 24 8s - - - W926 - KANSAS. Wichiva is |ar | so | - co 9.70 < Goosiang 14] 48 | ae] - 03 6.16 - KENTUCKY Lexington 28 | so} 62] - os 17.26 - LOUISIANA Baron Rouge oS - 28 - 2 7.10 - Shreveport Oo] - 38] - 16 720 - 1.77 = AINE Porttand 6s | 72 | 10¢ | - 03 zeoo | 2470) 225 - RYLAND Ealtimore “Ss $8 $8 1 12 27.32 ASSACHUSETTS Worcester 73 77: | 1.09 - 06 12.16 - MICHIGAN Lansing S6 i 65 | 130 70 OS 22.47 278 MINNESOTA Duluth 60 76 = e os 23.20 a tinneaoolis 33a | .72 4] - = - . MAISSiSSIPPE Jackson aw - - . ot 10.50 = SOUAL St. Louis 2 | 76 - 3 14.12 = Springtieia W7 49 4s - o7 10.50 - MONTANA Helena 25 | - i oy 1245 = 1.55 - NEBRASKA Omana 23 $8 a) - 02 17.85 ry = Sconspiutf 2 | 52] se] - oe 14.09 ? - NEVADA Elko 33 83 a - C2 1778 175 al Les Vegas é hy <6 - 73 12.9 208 = NEWHAMPSHIFE — Concord 70 | .73 | 1.05 | = cs 33.29 2.30 - NEW JERSEY Atlantic City 2 62 | 62 | 1.20 ) 2284 3.02 2.28 NEW MEXICO Faron 7 | = | 103] = ca £60 - 2.38 - Silver City co | - eg | - 10 7.05 - 2.63 - New YORK New York City 65 | 68 | 1.7 76 12 38.28 | <oce| <36 +40 Rochener s3 | 76 | 136 | 62 97 2405 | 4653 2s 2.95 NORTH CAROLINA Aaleigh 30 | 82] 95 | 6¢ 12 ret e530] 2.35 450 Vilmingion 7 35 ss 70 1 7 <5 43.63 2.38 <6 NORTH CAKOTA Bismarck Ss? - 1.21 - co 26.50 - 249 - oHI0 Youngiiown 29 | 69 os sss 3 | 2.62 180 Cincinnati ie | 47 $3 c7 12.79 se] 168 240 CKLAHOMA Oxlahoma City a} - a | - 20 17.45 - 2.80 - OREGON Saiem s7 | 72 - 02 26.21 24.20} 2.17 - Mestors sa | 7s |i0s | - 6 28.11 <2.20| 2.12 - PENNSYLVENIA — Philacelphia 49 | 63] 102} 6) 32 2€87 46.20 385 Pinsburgh 38 | 60] 106 | sa 03 1825 4478 2.69 RHODE ISLAND Providence 4s | 68 [137] - ] 23.03 42.20 - SOUTH CAROLINA Charlesion 19 | .27 | «a ] = 20 21.58 2 - Greenville Sparrenburg 1a} 26 | se] - : 1623 ? - SOUTH DAKOTA — Rapid City 22 | sa] 7] - cs 458 41.76 Es TENNESSEE Knorvilie 19 | 26 | 61] oat 12 1620 259 Memphis ww faa] ss] oa 7 9.25 20 | i TEXAS Austin oy } - si} - 3.60 - | Dellas ov | - 2) - 7.90 - | ousion os | - 2} = $00 - i Lubbock is | - sa] - 12.46 - UTAH Sait Leke City 23 | se] a7] - 1156 - Mitord 23 | so] - 13.39 - VERMONT 63 ee | 1.20 - of 2781 - SIRGINIA 24 $0 72 6. 12 16.E6 WASHINGTON Olympia 7 | 20} 29] = o1 22.19 272] 1.8 - Walla Walla 2) “6 “5 - os wo 45.72 181 = ST VIRG Charleston 32 $0 7s 3 10 26 Elvins as | 62] 1.10] 12 “ 105 | WISCONSIN Miteeukes ee | os] - | 72 5 202 368 | WY GIAING Casper ai - av} - 03 1680 - | 200 = | 1 PART 2: ACLOSER LOOK 29 Hatisat v heat PART 3: E 13 in all. A section works like this; how hardis rt? it Tools you'll need Safety items to i Wh job right. R-Value Buying Insulating TAB my WINDOWS AND DOORS Caulk the Openings in Your Home............ 34 Weatherstrip Your Windows)... .n.-.-20< cimwe vain 36 Weatherstrip Your Doors ssna.cmes case wnrmn 3 Install Plastic: Stonm Windows . 22%: sees cmai oe 40 Install Single Pane Storm Windows............ 41 ‘Install Combination Storm Windows .......... 42 a1] Combination Storm Doors............. 43 JLATION PART 3: HOW TO DO IT MOV TO EO EP This part is divided into sections, each one treating an energy-saving step— What kind of materials How much material Should you do it yourself? - a quick rundown to help you decide whether you can handle it yourself or if you need the se i ‘izes of a professional. {f you’re doing it yourself: How much material clude Getting it done, step by step <ind of materials OR if you want to hire a contractor to do it, how to make sure he does the Signing a contract What to check on you may need Some general information that could be helpful: Materials Choosing a Contractor Geiting Financing OF CONTENTS Insulate Your Finished Attic) ax sen: ves cau: ea Do You Need a Vapor Barrier or More Ventilation in Your Attic Insulate Your Wood Frame Walls te Your Crawl Space Walls te Your Floors .......... In Your Basement Walls ......... SAVING ENERGY WITH YOUR HEATIN AIR CONDITIONING, AND WATER HEATING CHOOSING A CONTRACTOR GETTING FINANCING ner) ral ooIS 1. Ladder Caulking gun Caulking cartridges fen Oakum, glass fiber strips, caulking cotton, or sponge rudber u . Putty knife or large screwdriver (oe EOE waiciy You'll need to use a ladder to reach some of the areas which reed to be caulked. Be sure you use it safely. Level and block the ludder in place. Have a helper hold it if possible. Don't try to reach that extra little bit — get down and move the ladder. Carry your caulking gun with a sling so that you can use 'S 3! both hands climbing the ladder. Where a house needs tabs caulked 1. Between window drip caps (tops of windows) and siding. 2. Between door drip caps and siding. 3. Atjoints between window frames and siding. 4. Atjoints between door frames and siding. 5. Between window sills and siding. 6. At corners formed by siding. 7. At sills where wood structure meets the foundation. 8. Outside water faucets, or other special breaks in the outside house surface. 9. Where pipes and wires penetrate the ceiling below an unheated attic. 10. Between porches and main body of the house. 11. Where chimney or masonry meets siding. 12. Where storm windows mect the window frame, except for drain holes at window sill. Vhat you'llneed iking compound is available in these basic types: 1. Oil or resin base caulk; readily available and will bond to most surfaces — wood, masonry and metal; not very durable but lowest in first cost for this type of application. 2. Latex, butyl or polyvinyl based caulk; all readily available and will bond to most surfaces, more durable, but more expensive than oil or resin based caulk. 3. Elastomeric caulks; durable and most expensive; includes licones, polysulfides and polyurethanes; the instructions provided on the labels should be followed. How much s of caulking com- number needed will <s to be filled. Rough Estimating the number of cartridge pound required is difficult since the vary greaily with the size of cr estimates are: cartrid Receiver ine 4 Before applying caulking compound, clean area of paint build-up, dirt, or deteriorated caulk with solvent and putty knife or large screwdriver. Ea F ra wide cracks like those at the sills (where the s igusé mects the foundation) with ozkum, glass fiber strips, etc.) i] ex ra insulation Drawing a good bead of caulk will take a little practice. First attempts may be a bit messy. Make sure the bead In places where you can’t quite fill the gaps, finish the overlaps both sides for a tight seal. job with caulk. bead may be necessary to : s to both sides. (2) PART 3: HOW TO DO IT wena Fy een E " Ag Hou RIECT Neel teed tne Weath f windows can be accomplished by even the in tienced handyman. A minimum of tools and skills i But before starting, make sure that both the moving parts of your windows (the sash), and the ch ls that the sash slide in aren’t so rotted that they won’t holt small nails used for weatherstripping. If they are b rotted, don’t weatherstrip, but consider replaci entire window unit first. Call your lumberyard or window dealer for an evaluation or cost estimate. Tools 1. Hammer and nails byw Upper story windows may be a problem. You should de able to do all work from inside, but avoid awkward leaning out of windows when tacking wzatherstr 1g into place. If you find you need to use a ladder observe the precautions on page 34. Thin spring metal Installed in the channel of window so it is virtually invisicle. Somewhat difficult to install. Very durable. Roiled vinyl ng. Visible when installed. Easy to install. Durable. ras metal strips or rolled How much Weatherstripping is purchased either by the running foot or in kit form for each window. In either case you'll have to make a list of your windows, and measure them moving parts of each window type you have, and com plete the list below: Type Size Quantity X length req'd = Total 1. Double- 7 ( X ( ) = Ng 4 I ) = (x () (ee) ae ( d= ss) OH i= (ee ) = 1 (———) K [ ) = 2 (ey x _— w& A it 4. Sliding 1 ( ) pane x u x x Ii 3 Hoye Total length of weatherstripping required Be sure to allow for waste. If you i for your v Thin spring metal ~~ — ee ~ a ek ae STRIP WINDOW © a >" GAMB CRANNEL =| prep en, strip in between the sash and the channel. Tack in place into the casing. Do not cover the pulleys in the upper channels. LOWER. SASH Install strips the full width of the sash on the bottom of the lower sash bottom rail and the top of the upper sash top rail. Qa. OPEN OUTSIDE b CIOSE; 3 Then attach a strip the full width of the window to the ash bottom rail. Countersink the nails slightly s t catch on the lower sash top rail. upper Rolled vinyl tilting windows should be weatherstripped with the vinyl nailed to the window casing so that, as the window shuts, it compresses the roll. Adhesive-backed foam strip PART 3: HOW TO DO IT GQ ETE. TU ri ker a. — ip your doors even if you're not a an. There are several types 0 doors, each with its own level o urability and degree of ins one for the threshold. 1. Adhesive backed foam: Tools ife or shears, Tape m ure Evaluation — extremely ° stalled, not very durable, more effective on doors than neal TNaOWws. 3. Foam rubber with wood backing: Tools Hammer, nails, Hand saw, Tape measure Evaluation — easy ta install, visible when installed, not very durable. Installation — nail strip snugly against the closed door. Space nails 8 to 12 inches apart. } Tools to install, visible when installed, 4. Spring metal: Tools Tin snips Hammer, nails, Tape measure Evaiuation extremely durs ' IN THE BANK OR UP THE CHIMNEY VWWEATHERSTRIP YOUR DOORS AN EASY DO-IT- YOURSELF PROJECT You can weatherstrip your doors even if you’re not an experienced handyman. There are several types of weatherstripping for doors, each with its own level of effectiveness, durability and degree of installation diffi- culty. Select among the options given the one you feel is best for you. The installations are the same for the two sides and top of a door, with a different, more durable one for the threshold. The Alternative Methods and Materials 1. Adhesive backed foam: Tools Knife or shears, OO Tape measure Evaluation — extremely easy to install, invisible when installed, not very durable, more effective on doors than windows. Installation — stick foam to inside face of jamb. 3. Foam rubber with wood backing: Looks YP oven Hammer, nails, Hand saw, [Ss Tape measure <= Evaluation — easy to install, visible when installed, not very durable. Installation — nail strip snugly against the closed door. j}={- Space nails 8 to 12 inches apart. 2. Rolled vinyl with aluminum channel backing: Lo TOP VIEW Evaluation — easy to install, visible when installed, durable. Tools Hammer, nails, Tin snips Tape measure Installation — nail strip snugly against door on the casing 38 4. Spring metal: Tools Tin snips “Q Hammer, nails, Tape measure Evaluation — easy to install, invisible when installed, extremely durable. Installation — cut to length and tack in place. Lift outer edge of strip with screwdriver after tacking, for better seal. IN THE BANK... OR UP THE CHIMNEY Note: These methods are harder than | through 4. 5. Interlocking metal channels: Tools TOP view Hack saw, Hammer, nails, Tape measure Evaluation — difficult to install (alignment is critical), visible when installed, durable but subject to damage, because they're exposed, excellent seal. Installation — cut and fit strips to head of door first: male strip on door, female on head; then hinge side of door: male strip on jamb, female on door; finally lock side on door, female on jamb. 8. Door Shoes: Tools Screwdriver, Hack saw, Plane, Tape measure SIDE VIEW Evaluation — useful with wooden threshhold that is not worn, very durable, difficult to install (must remove door). Installation — remove door and. trim required amount off bot- tom. Cut to door width. In- stall by sliding vinyl out and fasten with screws. 6. Fitted interlocking metal channels: (J-Strips) Evaluation — very difficult to install, exceptionally good weather seal, invisible when installed, not exposed to possible damage. Installation — should be installed by a carpenter. Not appropnate for do-it-yourself installation unless done by an accomplished handyman. 9. Vinyl bulb threshold: Tools Screwdriver, Hack saw, Plane, LN Tape measure SIDE VIEW Evaluation — useful where there is no threshhold or wooden one is worn out, difficult to install, vinyl will wear but replacements are available. Installation — remove door and trim required amount off bottom. Bottom should have about 1/8” bevel to seal against vinyl. Be sure bevel is cut in right direction for opening. 7. Sweeps: Tools Screwdriver, Hack saw, Tape measure Evaluation — useful for flat threshholds, may drag on carpet or rug. Models that flip up when the door is opened are avail- able (not illustrated). Installation — cut sweep to fit 1/16 inch in from the edges of the door. Some sweeps are installed on the inside and some outside. Check instructions for your particular type. PART 3: HOW TO DO IT 10. Interlocking threshold: Evaluation — very difficult to install, exceptionally good weather seal. Installation — should be installed by a skilled carpenter. 39 Soe Ss Se INSTALL CONBINATION STORM WINDOWS NORMALLY CONTRACTCR INSTALLED Triple track combination’ (windows and screen) storm windows are designed for installation over double-hung and sliding windows. They are permanently installed and can be opened at any time for ventilation. Double-track combination units are also available and they cost less. Both kinds are sold almost everywhere, and can be bought with or without the cost of installa- tion. installation You can save a few dollars (10% to 15% of the purchase price) by installing the windows yourself. But you'll need some tools: caulking gun, drill, and screw driver. In most cases it will be easier to have the supplier in- stall your windows for you, although it will cost more. The supplier will first measure al] the windows where you want storm windows installed. It will take anywhere from several days to a few weeks to make up your order before the supplier returns to install them. Installation should take less than one day, depending on how many windows are involved. Two-very-important—— —— —Sesh—tracks—end yeharaipaing themeniA ae —— items should be checked to make sure the installation is properly done. Make sure that both the window sashes and screen sash move smoothly and seal tightly when closed after installation. Poor installation can cause misalignment. Be sure there is a tightly caulked seal around the edge of the storm windows. Leaks can hurt the performance of storm windows a lot. NOTE: Most combination units will come with two or three 1/4” dia. holes (or other types of vents) drilled through the frame where it meets the win dow sill. This is to keep winter condensation from collecting on the sill and causing rot. Keep these holes clear, and drill them yourself if your com bination units don’t already have them. 42 Selection: Judging Quality Frame finish: A mill finish (plain aluminum)_will oxidize, reducing ease of operation and degrading appearance. An anodized or baked enamel finish is better. - Corner joints: Quality of construction affects the strength and performance of storm windows. Corners are a good piace to check construction. They should be strong and air tight. Normally overlapped corner joints are better than mitered. If you can see through the joints, they will leak air. supposed to reduce air leakage around windows. The depth of the metal grooves (sash tracks) at the sides of the window and the weatherstripping quality makes a big difference in how well storm windows can do this. Compare several types before deciding. Hardware quality: The quality of locks and catches has a direct effect on durability and is a good indicator of overall construction quality. IN THE BANK... OR UP THE CHIMNEY INSTALL COMBINATION STORME BOORS= (ee a ee ed NORMALLY CONTRACTOR INSTALLED Combination (windows and screen) storm doors are designed for installation over exterior doors. They are sold almost everywhere, with or without the cost of installation. installation You can save a few dollars (10% to 15% of the purchase price) by installing doors yourself. But you'll need some tools: hammer, drill, screw driver, and weatherstripping. In most cases, it will be easier to have the supplier install your doors himself. j The supplier will first measure all the doors where you want storm doors installed. It will take anywhere from several days to a few weeks to make up your‘order before the supplier returns to install them. Installation should take less than one-half day. Before the installer leaves, be sure the doors operate smoothly and close tightly. Check for cracks around the jamb and make sure the seal is as air-tight as possible. Also, remove and replace the exchangeable panels (window and screen) to make sure they fit properly and with a weather tight seal. Selection: Judging Quality Door finish: A mill finish (plain aluminum) will oxidize, reducing ease of operation and degrading appearance. An anodized or baked enamel finish is better. PART 3: HOW TO DO IT Corner joints: Quality of construction affects the strength and effectiveness of storm doors. Corners are 2 good place to check construction. They should be strong and air tight. If you can see through the joints, they will leak air. Weatherstripping: Storm doors are supposed to reduce air leakage around your doors. Weatherstripping qualit: makes a big difference in how well storm doors can dc this. Compare several types before deciding. Hardware quality: The quality of locks, hinges an catches should be evaluated since it can have a direc effect on durability and is a good indicator of overa construction quality. Construction material: Storm doors of wood or steel c: also be purchased within the same price range as < aluminum variety. They have the same quality diff ences and should be similarly evaluated. The ch between doors of similar quality but different material primarily up to your own personal taste. BUYING INSULATION From the pages in Part 3 that deal with insulating your house you can get a good idea of what your choice of insulating materials is (see “Materials” at the beginning of each how-to section), how many square feet you need, and whether you need a vapor barrier with your insulation. There are three more things you need to know before you buy: 1. What the R-Value of the insulation should be — your money’s worth in insulation is measured in R-Value. R-Value is a number that tells you how much resistance the insulation presents to heat flowing through it. The bigger the R-Value, the better the insulation. This page lists recommended R-Values for the different parts of the house. 2. What kind of insulation to buy — pages 45 and 46 will help you choose the right kind of insulation for the job you want to do. 3. How thick your insulation should be — For the R-Value and type of insulation you’re going to buy, look at the table at the bottom of page 46 — it'll tell you how many inches of each type of insulation it takes to achieve the R-Value you need. NOTE: If you have a choice of insulating materials, and all your choices are available in your area, simply price the same R-Value for both, and get the better buy. Pay more only for more R-Value. 1. Whatthe R-Valueof the insulation shouldbe: UNFINISHED ATTIC, NO FLOOR Batts, blankets or loose fill in the floor between the joists: HOW MUCH TO AOD IF YOU HAVE ELECTRIC HEAT OR HOW MUCH TO ADD IF THICKNESS OF IF YOU HAVE O1L YOU HAVE ELECTRIC EXISTING HOW MUCH HEAT ANO LIVE IN HEAT ANDO LIVE INA INSULATION To A0D A COLD CLIMATE * COLO CLIMATE > ed 0”-2” R-22 R-30 R-38 2°44" R-11 R-19 R-30 4".6" R-11 R-11 R-19 6-8" None None R-11 * Add this much if: A. You're doing it yourself and your Heating and Cooling Factors add up to more than 0.4, or B. You're hiring a contractor and your Heating and Cooling Factors add up to more than 0.6. ** Add this much if: A. You're doing it yourself and your Heating and Cooling Factors add up to more than 0.7, or B. You're hiring a contractor and your Heating and Cooling Factors add up to more than 1.0. ° 44 FINISHED ATTIC 1. Attic Ceiling — see the table at the left under Un- finished Attic, No Floor. 2. Rafters — contractor fills completely with blow-in insulation. _ 3. Knee Walls — Insulate (5), Outer Attic Rafters instead. 4. Outer Aitic Floors — Insulate (5). Outer Attic Rafters instead. 5. Outer Attic Rafters — Add batts or blankets: If there is existing insulation in (3) and (4), add R-11. If there is no existing insulation in (3) and.(4), add R-19. 6. End Walls — Add batts or blankets, R-11. UNFINISHED ATTIC WITH FLOOR . Do-it-yourself or. Contractor Installed: Between the collar beams — fcllow the guidelines above in Unfinished Attic, No Floor. Rafters and end walls — buy insulation thick enough to fill the space available (usually R-19 for the rafters and R-11 for the end walls). IN THE BANK ...OR UP THE CHIMNEY 8. Contractor Installed Contractor blows loose-fill insulation under the floor. Fill this space completely — see page 44 for the R-Value you should get. FRAME WALLS — contractor blows in insulation to fill the space inside the walls. See page 44 for the R-Value you should get. CRAWL SPACE — R-11 batts or blankets against the wall and the edge of the floor. FLOORS — R-11 batts or blankets between the floor joists, foil-faced. BASEMENT WALLS — R-11 batts or blankets between wall studs. 2. What kindof insulation to buy: BATTS— glass fiber, rock wool Where they're used to insulate: unfinished attic floor unfinished attic rafters underside of floors best suited for standard joist or rafter spacing of 16” or 24”, and space between joists relatively free of obstruc- tions cut in sections 15” or 23” wide, 1” to 7” thick, 4’ or 8’ long with or without a vapor barrier backing — if you need one and can’t get it, buy polyethylene except that to be used to insulate the underside of floors easy to handle because of relatively small size use will result in more waste from trimming sections than use of blankets fire resistant, moisture resistant FOAMED IN PLACE— ureaformaldehyde-based Where it’s used to insulate: finished frame walls fob } moisture resistant, fire resistant may have higher insulating value than blown-in materials more expensive than blown-in materials quality of application to date has been very inconsistent — choose a qualified contractor who will guarantee his work. PART 3: HOW TO DO IT BLANKETS-— glass fiber, rock wool Where they're used to insulate: unfinished attic floor unfinished attic rafters underside of floors best suited for standard joist or rafter spacing of 16” or 24”, and space between joists relatively free of obstruc- tions cut in sections 15” or 23” wide, 1” to 7” thick in rolls to be cut to length by the installer with or without a vapor barrier backing a little more difficult to handle than batts because of size fire resistant, moisture resistant RIGID BOARD— extruded polystyrene bead board (expanded polystyrene) urethane board, glass fiber Where it’s used to insulate: basement wall NOTE: Polystyrene and urethane rigid board insula- tion should only be installed by a contractor. They must be covered with 1/2” gypsum wall- board to assure fire safety. extruded polystyrene and urethane are their own vapor barriers, bead board and glass fiber are not. high insulating value for relatively small thicknesses, particularly urethane. comes in 24” or 48” widths variety of thicknesses from 3/4” to 4” installation Preparation Put in temporary lighting and flooring, check for leaks and check need for ventilation and vapor barrier (see page 54). Seal all places where pipes or wires penetrate the attic floor. NOTE: Some manufacturers may recommend using polyethylene ina continuous sheet across the joists or trusses. If you aren’t adding insulation that covers the tops of these framing members with at least 3%” of insulation, laying a continuous sheet may cause condensation along them; lay strips as shown instead. Install temporary flooring and lights. Keep insulation in Install separate vapor barrier if needed (see page 54). wrappers until you are ready to install. It comes Lay in polyethylene strips between joists or trusses. wrapped in a compressed state and expands when the Staple or tack in place. Seal seams and holes with tape. wrappers are removed. (Instead of taping, seams may be overlapped 6”). BLANKET /NSULATION, OR. CARDBOARD TOP PLATE Check for roof leaks, looking for water stains or marks. If you’re using loose fill, install baffles at the inside of If you find leakage, make repairs before you insulate. the eave vents so that the insulation won't block the Wet insulation is ineffective and can damage the struc- flow of air from the vents into the attic. Be sure that in- ture of your home. sulation extends out far enough to cover the top plate. 48 IN THE BANK ...OR UP THE CHIMNEY Installing the insulation Either lay in batts or blankets between the joists or pour in loose fill. If you’re using batts or blankets with a vapor barrier, place the barrier on the side toward the living area. Lay in blankets or batts between joists or trusses. (Note: batts and blankets are slightly wider than joist spacing so they’ll fit snugly). If blankets are used, cut long runs first to conserve material, using leftovers for shorter spaces. Slide insulation under wiring wherever possible. Pour in loose fill insulation to the depth required. If you are covering the tops of the joists, a good way to get uni- form depth is to stretch two or three strings the length of the attic at the desired height, and level the insulation to the strings. Use a board or garden rake. Fill all the nooks and crannies, but don’t cover recessed light fixtures, exhaust fans, or attic ventilation. PART 3: HOW TO DO IT The space between the chimney and the wood framing should be filled with non-combustible material, prefer- ably unfaced batts or blankets. Also, the National Elec- tric Code requires that insulation be kept 3” away from light fixtures. Cut ends of batts or blankets to fit snugly around cr: bracing. Cut the next batt in a similar way to allowt ends to butt tightly together. If page 44 calls for R-Value that requires a second layer, place it at ric angles to the joists. i Calculate the length of 2x4 stock you'll need for collar beams. Measure the length of span you need between rafters (c) and count the number of collar beams you need to install. Multiply to get the length of stock you need. You can have the lumber yard cut it to length at a small charge. If you cut it yourself, allow for waste. If you plan to finish your attic, check with your lumber yard to make sure 2” X 4” ’s are strong enough to support the ceiling you plan to install. area number of . Figure out the area of each end wall you want to insulate. Measure (d) and (e) and multiply to de- termine the area. Multiply by (.9) to correct for the space taken up by the studs, then multiply by the number of end walls. x 29) x ee area required end wails installation Preparation Check for roof leaks, looking for water stains or marks. If you can find any leaks, make repairs before you insulate. Wet in- sulation is useless and can damage the structure of your house. Determine your need for more ventilation by referring to page 54. Put up your temporary lights and: ie Install 2x4 collar beams spanning from rafter to rafter at the ceiling height you want. Every pair of rafters should have a collar beam spanning between them. . Note: If you’re installing new insulation over exist- ing insulation: Between the Rafters and Between the End Wall Studs, cut the old insulation loose where it has been stapled, push it to the back of the cavities, and slash the old vapor barrier (if any) before you lay the new insulation over it. Between the Collar Beams, lay the new insulation above the old. Lay it over the tops of the collar beams in an unbroken layer at right angles to the beams. Use insulation that does not have a vapor barrier for this part of the job. If you can’t get in- sulation without a vapor barrier, slash the vapor barrier before laying it down, so that moisture won’t get trapped in the insulation. Install batts or blanket sections in place between the rafters and collar beams. Install with the vapor bar- rier on the inside, the side toward you. Don’t try to use a continuous length of insulation where the collar beams meet the rafters. lt will only result in gaps that are very hard to fill. Install batts in the end walls the same way. Be sure to trim carefully to fit the angles on the end walls. Install batts or blanket sections by stapling the facing flange to the edge of the rafter or collar beam. Don’t staple to the outside of the rafters; the vapor barrier will have a break at every rafter; and you may compress the insulation against the sheathing, reducing its insulating value. IN THE BANK... OR UP THE CHIMNEY INSULATE YOUR FINISHED TVVO OPTIONS AVAILABLE (and worth considering if there’s under 4 inches o: insulation already there.) 1. Contractor Installation: insulation blown into th: ceiling, sloping rafters and outer attic floors; batt installed in the knee walls. Nv Do-it-yourself: installation of batts, blankets o loose fill in all attic spaces you can get to. Where the insulation needs to be installed ; 7 ons 1. Attic Ceiling 4. Outer Attic Floors, or 2. Rafters 5. Outer Attic Rafters 3. Knee Walls 6. End Walls CONTRACTOR INSTALLED Types of materials contractors use Blown-in insulation glass fiber tock wool Batts or blankets glass fiber rock wool Preparation How thick should the insulation be? See page 44. Check your need for ventilation and a vapor barrier. See page 54. Check for roof leaks, looking for water stains or marks. If you can find any leaks, make repairs before you insulate. Wet insulation is useless and can damage the structure of your house. What your contractor will do Your contractor will blow insulation into the open joist spaces above your attic ceiling, between the rafters, and into the floor of the outer attic space, then install PART 3: HOW TO DO IT batts in the knee walls. If you want to keep the oute attic spaces heated for storage or any other purpose you should have the contractor install batts betwee: the outer attic rafters instead of insulating the oute floors and knee walls. Page SO describes how blown-in insulation is instal’ under an unfinished attic floor. This process is mu the same for open joists with no floor over the Pages 51-52 describe the right way to install batts. BO-IT- YOURSELF You can insulate wherever you can get into unfinished spaces. Installing insulation in your attic ceiling is the sam< installing it in an unfinished attic. Look at pages 47 to see how this is done. If you want to insulate your outer attic spaces your install batts between the rafters and the studs in small triangular end walls. Look at page 52 to see ho: do this. DOYOU NEEDA VAPOR BARRIER OR VIORE VENTILATION iN N YOUR eee CONTRACTOR INSTALLED OR DO-IT-YOURSELF Whenever you add insulation to your house, you should consider the need for a vapor barrier or more ventilation where you're doing the work. A vapor barrier will prevent water vapor from condens- ing and collecting in your new insulation or on the beams and rafters of your house. Added ventilation will remove water vapor before it gets a chance to condense and will also increase summer comfort by cooling off your attic. x Winait you need If you're insulating your attic and: .. you live in Zone | 1. Install a vapor barrier (unless you are blowing insul- ation into a finished attic) 2. Add ventilation area equal to 1/300 your attic floor area if: Signs of condensation occur after one heating season . OR You can’t install a vapor barrier with your insul- ation ..if you live in Zone !] and don’t have air conditioning 1. Install a vapor barrier toward the living space if you are insulating a finished attic (with other attics a vapor barrier is optional). 2. Add ventilation area equal to 1/300 your attic floor area if signs of condensation occur after one heating season. .- you live in Zone I] and have air conditioning 1. Install a vapor barrier toward the living space if you are insulating a finished attic (with other attics a vapor barrier is optional). 2. Add ventilation area equal to 1/150 your attic floor area. What shou'd be installed Vapor barriers: If you are installing batt or blanket insulation, and you need a vapor barrier, buy the batts or blankets with the vapor barrier attached. Install them with the vapor barrier side toward the living space. If you are installing a loose fill insulation, lay down Lig a (heavy, clear plastic) in strips between the — PATH Ventilation: Install ventilation louvers (round or rectangular) in the eaves and gables (ridge vents are also available but are more difficult and costly to install in your house). The total open area of these louvers should be either 1/300 or 1/150 of your attic area (see “What You Need” above), and evenly divided between the gables and the eaves. Ventilation louvers should be installed by a carpenter unless you are an experienced handyman. Don’t Block Ventilation Path with Insulation. IN THE BANK... OR UP THE CHIMNEY [NSULATE YOUR VVGOD FRAME VVALLS VVhat your contractor will do The contractor will measure the area you want insulated to determine how much material he will need and to estimate the cost. To install the insulation, the contrac- tor must be able to get all the spaces in the wall. For each space he must drill a hole, usually in the outside wall, after removing the finished layer (usually clapboard or shingle). This always amounts to a lot of holes, but once the job is complete, a good contractor will leave no traces behind. If you have brick veneer on the exterior, the procedure is much the same, except that it may be cheaper to do it from the inside. Once the holes in the wall have been made your contractor is then ready to install the insulation. If the insulation is blown-in insulation he’ll be following the process outlined on page 50. If he’s using foam, he'll pump the foam into the wall spaces through a flexible hose with an applicator. With either method, each space will be completely filled, and the siding replaced. What you should check First be very careful about selecting a contractor. See page 66 for advice on how to make a choice. PART 3: HOW TO DO IT CONTRACTOR INSTALLEE Normally, insulating material is blown or pumped intc the spaces in a wood frame wall through holes drillec from the outside or from the inside. NOTE: Condensation in insulated wails may be a problem; sec box on condensation, p.19. Types of materials contractors us« Blow-in insulation: glass fiber <= > rock wool BEE > cellulosic fiber " Foam-in insulation: plastic foam installed as a foam under slight pressur which hardens to form insulation. Quality of applic: tion to date has been very inconsistent — ask your loc: HUD/FHA office to recommend a qualified installe Before you sign an agreement with your contractc define what you’re buying and make sure it’s spelled o in the contract. Insulation material properly instal! will add an R-Value of 8 for rock wool, 10 } cellulosic fiber, or 11.5 for ureaformaldehyde in standard wood frame wall. You should agree on wi that R-Value is with the contractor before the job beg. Next, check a bag of the type of insulation he intends use (there will only be bags of mineral fiber or cellulo fiber — there’s no good way to check quantity w foam). On it, there will be a table which will indic how many square feet of wall space that bag is meant fill while giving your house the desired R value. 7 information may be in different forms (number square feet per bag or number of bags per 1000 squ feet), so you may have to do some simple division :o the number correctly. Knowing this and the area of your walls, you shoulc able to figure out about how many bags should installed to give you the desired R-value. This number should be agreed upon between you the contractor before the job is begun. While the jc in progress be sure the correct amount is being insta There’s nothing wrong with having the contractor the empty bags so you can count them — 4 or § more or less than the amount you agreed on is an acc able difference from the estimate. INSULATE YOUR _ CRAWL SPACE I Too!) : a hal 1. Staple gun Ltn 2. Heavy duty shears or linoleum knife t= 3. Temporary lighting 4. Portable fan or blower to provide ventilation 5. Tape measure > (OY > 6. Duct or Masking Tape (2” wide) TWO OPTIONS AVAILABLE (1) Do-it-Yourself: Install batt or blanket insulation around the walls and perimeter of your crawl space. Lay a plastic vapor barrier down on the crawl space earth. (2) Contractor Installed: If your crawl space presents access of working space problems, you may want to consider having a contractor do the work for you. The contractor will probably follow a method similar to the do-it-yourself method described below. But if he sug- gests something different, have him price both methods and show you which is better. See page 66 for advice on how to select a contractor. The method of insulation shown here should not be used by residents of Alaska, Minnesota, and northern Maine. The extreme frost penetration in these areas can cause heaving of the foundation if the insulation method shown here is used. Residents of these areas should contact local HUD/FHA field offices for advice. Safety 1. Provide adequate temporary lighting 2. Wear gloves and a breathing mask when working with glass fiber or rock wool 3. Provide adequate ventilation 4. Keep lights, fan, and all wires well off wet ground Viateriais What you'll need 1. R11 (3-3%” thick) blankets of rock wool or glass fiber; without a vapor barrier 2. Six mil polyethylene plastic to lay on earth for vapor barrier (mil’s are a measure of thickness) =@ ——= How much 1. Determine area to be insulated; measure the length and average height of the wall to be insulated; add 3° to the height (for perimeter insulation) and multiply the two to find total insulation area (length) X (height + 3’) = area rene x +3’ = nN Determine the area to be covered by the vapor barrier by finding the area of your crawl space (length) X (width) = area x = You may have to divide your crawl space into several rectangles — measure them and add up the areas. (length) X (width) = x — 8 xXx = x ——__ +" AREA Installation Drawing 1: Where the joists run at right angles to the wall, press short pieces of insulation against the header — they should fit snugly. Then install the wall and perim- eter insulation by stapling the top of each strip to the sill. Make sure the batts fit snugly against each other, and that you cut them long enough to cover 2 feet of floor as iri Drawing 2. KE ARAM \ TURN SCRUINR REISS, Drawing 2: Where the joists run parallel to the wall, you don’t need the short pieces of insulation, just install the wall and perimeter insulation by stapling the top of each strip to the band joist. When all batts have been installed, lay down the poly- ethylene vapor barrier, tucking it under the batts all the way to the foundation wall. Turn it up at least 6” at the wall. Tape the joints of the vapor barrier or lap them at least 6”. Plan your work to minimize stepping or crawling on the vapor barrier. VENTILATING YOUR CRAVVL SPACE Even with a plastic vapor barrier on the floor, the air in your crawl space will be too damp if fresh air doesn’t get in there from time to time. This will mean your new insulation will be wet, and it won’t keep your house as warm. It will also mean that wooden members that hold up your house will be wet, and they'll rot. Proper ven- tilation will prevent both of these problems: 1. If your crawl space is part of your forced-air heating. system (in other words, if air from your furnace moves through it), seal your crawl space as tightly as possible-— the air moving through it from your furnace is enough ventilation in winter. If you have crawl space vents, keep them shut in winter, open in summer. If there are no vents, run the blower on your furnace 3 or 4 times dur- ing the summer to keep the air in the crawl space from getting too damp. PART 3: HOW TO DO IT 2. All other crawl spaces should have vents in them that can be opened in summer (to clear out the damp air), and closed tightly in winter to make the most of your new insulation. You can make a cover for them to install in winter. Note: Your furnace may get its combustion air from the crawl space. If so, some of the vents should be left open. Check with your local HUD/FHA office. aE INSULATE TWO OPTIONS AVAILABLE 1. DO-IT-YOURSELF Install batts or blankets between the floor joists by sta- pling wire mesh or chicken wire to the bottom of the joists and sliding the batts or blankets in on top of the wire. Place vapor barrier up. The job is quite easy to do in most cases. If you are insulating over a crawl space there may be some problems with access or working room, but careful planning can make things go much more smoothly and easily. Check your floor joist spacing — this method will work best with standard 16” or 24” joist spacing. If you have non-standard or irregular spacing there will be more cut- ting and fitting and some waste of material. 2. CONTRACTOR INSTALLED See page 59. DO-IT-YOURSELF Tools 1. Heavy duty shears or linoleum knife 2. Temporary lighting with a waterproof wiring and connectors & 3. Portable fan or blower O to provide ventilation OTS Hy Q 4. Tape measure 5. Heavy duty staple gun and staples Safety 1. Provide adequate temporary lighting 2. Wear gloves and breathing mask when working with glass fiber or rock wool 3. Provide adequate ventilation 4. Keep lights and all wires off wet ground iViateriais What you'll need 1. R11 (3"-3%4”) batts or blankets or rock wool or glass fiber, preferably with foil facing (See Installation). 2. Wire mesh or chicken wire of convenient width for handling in tight space. How much Determine the area to be insulated by measuring the length and width and multiplying to get the area. (length) X (width) = area ( ) xX ¢ )=_ You may find it necessary to divide the floor into smaller areas and add them. (length) X (width) = area ( ) xX ( ) + (XX ( = (——_) X ( Sz total area = (.9)(total area) = area of insulation (:) | a total area = area of wire mesh or chicken wire IN TUE RANK OR UP THE CHIMNEY Start at a wall at one end of the joists and work out. Staple the wire to the bottom of the joists, and at right angles to them. Slide batts in on top of the wire. Work with short sections of wire and batts so that it won’t be too difficult to get the insulation in place. Plan sections to begin and end at obstructions such as cross bracing. PART 3: HOW TO DO IT Buy insulation with a vapor barrier, and install the vapor barrier facing up (next to the warm side) leaving an air space between the vapor barrier and the floor. Get foil- faced insulation if you can; it will make the air space insulate better. Be sure that ends of batts fit snugly up against the bottom of the floor to prevent loss of heat up end. Don’t block combustion air openings for fur- naces, INSULATE YOUR BASEMENT F WALLS SHR os thee we nortan nt Sis spanner ttn arene Saw G—— pe = Hammer, nails : Tape measure > Linoleum knife or heavy duty shears ergh i 7. Small sledge hammer, masonry nails { | j Se Miateriais What you'll need | 1.R-11 (3% inch) batt or blanket insulation, glass fiber | or rock wool, with a vapor barrier (buy polyethylene if you can’t get batts or blankets with a vapor barrier). is {= [i 2.2" X 4” studs _—= li 3. Drywall or panelling, if desired. 4. Waterproof paint, if necessary in d OO ee a a ea 1 y : 3. Heavy duty staple gun, or hammer and tacks (a 4 5 ANMODERATELY EASY DO-IT-YOURSELF PROJECT Install 2” X 4” studs (needed for thickness of insulation) along the walls to be insulated. Add glass fiber insulation between the studs. If you wish, finish with wallboard or panelling. The thickness of the finished wall material will determine the spacing of the studs.. The method of insulation shown here should not be used by residents of Alaska, Minnesota, and northern Maine. The extreme frost penetration in these areas can cause heaving of the foundation if the insulation method shown here is used. Residents of these areas should contact local HUD/FHA field offices for advice. - Safety 1. Provide adequate temporary lighting 2. If you use glass fiber or rock wool, wear gloves and a breathing mask, and keep the material wrapped until you are ready to use it How much Measure the height and length of the walls you intend to insulate. Multiply these two figures to determine how many square feet of insulation is needed. (height) X (length) = area eae DR fee 2. Find the linear feet of studs you'll need by multi- plying the length of the walls you intend to insul- ate by (6). (6) X (length) = (linear ft.) (6) X = 3. The area of wall covering equals the basement wall height times the length of wall you intend to finish. (height) X (length) = area ee) ee IN THE BANK ...OR UP THE CHIMNEY shite heetenes mor Installation Check to see whether or not moisture is coming through your basement walls from the ground outside. If it is and your walls are damp, you should eliminate the cause of the dampness to prevent the insulation you're going to install from becoming wet and ineffective. To be sure, install the new studs and insulation slightly away from the wall. oo ny ere rs meres - = Nail the bottom plate to the floor %” out from the base of the wall with a hammer and masonry nails. Install studs 16 or 24 inches apart after the top plate is nailed to the joists above. (Where the wall runs parallel to the joists, you may not be able to fasten the top plate in this way, but may have to fasten a %4” thick horizon- tal furring strip to the wall near the top, and fasten the studs to it. Block between studs at ceiling after studs are in place if you need backing for finish wal! material. Cut blankets into sections the height of the wall. Staple them into place, with the vapor barrier toward the living space. AQT RIM aR BAN? Joist LLB BprATe sit J FURRING STRIP_(USE : WHEN \S PARALLEL |. TO isi» “367 INSULATION E VAPOR BARRIER Install another small piece of insulation above the new studs and against the sill to insulate the sill and band For a more finished look, install finish wall board or joist. panelling over the insulation and studs. PART 3: HOW TO DO IT 61 SAVING ENERGY WITH YOUR HEATING, AIR CONDITIONING & WATER HEATING TWO OPTIONS AVAILABLE 1. Routine Servicing — your serviceman should check all your heating and cooling equipment and do any needed maintenance once a year. 2. Repair or Replacement — some of your heating and cooling equipment may be so badly worn or outmoded that it will pay you to replace it now and get your money back in a few years. Routine Servicing A periodic checkup and maintenance of your heating and cooling equipment can reduce your fuel consump- tion by about 10 per cent. Locating a good heating/ cooling specialist and sticking with him is a good way to ensure that your equipment stays in top fucl-saving condition. Your local fuel supplier or heating/cooling system repair specialist are the people to call — you can find them in the Yellow Pages under: Heating Contractors Air Conditioning Equipment Furnaces-Heating Electric Heating Oil Burner-Equipment and Service Check out the people you contact with the Better Business Bureau and other homeowners in your area. Once you're satisfied you're in touch with a reputable outfit, a service contract is the best arrangement to make. For an annual fee, this gets you a periodic tuneup of your heating/cooling system, and insures you against repairs of most components. A regular arrangement like this is the best one — the serviceman gets to know your system, and you're assured of regular maintenance from a company you know. In this section, there are lists of items your serviceman should check for each type of heating or cooling system. Some items may vary from brand to brand, but go over #2 the list with your serviceman. Also listed here are service items you can probably take care of yourself and save even more money. If you don’t want to service your system yourself, make sure you add those items to your serviceman’ list. Repair or Replacement ~ ... of your equipment may be necessary. When you are faced with major repairs, inevitably the question comes up: should we fix what we’ve got, or buy new equipment? It’s an important question but not difficult to answer if you consider the right things: 1. Get several estimates — the larger the job the more estimates. The special knowledge of the equipment dealer and installer is most needed here — they’ study your house, measure the walls and windows, and should give you written estimates. 2. Check to see what your fuel costs are now. See page 25 to estimate your heating bill if it’s mixed in with other utilities. 3. Ask each contractor who gives you an estimate to tell you how many years he thinks it will take before the amount you save by having the new system equals what you paid for it. Remember, fuel costs are going up. IN THE BANK...OR UP THE CHIMNEY MRSA etdeeees | re et nena AE tienen You can do these yourself: Clean or replace air filters — this is important, easy to do, and is something that needs to be done more often than it pays to have a serviceman do it. Every 30 to 60 days during the heating season you should clean or replace (depending on whether they’re disposable) the air filters near the furnace in your system. Ask your serviceman how to do it, buy a supply, and stick to a schedule — you can save a lot of fuel this way. eg eee CSS Sh PSO Clean the fan blade that moves the air through your system — it gets dirty easily and won’t move the air well unless it’s clean. Do this every year. Keep all registers clean — Vacuum them every few weeks. Warm air coming out of the registers should have a free path unobstructed by curtains or furniture. STEAM HEAT SYSTEM With steam heat, if your serviceman checks your burner, (see Furnace Maintenance above) and the water system in your boiler, most of his work is done. There are two things you can do to save energy, though: Insulate steam pipes that are running through spaces you don’t want to heat. Every 3 weeks during the heating season, drain a bucket of water out of your boiler (your serviceman will show you how) — this keeps sediment off the bottom of the boiler. If the sediment is allowed to stay there, it will actually insulate your boiler from the flame in your burner and a lot of heat will go up the chimney that would have heated your home. Wincle-House Air Conditioning Once a Year (Got room air conditioners?— many of these hints apply, ask your dealer about what you can do to your room air conditioners) Serviceman: Oil bearings on fan and compressor if they are not sealed Measure electrical current drawn by compressor Check pulley belt tension Check for refrigerating fluid leaks and add fluid if needed Check electrical connections Re-adjust dampers — if your air conditioner uses the same ducts as your heating system, different settings are usually required for summer cooling than for winter heating. Flush evaporator drain line. You Can Do These Yourself Clean or replace air filters — this is important, and if done every 30 to 60 days will save you far more money in fuel than the cost of the filters. Clean the condenser coils of dust, grass clippings, etc. NOTE: Your condenser is the part of your air conditioner that sits outside your house. !t should be shaded — if it has to work in the sun it wastes a lot of fuel. When you shade it, make sure you don’t obstruct the flow of air out and around it. (Ul MN ewe Buying a room air conditioner? — see Part 4. IN THF RANK ...OR UP THE CHIMNEY Furnace WMlaintenance OIL BURNER Every Year Adjust and clean bumer unit Adjust fuel-to-air ratio for maximum efficiency Check for oil leaks Check electrical connections, especially on safety devices Clean heating elements and surfaces Adjust dampers and draft regulator Change oil filters Change air filter Change oil burner nozzle Check oil pump Clean house thermostat contacts and adjust There are several tests servicemen can use to check oil furnace efficiency: Draft Test to see if heat is being lost up the chimney or if draft is not enough to properly burn your oil. Smoke Test to see if your oil is being burned cleanly and completely. CO test to see if fuel is being burned completely. Stack Temperature Test to see if stack gases are too hot or not hot enough. COAL FURNACE At the end of each heating season Adjust and clean stoker Clean burner of all coal, ash and clinkers Oil the inside of the coal screw and hopper to prevent Tust GAS FURNACE (bottled, LP or natural) Every 3 Years Check operation of main gas valve, pressure regulator, and safety control valve PART 3: HOW TO DO!IT Adjust primary air supply nozzle for proper combustion Clean thermostat contacts and adjust for proper opera- tion See Draft Test and Stack Temperature Test above ELECTRIC FURNACE Very little maintenance required. Check the manufac- turers specifications. Heat Distribution Systems Some items here you can do yourself to keep your system at top efficiency. For the ones you can’t, check above on how to pick a serviceman. Note: except where it says otherwise, these are all once a year items. HOT WATER HEATING SYSTEM Serviceman: Check pump operation Check operation of flow control valve Check for piping leaks Check operation of radiator valves Drain and Flush the boiler Oil Pump Motor You can do this yourself: Bleed air from the system. Over time, a certain amount of air will creep into the pipes in your system. It will find its way to the radiators at the top of your house, and wherever there’s air, it keeps out hot water. There’s usually a small valve at the top of each radiator. Gnce or twice a year open the valve at each radiator. Hold a bucket under it, and keep the valve open until the water comes out. Watch out, the water is hot. Draining and Flushing the boiler is also something you can do yourself. Ask your serviceman to show you how. FORCED HOT AIR HEATING SYSTEM Once a Year Serviceman: Check blower operation Oil the blower motor if it doesn’t have sealed bearings. Check for duct leaks where duct is accessible. 63 WWeter Heaters Once a Year Serviceman: Adjust damper (for gas or oil) Adjust burner and clean burner surfaces (for oil) Check electrodes (for electric) De-lime tank You can do this yourself: 1. Once or twice a year, drain a bucket of water out of the bottom of the heater tank — this will let out any sediment that has collected there. The sediment in- sulates the water in the tank from the burner’s flame or electrode — rhat wastes energy. 2. Insulate your water heater tank. This will greatly re- duce the amount of fuel the heater uses when you are not using any hot water but when the heater must still keep the water hot. To insulate the heater, use 3” batts or blankets with a paper or foil facing, and duct tape. For a more finished looking job, use duct insulating blankets. There are some water heater in- sulating kits now being sold at home improvement centers. Note: With oil or gas heaters, do nor insulate the top or bottom of the heater. At the top, you may inter- fere with the draft of the heater’s flue. At the vottom, you may cut off air to flame. On/y insulate the sides. PART 3: HOW TO DO IT 3. Don’t set the temperature of your water heater any higher than you need to — your heater burns fuel keeping your water hot when you're not using it — the higher you set it, the more it burns. If you've got a dishwasher, /40° is high enough — if not, 120° is plenty. Depending on the type of fuel you use, this simple setback will save you $5 to $45 a year. (You say your heater says HIGH, MED, LOW? — Call your dealer and ask him which setting means 140 or 120 degrees.) Note: settings over 140° can shorten the. life of water heaters, especially those that are glass-lined. More about hot water conservation — See Part 4. If the ducts for either your heating or your air conditioning system run exposed through your attic or garage (or any other space that is not heated or cooled) they should be insulated. Duct insulation comes generally in blankets 1 or 2” thick. Get the thicker variety, particularly if you’ve got rectangular ducts. If you're doing this job at all, it’s worth it to do it right. For air conditioning ducts, make sure you get the kind of insulation that has a vapor barrier (the vapor barrier goes on the outside). Seal the joints of the insulation tightly with tape to avoid condensation. NOTE: Check for leaks in the duct and tape them tightly before insulating. 65 Ea Take 0 ev tenete ianeadinmmene mL phe iN ch hg nee Salle CHOOSING A CONTRACTOR If you decide that a particular home improvement you pride in their business, are conscientious, and honest. want to make should be done by a contractor, there are But you should still spend some time and effort in some things you should know about finding the right making your choice, and once the choice is made, in person for the job. The large majority of contractors take clearly defining the job. 1. Where to start looking Yellow Pages under “Insulation Contractors — Cold See how long each contractor has been in business — and Heat.” Don’t be suspicious of the small opera- in general, the longer the better. ton — even just a carpenter and his helper. You're Call your local Better Business Bureau and ask if doing a relatively small project and often the small there have been any complaints against each of the business man will give you an excellent job. contractors on your list. ti : j 3 Local Chapter of the National Association of Home rae Sata onvany.jobiyou think: wil Builders or Home Builders Association. They will be ial very helpful in recommending contractors. 3. Once you've selecteda contractor — put it IN WRITING Have him write up a specific contract for your job. Your banker. It’s in his interest to recommend a man who will do a good job if he’s loaning you the mon- ey to do the work. Local government offices for government funded or Check the contract carefully sor mor oe and A é warranty. The best way to do this is to make a list of non-profit operated home improvement assistance . : 7 zi : all the things you feel he should do in the course of centers. They don’t exist everywhere but the ones . : that do are interested in helping, and maintain files the job ¢ the applicable Part 3 pages for i assistance here). Then check what you know should on contractors that they recommend. , fs a ui be included against what’s in the contract. From isi aa Toe a list of three or four Sign the contract only when you are fully satisfied contractors|[romiwhich}to!select: that it details everything you want done. Insisting on gy g lo , Aart a detailed contract doesn’t mean that you don’t trust 2. How to select from ye list your contractor. But once you have a contract, each Ask each contractor for a list of past customers, and of you knows his limit of responsibility before the Pi po check their satisfaction with his work. job begins. GETTING If you don’t want to pay for your energy fix-up program out of your savings, i and you want to get a much better interest rate than either a loan on your g y' FIRIANCING i card or refinancing your present home mortgage will give you, try one of these: Where to Get Financing (and Information) What Kind of Financing How Long to Repay Commercial Bank 1, Home Improvement Loan 2-5 years Savings and Loan Mutual Savings Bank 2. FHA/HUD Title I 12 years NOTE: Lenders are not allowed to charge fees of any kind for this type of loan, Almost al! of the improvements mentioned in this manuai are eligible under Title |. Your Credit Union Depends on the Credit Union, but Repayment time varies with the usually includes Title I loans; see above. type of loan. IN THE BANK...OR UP THE CHIMNEY PART 4: RICRE..cn how to save heating & cooling energy PART 4: NVIORE...cn how to save heating & cooling energy Doorsiandi Windows | c.. fives > sane © yeti) be 69 (Atticiand ROOfs Sei aces se © 4 Beare 3) etre 69 Dee nee rece + Koad hee reeds ete 70 Shading ‘Your Home) sess ase: occ - ome: 70 Hot Water? 6 ciate |- (oilers apie s =) eras mites a 70 Flea tinge) ise evo) - one sis aioe isp eieiiot ~) sialeiuat a1 71 Air Conditioningi\. -\oaseiele|s ee elelew ae ease 71 Buying a Room Air Conditioner............... 71 The HeatPompy cicins +6 6-1 os1-/ sis He ars ele oe 72 Fireplacesiqn vmact-)<losstme steers rere ch eines a 72 eights} spay stew) she l= 1 c0e foleis Sitar eley se istshe las «ol sre 72 Energy EromtheStn) 6. 26+ 5 asaes ¢ = seieiaie 73 Energy Fromithe Wind) - cj): 6s aoe sere in! = 73 New Ways to Get Back Waste Heat .......... 73 Docrs and windows Keep doors and windows firmly shut and locked to cut down heat loss in winter and heat gain in sum- mer. Check your windows and door latches to see whether they fit tightly and, if necessary, adjust the latches and plug any air leaks. You don’t really need to open windows in winter — you usually get enough fresh air just from normal air leakage even if your house is well caulked and weatherstripped. Use heavy or insulated draperies, keep them closed at night, and fit them tightly at the top. In the summer and in warm climates, light colored curtains that you can’t see through will reflect the sun and help keep your house cool. The tightest storm door in the world doesn’t work when it’s open — try to cut down the number of times that you go in and out. Adding a vestibule at your front and back doors will also help to tighten up your house. PART 4: MORE ENERGY SAVING IDEAS Attic and rocf Seal any openings between your attic and the rest of your house where air might escape, such as spaces around loosely-fitting attic stairway doors or pull- down stairways, penetrations of the ceiling for lights or a fan, and plumbing vents, pipes, or air ducts which pass into the attic — they don’t seem like much, but they add up! WI One alternative to energy-consuming air conditioning is the use of an attic fan to cool your home. Normally a house holds heat, so that there’s a lag between the time the outside air cools after sunset on a summer night and the time that the house cools. The purpose of the attic fan is to speed up the cooling of the house by pulling air in through open windows up through the attic and out. h tr When the fan’s on, you can let air through to the attic either by opening the attic door part way or by installing a louver that does the same thing automatically. 69 ses tt eh avert ae amen In a part of the country that has hot days and cool nights, using an attic fan in the evenings and closing the windows and curtains during the day can replace air conditioning. The size of the fan you buy should be determined by the amount of space you want to cool. You can figure out the fan size you need by | finding the volume of your house: Rounding off to the nearest foot, multiply the length of your house by its width, then multiply by its height (from the ground to just below the attic). This will give you the volume in cubic feet. The capacity of all fans is marked on the fan in CFM’s — Cubic Feet of air moved per Minute. Divide the volume of your house by 10; this will give you the CFM tating of the fan you need to change the air in the house 6 times an hour. + 10= volume of house CFM fan rating Basemenis If you can’t afford to insulate the exposed portions of your basement or crawl space for the winter, you can still create some barriers against wind and cold by planting shrubs around the foundation. You can also tarpaper the exposed walls and rake leaves against the foundation, covering them with a weighted tarp (the tarpaper keeps moisture off your house that would otherwise come in through the leaves.) Shading your home A good way to keep your house cool in the summer is to shade it from the outside. The east and west sides are where the most heat comes through — if you can shade here, it’ll show up right away in a smaller air conditioning bill and a cooler home. Any way that stops the sun before it gets in through the 70 glass is seven times as good at keeping you cool as blinds and curtains on the inside. So trees and vines that shade in the summer and lose their leaves for the winter are what you want — they'll let the sun back in for the winter months. If you can’t shade your house with trees, concentrate on keeping the sun out of your windows — awnings, sun shutters, sun- shades, or reflective foil will help do the job. riot water See page 65 for hot water heater maintenance, and turn your heater down to 120° if you haven’t al- ready. & All your leaky faucets should be fixed — particularly the hot ones — one leaky faucet can waste up to 6000 gallons of water a year. You can also save by turning your water heater down when you'll be away from home for a weekend or more. Always use full loads in your dishwasher and clothes washer, and use warm wash and cold rinse. Taxe showers — they use less hot water than baths. You should use cold water to run your garbage disposal — in general, you save every time you use cold water instead of hot. IN THE BANK... OR UP THE CHIMNEY Heating (See Part 3 for the details on how to keep your system tuned) In Part 2 (page 25), you can figure out how much you can save by lowering your thermostat. For an extra investment of about $80, you can install a clock thermostat, which will automatically turn your heat down every night and turn it up in the morn- ing. Something that’ll do the same job for about $40 is a time-delay thermostat, which is a wind-up timer wired into your thermostat. More efficient oil burners are available now. If you have oil heating, you can check with your oil company about the new high-speed flame-retention oil burners — they can save you 10% on you oil bill. Your furnace may be too big. If your house has been insulated since it was built, then your furnace may be too big for your home. In general that means it’s inefficient, and would use less fuel overall if it were smaller. Here’s how to tell: wait for one of the coldest nights of the year, and set your thermo- stat at 70°. Once the house temperature reaches 70°, if the furnace burner runs /ess than 40 minutes out of the next hour (time it only when it’s running), your fur- nace is too big. A furnace that’s too big turns on and off much more than it should, and that wastes energy. Call your service company — depending on your type of fuel burner, they may be able to cut down the size of your burner without replacing it. Don’t overheat rooms and don’t heat or cool rooms you’re not using. It’s important that no room in your house get more heating than it needs, and that you should be able to turn down the heating or cooling in areas of your home that you don’t use. If PART 4: MORE ENERGY SAVING IDEAS some of your rooms get too hot before the other Tooms are warm enough, you’re paying for fuel you don’t need, and your system needs balancing — call your serviceman. If your house is “zoned,” you've got more than one thermostat and can tum down heating or cooling in areas where they're not needed. But if your house has only one thermostat, you can’t properly adjust the temperature in rooms you're not using, and that wastes energy too. You can correct this situation fairly cheaply — try these steps on your system: Steam Radiators — most valves on radiators are all-on or all-off, but you can buy valves that let you set any temperature you like for that radiator. Forced-Air Heating or Cooling — Many registers (the place where the air comes out) are adjustable. If not, get ones that are, so you can balance your system: Hot-water Radiators — if there are valves on your radia- tors at all, you can use them to adjust the temperature room by room. Air conditioning Controlling your air conditioner’s thermostat is discuss- ed in detail in Part 2 (see page 25). Closing off unused rooms is just as important in saving on air conditioning as it is for heating. Keep lights off during the day — most of the electricity they use makes heat, not light. You can also reduce the load on your air conditioning system by not using heat-generating appliances like your dishwasher during the hot part of the day (or stop the dishwasher when the drying cycle begins). lf you have central air conditioning, you may want to look into the air economizer, a system which turns off the part of your air conditioner that uses a lot of electricity, and circulates outside air through the house when it’s cooler out than it is in. By using the cooler outside air, the system reduces its own job and saves money for you. Ask your air conditioning dealer if he can install one on your system. Buying a rocom air conditioner When you go to buy a room air conditioning unit, check the EER — Energy Efficiency Ratio. The higher the EER number, the less electricity the unit will use to cool the same amount of air — you should con- sider your possible fuel savings when deciding how much to spend on your air conditioning unit. A unit 71 which costs more to begin with may save enough money over the next summer to make it worth it. Typical EER’s available range from 4 to 12; a unit with an EER of 4 will cost about 3 times as much to operate as one with an EER of 12. Tne heat pump A heat pump runs on electricity, and is just like an air conditioner, except it can run in reverse — it can use electricity to heat, and gets more heat out of a dollar's worth of electricity than the resistance heaters in baseboard units and electric furnaces. How? — there’s heat in the air outside your home, even when the temperature’s below freezing, and a heat pump can get that warmth out and into your house. When should. you consider installing one? — If you presently have a central electric heating system, it may pay to install a heat pump in the system, next to the furnace. Keep your electric furnace — once the temperature drops below 20° or so, the heat pump will need help from the furnace. Installation of a heat pump — large enough for most houses should cost a little under $3000, but you’re getting central air conditioning as well as a “furnace’’ that’s more than 2 times as efficient as your electric furnace. lf you're adding a room, consider adding a heat pump — like air conditioners they come in room size units. A heat pump for a room comes with its own electric resistance coil (like a baseboard electric heater) for the times of the year when it’s too cold for the heat pump itself to work well. Call your air conditioner dealer for details on both central and room-size heat pumps. If your furnace runs on gas or oil, and the prices of those fuels continue to rise faster than the price of electricity, then you'll want to consider a heat pump too. Fireplace The warm, cozy fireplace is one of the biggest energy wasters there is. Even when it’s burning, it pulls more heated air up the chimney than it replaces, and pulls cold air into the house through cracks in the exterior. Even 72 when you’re not using your fireplace and you have no damper, or the damper is left open, or if the damper is closed but doesn’t fit properly, lots of air you’ve paid to heat will still go up the chimney. There are many devices on the market that make your fireplace a more efficient wood burner. These range from special andirons to folding glass doors, to wood stoves that replace the fireplace. But unless you live in an area where wood is fairly inexpensive, it almost never pays to invest in these as a replacement for oil, gas, or electricity you now use. All these devices cut the amount of fuel you now waste in a fireplace, but seldom enough to justify their cost, considering that most fireplaces are not used very often. The most effective ways to cut the amount of fuel your fireplaces waste are free: if you don’t use a fireplace, make the flue airtight by making a cover for the front of the fireplace. If you use a fireplace, be sure the damper is closed as soon as the fire is completely out. Normally, an open damper has the same effect on your fuel bill as a hole in the wal] twice the size of the damper. A very tall chimney or high winds will increase this effect. Lights Plan your lighting sensibly — reduce lighting where possible, concentrating it in work areas or reading areas where it is really needed. Fluorescent bulbs should be used rather than the incandescent kind. it A 25-watt fluorescent bulb gives off as much light as a 100-watt incandescent bulb, but costs one fourth as much to light. Decorative gas lanterns should be turned off (call your gas company to do this), or converted to electric lamps — they will use much less energy to produce the same amount of light. IN THE BANK... OR UP THE CHIMNEY ... COMING SOON FOR YOUR HOME Energy from the sun Ways to use the sun’s energy for your home are here now. Energy from the sun can be used to heat a home, or to heat domestic hot water. There are two basic ways the sun can be used to heat a home: active and passive. An active system uses a few simple parts: first, a series of large flat panels called collectors, that sit on the roof or on the ground next to the house. In the collector, the sun heats up either air or a water-antifreeze mixture that takes the heat into a storage tank. If the collector is filled with air, the tank will be filled with rocks or gravel through which the air moves. If the collector is filled with liquid, so is the tank. The tank is then used as a source of heat for the home heating system. What about nights and cloudy days? A solar heating system is never intended to fulfill a// the heating needs of a house — the storage tank carries enough heat to get through a few overcast days and nights; after that your normal system must carry the load. COLLECTOR A passive system operates on the same principles as an active one, but uses less hardware and relies more on normal parts of the house — south facing windows may be used as collectors, and the heat both stored and distributed by masonry walls or floors. The cost for a solar heating system for an average new house is between $8,000 and $12,000. Financially, it almost never makes sense to convert an existing home to solar heating or cooling. However, adding a solar unit just to heat your hot water canbea good investment. This is simply a small version of a solar heating system, usually an active one. PART 4: MORE ENERGY SAVING IDEAS Energy from the wind Windmills that pump water and generate electricity have been around a long time. Recently 2 things are happening that make using a wind generator attrac- tive as a generator for your home: first, windmills and the batteries for the electricity they store are getting more efficient — a modern windmill can grab and hold more electricity out of the same amount of wind. Second, the cost of your monthly electric bill is going up and once a windmill’s installed, electricity is nearly free. Like solar heating, a windmill isn’t designed to generate ail your needs — you still need a standard source of electricity — but except for houses with electric heat, a wind generator may produce enough electricity to run your lights and most house- hold appliances. New waysto get back waste heat A lot of the fuel you buy to heat your house is wasted — it goes up your chimney, and it goes up your chimney whether your furnace is running or not. There are 2 energy-saving devices coming that can grab that heat before it gets out. (Note: if you have electric heat these don’t apply. Also, neither of these devices is presently approved for use, but they are coming soon.) 1. The heatpipe or stack heat exchanger — both of these are devices that can be installed to sit in the stream of hot flue gases running from your furnace to your chimney. Either device will take heat out of the flue gas, so it can be used in the house. With warm air heating systems, the extra heat can be sent to a warm air duct. So instead of going up the chim- ney, the heat stays in your house. The motorized flue damper — you know that if you leave your fireplace damper open when there’s no fire going, a lot of warm air that you've paid to heat goes up the chimney — this same thing happens with your furnace when it’s not running. A motorized flue damper works just like the one in your fireplace, except it’s auto- matic -- when the furnace is running, the damper’s open, and the instant the furnace shuts off the damper closes. nN 73 1h Se ARAM SPE te CM Ihe on ba std nee abamenme el Index air conditioning!2.5..-'/1. -\.-...6@asmes 25),26,/64, 71, a2 atticnfiniShed,) 5) gpyer- losoneriiGiare Mele eis stow! ote iat te 16,53 attic, UNtINished myc /-\e tte sere ieee oes 12, 44, 47 attic; unfinished, floored) 254 cie/<!cisem ie sate 14, 44, 50 basé men tisroeaciawe se arttons inet ns 8 21, 24, 60, 70 Caulking) jcagi te stsainsise-|- emir mOt sei F ia 3, 4, 8,34 Ceiling, AthC sas aqse cee me sees ese ee oe 16, 44,53 cellulosicniibenseairaci-reclebiei aerelactcientes 20, 46,55 collarjDearnsigiciercsoper-i-msieesi inl staf oueicaa S152) CONCENSAUOM «4 ne em emi lo este 19, 54,55 CON tat. ss). ela siate is geet «fo sae wi) els Sia) Foe i= 66 GOntraclOIs qeees sae eee ee tee Sere nl em tote 66 OSES Osage ole cised ota SIS ToL holier misp ces 7 (CLAW SPACES won seat) oa Biers g)s Mok mini eps 21 22,56 Gishwasher. | <1-ioui-)-.s612)spigis/2 mio «riage Bina sis 3 71 OOTS ict avsitucrsxtmissiciei sis ragyeveirersiare erat 3, 4, 38, 39, 69 TREtS ee ea erecta Walenta sre erento) odor etna 8 ACES peseatay rcpt saspores pencnens scifi Sees el shes ofe) oko ns Sa Fl ease 65 id Walls, atti oi ik ines seem nes amines 14,50, 51 omergy effictendy 78010... kicks ee meee nein 71,72 faris Atti ori. 4 sigs sient simi ina ig oS 69, 70 FAT CEES solos sos 8 FI TE 8) s Hy 6 tos ov nbs 989] SII S Sigh wn ek «sulin 70 financing =o mairsigersnici-jils sO ee ss eee 66 Girwplaee ieee le elidel eee lean wake oi TZ HOOrSicr shee lae 1 oes eis araeiel-rayoat 21,23; 53) foam, ureaformaldehyde ..............0-5 20;'45;/55 forced:hot air) das. yes ten. DEtGg rie nae 63,71 furnace, (coal agpasesmecere secre mnea ee erent 25563 fiirnace velectric ey seciant wine sme rakeeis ile mnewior 25,63 HUTTACE 5 BAS poet xy ifola). hos sas ties oho des ch ofan nea 25, 63 FUN ACE y Olby whee oe rei ais ayer oil osnies 3 RBI 3, 4,25, 63 gables, outer attic 0.6 see ee cess reso eeeeee 16,17 ALA RED ores an Tes seen teenie seat te aeniet)=t-rat 21 glass ifibe rlmateteveays)storcis aiererodaisriome)staters)ory-1- 4) 45,46 Heat UIT Pry tei cen | cers Sl GIa a Sl evs folas se mine AL 31s OT 72 heeted, WOU Waller Jick teweasy:--+<=5 esine te 20572 hot water heat distribution ................-. 63,71 insulation; DIOWMNsill ....sta> aie stot t = maak Peel ale 46 insulation; DUYANS sce smcsisws-ue lems seiaiEms oie 44 insulation, foamed-in-place ........-..0.000-- 20,45 insulation! loose) fill! saqiats tess teei ies siete) seosairis <i ae 46 insulation, rigid board .......... 0. cece eee eee ee 45 MPI EEC LEE LET LLL 72 louvers; ventilation) ..,.0cs¢ees--- +o sees sane 54 maintenance, air conditioner ...........-.eeeeeee 64 Maintenance, (furnace) (e.csoni- seals Bala sities) siete one 63 maintenance, heat distribution system ............ 63 maintenance, water heater: s05.;.0.7-00-~ssaane 65 oakum, ...) esta ee eae 34,35 POEL E te) oiaicat sea ste evss lie fonek epost “421518 D2 CoS Sia loot efx olor sm 46 Po ee eer Tr 45 R-Value Se ae aan ee ler eee eerineis 44 TaLtershe ttic were yon wien ersten 14, 16, 17,50, 52 TOCK;WOO],_ cece sum siecit sien teas passes 45,46 TOOL, fat les leuclerwe tebe cielery sei seciies ls g\-|-¥ers oc ll TOOK; MANSALG |cicreisiariewrm seen eeeeee ss eee ae 11 Savings, Fae (OTe. sins eey eiwis.o posh} ene sea OVENS eta eretaien ot 7 Servicing, airiCOndIHONer ion. saa eee Eee mm 64 Servicing iUEnace welt neiei einer ciate teieiekt-T sr 63 SHA Gin Seep oporegy ohenet =i SMR Sacer ste sa chep ona LEE 70 Solayenerey’..2.stoos seals power mins ion sm eestees s' 73) Steam Neate sinc ap cinvere alm's. cians sa SSF aIs-Elales) «= 64, 71 storm windows, combination ........ Peers 10, 42 Storm) Windows; plastich: cia. ce acportno wine sas 10, 40 storm Windows, singlelpane . |---| a2sseasce-: 10, 41 thermostat drims min -naltitaraersicmarereaees eer 25563571 ureaformaldehyde foam ...............4. 20, 45,55 VapOr Darvriers ....- 2s ccs ccnsees ccc esencrens 54 VENtHAUON wu. me bie eels se acelin a enaa tee 54 vermin CULi teins wymre asain De twlaoerelednceeloners/aromisreca 46 WEStID Ue). says reais cases seount kosonah 54 IES IS LBL S Seite 69 Walls; lbasementl « <m-r.somnisic@@ se els ems Simic oe 21 walls} craw! Space) keer ecrs eee alate elevelee lel elatas seater 21 Walls, frame S- mitisiesn sme neem sarees 19/55 ee eee eee tee eee 19 WaStE Neat TECOVEEY vo cts one saels Fl) Pewee lnm kai 69 weatherstrioping! amit.) eee swas ens 8,9, 36-39 WAIN) DOWEL tome ote el trie ere geese ite Folie lett tataiokels 73 WINGOWS siete feraiaratelarere irereten spr lates 3, 4, 36, 37, 69 Acknowledgements This manual was prepared by Abt Associates Inc. under Contract H-2179R for the Division of Energy, Building Technology and Standards, Office of Policy Development and Research, U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development, and has been revised by. Technology + Economics, Inc. under Contract H-2681 in August 1977. ‘The authors wish to thank Mr. Robert C. Jones, Jr. AIA, from the Division of Energy, Building Technology and Standards at HUD, for his untiring professional assistance and support. His concern that this manual be a useful and convenient tool for homeowners has guided us throughout the course of this project. This manual was originally reviewed by an Advisory Committee of the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air Conditioning Engineers, Inc. (ASHRAE) for general consistency with current good practice for modification of existing housing to reduce energy use. At review meetings and informal discussions, valuable constructive dialogue between the members of the Committee and the authors has greatly assisted in the resolution of many of the technical issues dealt with in this manual. The members of the Review Committee were: Charles P. Robart, Jr., Chairman Tamami Kusuda, Ph.D. William Rudoy, Ph.D. The authors wish to thank the following organizations, who by their assistance have made substantive contribution to the content and quality of this publication: The National Bureau of Standards, for the assistance from the Center for Building Technology, in the technical and editorial review of the final drafts. The Federal Energy Administration, for the constructive comments from their Building Branch on the final draft. Hittman Associates, Inc. whose scientific work in the field of residential energy conservation pro- vided a starting point for our efforts. The Reader’s Digest, Inc. who kindly gave their permission to reference their illustrations in the preparation of some of the graphic work. The American Gas Association; The Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers; Boston Edison Company; Boston Gas; The Brick Institute of America; Certain-Teed Products Corporation; The Davenport Insulation Company; Florida Power Corporation; HC Products Company; Honeywell, Inc.; The Illinois Power Company; Johns-Manville Corporation; Michigan Consolidated Gas Com- pany; The National Association of Home Builders and the NAHB Research Foundation, Inc.; Owens-Corning Fiberglas Corporation; The National Environmental Systems Contractors Associa- tion; Sears, Roebuck and Company; W.R. Grace and Company. Au tho rs Project Staff: Margaret Bucciero Principal Authors: David J. MacFadyen, Project Director Consultants: ee ge James R. Simpson Prelit Michael E. Brose Tom Timko Steven Nelson nee SE Designworks Allan D. Ackerman, Project Manager Bryan J. Burke Peter T. Hogarth Disclaimer The research and studies forming the basis for this manual were conducted pursuant to a contract with the U.S. atte ment of Housing and Urban Development (HUD). The statements and conclusions contained herein are those of t _ contractor and do not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S. Government in general or HUD in particular. This manu: is not an official standard, and neither the United States nor HUD nor ASHRAE nor the contractor makes any a expressed or implied, or assumes responsibility for the accuracy or completeness of the information herein. However, HUD emphasizes that this manual may be reproduced freely by any interested party, so long as no material =e 7e a in the manual is changed or deleted in such reproduction, and so Jong as proper credit is given to HUD in such tion. IRECTIONS THESE ARE THE TWO PAGES THAT PUT IT ALL TOGETHER. YOU ALREADY KNOW FROM PART 2 WHICH OF THESE LINES YOU WANT TO COMPLETE. HERE’S HOW TO FINISH THEM. How to fill in lines 1-5: First, use Part 2 to fill in the Cost and Savings Factor for each line you’re interested in. Lines 2 and 4: Get your Heating Factor from page 28 and fill it into the oval (© ) on lines 2 and 4. Find your yearly dollar sav- ings like this: MULTIPLY WRITE THE THESE RESULT HERE Heating Savings Yearly Factor Factor Savings C > ]- s Lines 1,3,and 5: Get your Heating Factor from page 28 and fill it into the Heating Factor oval ©). If you do have whole-house air conditioning, get your Cooling Factor from page 28 and fill it into the oval ©). If you don’t have whole-house air conditioning, put zeros into the Cooling Factor oval, like this: (>). Get your yearly dollar savings like this: ADD THESE WRITE THE MULTIPLY WRITE THE IN SUM HERE THESE RESULT HERE Heating Cooling Savings Yearly Factor Factor Factor Savings OC) How to fill in lines 6,7, and 8: Just copy your yearly savings from pages 25, 26, and 27 into the appropriate boxes on the checklist. WHAT ARE YOUR BEST INVESTMENTS? There are two kinds of investments here — the kind you have to make each year, and the kind you only have to make once. Here’s how to directly compare the two dif- ferent kinds of investments and figure out which are your best bets: For the investments that you have to make each year (lines 2a, 2b, 7, and 8), use this method: simply sub- tract the yearly cost from. the yearly savings, and write the difference in the right-hand box on the line of the checklist dealing with the measure. This num- ber is the net savings per year for the investment. savings cost net savings For “one-shot” investments that you only have to pay for once (lines 1, 2c, 3-5), multiply the yearly savings by 13, subtract the cost from the result, and write the dif- ference in the right-hand box on the line of the check- ‘list dealing with the measure. This number is the net savings over the life of the investment. (savings x 13*) cost net savings *Multiplying your estimated savings in the first year by 13 projects the savings (in terms of today’s money) that a . “one-shot” energy-saving improvement will deliver to you over its life. The figure 13 takes into account the rate of- inflation, and assumes that you can borrow money at the average available interest rate. HOW TO INTERPRET THE CHECKLIST Now you’re ready to figure out what are the best energy- savings steps for you. First — look at the cost figures. Don’t consider doing things you can’t afford. But be sure you don’t leave out things you can afford — read page 66, which tells you how to finance home improvements. Second — for the measures you can afford, look at the net savings in the right-hand column. The things to do first are the things that have the highest net savings. Do the measures with the highest net savings, then the next highest, and so on — until you’ve done all you can afford. Don’t do a measure if the net savings are less than 0. Now you're ready to go on to part 3 — the “How-to” part. It starts on page 33. SY US. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1977 O-247-439 ENERGY CHECKLIST fay 9 iM Bisa PART 2 1, CAULK AND WEATHERSTRIP Heating factor Cooling factor Savings factor Total cost 2. ADD STORM WINDOWS | | woo [0 a) plastic storm windows Heating factor Savings factor Yearly cost (with no new weatherstripping) C > b) plastic storm windows Heating factor Savings factor Yearly cost (with: new weatherstripping — be sure to fill out line 1 above) > x [] = $ c) glass or rigid plastic Heating factor Savings factor Total cost storm windows (with new weatherstripping — x [ = s be sure to fill out line 1 above} a 3. INSULATE ATTIC Fill out both lines if your attic is a com- bination of two basic attic types (see page 11). Otherwise, fill out the top line only. | Heating factor Cooling factor Savings factor Total cost OO: ae, Ld Heating factor Cooling factor Savings factor Total cost 4. INSULATE CRAWL SPACE WALLS, FLOOR, OR BASEMENT WALLS i ! | | a) Insulate crawl space wails Heating factor Savings factor Total cost | OS OES b) Insulate floor Heating factor Savings factor Total cost i SE fD O c) Insulate basement walls Heating factor Savings factor Total cost COE + + Fo et 5. INSULATE FRAME WALLS Heating factor Cooling factor Savings factor Total cost OO Ss 6. REGULATE THERMOSTAT Degrees turndown From Part 2 Yearly cost — -REGULAT ; Down in winter, up in summer. | $ ee ——- { | Part 2 Yearly cost | 7. SERVICE OIL OR COAL-BURNING FURNACE fs] $30 = rc From Part 2 Yearly cost | $ 30-35 SS 8. SERVICE WHOLE-HOUSE AIR CONDITIONER | E i DOE/CS-0070 March 1978 For additional single copies of this publica- tion, write “Tips for Energy Savers” Pueblo, CO 81009 For bulk copies of this publication, write either U.S. Department of Energy “Tips” Distribution 4 Olfice of Administrative Services Washington, D.C. 20545 or U.S. Department of Energy Technical Information Center P.O. Box 62 Oak Ridge, TN 37830 Tips for Energy Savers In and Around the Home On the Road In the Marketplace 7 ih v4) U.S. Department Assistant Secretary for Conservation 4) of Energy and Solar Applications ats THE WHITE HOUSE WASHINGTON FELLOW AMERICANS: Today, America faces the most serious domestic challenge that it is likely to face in our lifetimes - the energy challenge. Our ability to meet this challenge will help determine whether we will be able to maintain our American way of life during the closing decades of the 20th century. If we ignore the challenge today by failing to act, our children will pay a heavy price for our short sightedness. The challenge is that domestic demand for energy keeps rising faster than domestic supply. Any program that seeks to deal with that imbalance must begin restraining this runaway growth in energy demand. We have a National Energy Plan to help meet the challenge. Its cornerstone is conservation, in industry, in trans- portation, in the home. Its success will depend’ on the cooperation, dedication and commitment of the American people. These "Tips for Energy Savers" can be a tool in our fight to curb energy demand. Much of our Nation's finite energy is used inefficiently. The suggestions contained in this booklet help you to curb that waste, and save yourselves money as well. By saving energy we can protect jobs, the environment, and the basic American standard of living, not only for ourselves, but also for our children and grandchildren. We must succeed. Fang Ch ! Tips for Energy Savers In and Around the Home On the Road In the Marketplace U.S. Department DOE/CS-0020 of Energy March 1978 Assistant Secretary for Conservation and Solar Applications Washington, D.C. 20545 ey Contents Energy Use in the United States And What We Can Do About It How to Save Energy and $$$ ... At Home Protect Your Home From Outside Heat and Cold Heating and Cooling Hot Water Energy Savers Energy Savers in the Kitchen, Laundry, and Bath Lighting Energy Savers Appliance Energy Savers The Appliance Labeling Program Building or Buying a Home Yard and Workshop Energy Savers On the Road Driving Energy Efficiently Maintaining Your Car Buying a Car Taking Vacations In the Marketplace “Nature never gives anything away. Everything is sold ata price. It is only in the ideals of abstraction that choice comes without consequence.” —Ralph Waldo Emerson 14 20 22 27 29 31 34 36 37 39 4) 42 44 45 re rs Energy Use in the United States And What We Can Do About It How to Save Energy and $$$. . . At Home Americans use more energy per person than any other people in the world. We have only 6 percent of the world's population, but we use about one-third of all the energy consumed on this globe. Our total national energy cost in 1975 amounted to about $170 billion, and each year this costis steadily rising. Where does all this energy go? Our industry takes about 36 percent Our commerce uses about 11 percent for enterprises including stores, offices, schools, and hospitals. Our residences take about 26 percent. And transportation accounts for another 27 percent or so. Most of the energy we use in the United States comes from petroleum (crude oil). Because domestic production falls short of our needs, we have to import almost half of it, ata cost of $45 billion a year (at 1977 rates). Expert estimates of our known and potential domestic reserves vary, but most likely we have a 25 to 30 year domestic supply of oil, if we keep our energy-use growth rate at about 2 percent per year However, if we continue using energy as we have become accustomed lo, we could run out of domestic oil supplies before the year 2007, and we may run out of natural gas even sooner. The severe winter of 1976- 1977 paintully dramatized the natural gas situation with its complex supply and economic problems. The overall energy situation in the United States is not rosy: Energy demand keeps rising; energy prices keep going up; the availability and future costs of supplies remain uncertain What can we do about it? Conserve energy. This will help us extend our supplies and reduce our import burdens until we develop new energy technologies and resources. Without personal hardship, we could easily Cut our energy use by an estimated 30 percent or more—saving energy for our country and money for ourselves. . The energy we use for our homes and automobiles—gas, oil, electricity— draws on all of our energy resources. Cutting back on these uses is the simplest, most effective way to make our resources last longer. And each individual conservation effort, multiplied by millions, can serve as an “energy bank"—a supply that can be used to help balance our energy | accounts We can conserve if we make energy thrift a part of our way of life— adopting commonsense energy habits. This booklet contains some practical advice on how you can help. levee esos riow to Save Energy and $$$. ' AthHome Where does our residential energy go? Most of it, 70 percent, is used to heat and cool our homes.An additional 20 percent goes for heating water, the second-largest home energy user and expense. The remaining 10 percent goes into lighting, cooking, and running small appliances. We can cut our energy use and living costs by making our homes energy efficient, even if we have to spend some money to do it. The money we spend now will be returned through lower utility bills month after month. And then the savings are all ours—as good as a tax-free raise in income. Cautlon: Some older people may require higher indoor temperatures— — above 65°F at all times—to avoid accidental hypothermia, a possibly fatal drop in body temperature. People with circulatory problems or those taking certain types of drugs (e.g., phenothiazines, commonly used to treat anxiety and nausea) may also be vulnerable. In such instances, follow a physician's counsel on both winter and summer thermostat settings in your home. Note: Because energy use and utility costs vary in different parts of the country, money-saving potentials are expressed in percentages and costs in averages. Although utility costs will be reduced for those who follow these conservation measures, utility bills may actually rise because of increased energy prices. Protect Your Home From Outside Heat and Cold seen ny payin recy yal j | About 40 million single-family homes in the United States are not adequately protected from outside weather, acording to Department of Energy estimates. Here are some tips to make sure yours is not one of them. Insulate No mater how you heat or cool your home, you can reduce the load on your heating and cooling equipment by as much as 20 to 30 percent by investing a few hundred dollars in insulation. That's about as much as it would cost you to buy a color television set. But the benefits of insulation—lower utility costs— continue for years. * Find out If your home needs Insulation. Your needs will depend on the climate in which you live and the amount of insulation, if any, you already have. For guidance, consult with a reputable insulation dealer in your community or with your local building inspector or county agent. * Find out about R-values before you buy your insulation materials. Then buy the thickness of insulation that will give you the R-value you should have. iL tb-.Ot oH t-Eb Bs Z4 aAOL oll ok 8t-4 6 oSbe bt Gt Ol atl €e-Y «8 wbt-.OF «Vl-.E8 6 Ol-.”%6 Ot wALul 6 aol weAB uB 9-4 9 Bd wOb om: ) «AQ cou Ph] uh «6>..8. uh uA 6h-u weAE wld ao Ad a? elu € md oG uf ub AE ‘eu Jaqyy JOOM Jaq JOOmM Jaq o1sojnyjao 4901 ssej6 yoos ssej6 (uj peinog) I14 85007 . “syo4uelg J0 Sieg ine Saat ueyg sane, “uy zu eeu eeu eeu Shu oe-u elu 92-4 thd 97H 400|4 Buya9 i JO} a pepuswwoosey NO Two Vo eu0z Bupeoy Lia Walieinhe aod I a dew auoZ Buneay Pree nary e405) § od oe R-values or numbers are insulation efficiency ratings. The “R" stands for resistance to winter heat loss or summer heat gain. The higher the R-number, the more effective the insulating capability. The numbers should appear on packages of all insulation materials: mineral, glass fiber, or rock wool batts or blankets; foam or loose fill ma- terials that are poured or blown into insulation spaces; or rigid board insulation. If the insulation you buy doesn't ~ have the R-value written on the package, ask the salesperson to write the R-value on your receipt for future references. 5 Sources for R-value information include: Department of Energy; National Bureau of Standards, U.S. Department of Commerce; American Society of Heating, Retrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE); and insula- tion manufacturers. Insulate or Increase the amount of Insulation In your attic floor or top floor ceiling to a minimum of R-26 for these spaces. If you have old insulation in. your attic, you probably won't be able to judge its R-value. But if you have less than 6 inches of old insulation, chances are you need more to bring the insulation level up to the recommended level. (See the heat- ing zone map for guidance.) Investment costs could range from $80 to $600. Heating and cooling savings should range from some- where around 5 percent, If you are adding to present insulation, to as much as 30 percent if you have no Insulation. * Don't Insulate over eave vents or on top of recessed lighting flxtures or other heat-producing equipment on the attic floor. Also, keep insulation atleast 3 inches away from the sides of these types of fixtures. If attic Insulation were added to the 15 miillon single-family homes that need It, we'd save about 8 percent in heating oil consumption each winter. * Consider Insulating exterlor walls. This is an expensive measure that requires the services of a con- | tractor, but it may be worth the cost if you live in a very hot or very cold climate. There should be enough space In the walls to accommodate blown-in insulation that is at least R-11 to R-13 in most construction except masonry. Costs range from 60 cents to 90 cents per square foot. Savings could amount to 16 to 20 percent of utility costs. * Insulate floors over unheated spaces such as Crawl spaces and garages. Costs could range from $200 to $400. Savings could amount to about 8 percent on your heating and cooling costs. Draft-Proof ' Windows and Doors * Test your windows and doors tor alrtightness. Move a lighted candle around the frames and sashes of your windows. If the flame dances around, you need caulking and/or weatherstripping. Try slipping a quarter under the door. If it goes through easily, you need weatherstripping. ¢ Caulk and weatherstrip doors and windows. It's easy to do yourself. Caulking and weatherstripping materials cost about $25 for the average house (12 windows, 2 doors). Savings in annual energy costs could amount to 10 percent or more if every gas-healted home were properly caulked and weather- stripped, we'd save enough natural gas each year to heat about 4 million homes. * Install storm windows. Combination screen and storm windows (triple- track glass combination) are the most convenient and energy effi- cient because they can be opened easily when there is no need to run heating or cooling equipment. They cost about $30 each. Alternatives range from single-pane storm windows (about $10 each), which have to be removed to admit outside air, to clear plastic film (a total of about $10 for the average home), which can be taped tightly to the inside of the window frames. Savings in reduced space heating costs for any of these types of protection Can amount to as much as 15 percent a year. Adding storm doors in very cold or very hot climates could increase these savings. 13 a - Heating and Cooling Heating and cooling our homes account for most of our residential energy costs. Don't waste any of that : precious conditioned air, whether you pay for it yourself or pay your landlord for it. During both heating and coollng seasons... © Close off unoccupled rooms and shut their heat or air-conditioning vents; or turn off room alr-con- ditioners. (This does not apply if you have a heat pump system. Leave it alone; shutting vents could harm a heat pump.) © Use kitchen, bath, and other © ventilating fans sparingly. In just 1 hour these fans can blow away a houseful of warmed or cooled air. Turn them off just as soon as they have done their job. * Keep your flreplace damper closed unless you have a fire going. An open damper In a 48-inch square fireplace can let up to 8 percent of your heat out the chimney. Heating Energy Savers ° Don’t turn the heat on until you have to. On cool evenings use your fire- place instead and add a blanket at night. With heating equipment... ° If you use electric furnace heating, consider a heat pump system. The heat pump uses thermal energy from outside air for both heating and cooling. Costs for these pumps run from about $2,000 for a whole- house unit to about $425 for room size. But they can cut your use of electricity for heating by 30 to 40 percent and also might provide some savings in cooling costs. if you plan to buy a new gas heal- Ing system, ask your gas utility or public service commission about the savings potential of electronic ignition. Ask also about possibilities for retrofitting the system you may already own. Consider the advantages of a clock thermostat for your heating system. The clock thermostat will turn the heat down for you automatically at a regular hour before you retire and turn it up again before you wake. While you can easily turn your thermostat back at night and up again in the morning yourself, the convenience of a clock thermo- stat may be worth the $40 to $90 cost to you. Consider buying a properly sized furnace that Incorporates an auto- matic flue gas damper. This device reduces the loss of heat when the furnace is off. (Contact your gas utility or oil supplier for guidance.) Don't use your flreplace for supple- mental heating when your furnace Is on unless you take one of the measures suggested below to lessen the loss of heated air from the house. The warmth from a fire on the hearth generally doesn't radiate through the house; the heat gain is confined to the room with the fireplace. And when your furnace is on, too, a considerable amount of heated air from the rest of the house flows into the fireplace and goes wastefully up the chimney. Then the temperature in other rooms of the house goes down, and the furnace uses more fuel to raise it to the level controlled by the thermostat. So you use more fuel, rather than less, when the furnace and tireplace are both going. Lessen heat loss If you use your flreplace when the furnace Is on: — Lower the thermostat setting to 50 to 55 degrees. Some warmed air will still be lost, but the furnace won't have to use as much fuel to heat the rest of the house to these temperatures as it would to raise the heat to 65 degrees. (Note: See Caution on page 8.) — Close all doors and warm air ducts entering the room with the flreplace, and open a window near the fireplace about ‘a to 1 Inch. Air needed by the fire will be provided through the open window, and the amount of heated air drawn from the rest of the house will be reduced. — If you have a simple open masonry fireplace, consider Installing a glass front or a glass screen. This will cut down on the loss of warmed air through the flue. a cease v 16 8 cciggaecnnnnecsp one When the heat Is on... Lower your thermostat to 65 de- grees during the day and 55 de- grees at night. You can save about 3 percent on your fuel costs for every degree you reduce the average temperature in your home. in addition, you can save about 1 percent on your heating bills for” every degree you dial down only at night. (Note: See Caution on page 8) Keep windows near your thermo- stat tightly closed, otherwise it will keep your furnace working after the rest of the room has reached a comfortable temperature. Have your oll furnace serviced at least once a year, preferably each summer to take advantage of off- season rates. This simple precau- tion could save you 10 percent in fuel consumption. Clean or replace the filter In your forced-alr heating system each month. 4 Check the duct work for alr leaks about once a year If you have a forced-alr heating system. To do this, feel around the duct joints for escaping air when the fan is on. Relatively small leaks can be repaired simply by covering holes or cracks with duct tape. More stubborn problems may require caulking as well as taping. You could save almost 9 percent in heating fuel costs this way, if the ducts are in an unheated space. onscramnecreree enya mapper mente 'f you have oll heat, have your service man check to see If the firing rate Is correct. Chances are itisn't. A recent survey found that 97 percent of the furnaces checked were over- fired. Don't let cold alr seep Into your home through the attic access door. Check the door to make sure it is well insulated and weatherstripped, otherwise you'll be wasting fuel to heat that cool air. Dust or vacuum radiator surfaces » frequently. Dust and grime impede the flow of heat. And if the radiators need painting, use flat paint, pref- erably black. It radiates heat better than glossy. i Keep draperies and shades open In sunny windows; close them at , night. For comfort In cooler Indoor temperatures, use the best Insula- tlon of all—warm clothing. _ The human body gives off heal, about 390 Btu's per hour for a man, 330 for a woman. Dressing wisely can help you retain natural heat. Wear closely woven fabrics. They add at least a half degree in warmth. For women. Slacks are at least a degree warmer than skirts. For men and women. A tight tong: sleeved sweater equals almost 2 degrees in added warmih; a heavy ae Seager ete a2 long-sleeved sweater adds about 3.7 degrees; and two lightweight sweaters add about 5 degrees in warmth because the air between them serves as insulation to keep in more body heat If every household In the United States lowered Its average heating temperatures 6 degrees over a 24-hour perlod, we would save more than 570,000 barrels of oil per day. Cooling Energy Savers Overcooling is expensive and wastes energy. Don't use of buy more cooling equipment capacity than you actually need. Regarding alr-conditioning equip- ment... ¢ If you need central alr-condition- Ing, select a unit with the lowest sultable capacity and highest efficiency. A larger unit than you need not only costs more to run but probably won't remove enough moisture from the air. Ask your dealer to help you determine how much cooling capacily you need for the space you have to cool and for the climate in which you live. (For further infor- mation, see page 19, Energy Efficiency Ratios.) © Make sure the ducts In your alr- conditioning system are properly Insulated, especially those that pass through the attic or other uncooled spaces. This could save you almost 9 percent in cooling costs. © If you don't need central alr-con- ditloning, consider using Individual window or through-the-wall units in rooms that need cooling trom time to time. Select the lowest capacity and highestefficiency for the rooms you need to cool As a rule, these will cost less to buy and less to operate © Install a whole-house ventilating fan in your attic or in an upstairs window to cool the house when it's cool outside, even if you have central air-conditioning It will pay to use the fan rather than air-conditioning when the outside temperature is below 82 degrees. When windows in the house are open, the fan pulls cool air through the house and exhausts warm air through the attic. . When you use air-conditioning .. . © Set your thermostat at 78 degrees, a reasonably comfortable and energy-efficient indoor tempera- ture The higher the setting and the less difference between indoor and outdoor temperature, the less outdoor hot air will flow into the building. If the 78° F. setting raises your home temperature 6 degrees (from 72° F. to 78° F., for example), you should save between 12 and 47 percent in cooling costs, depending on where you live ie St — v * Don't set your thermostat al a colder setting than normal when you turn your air-conditioner on. It will NOT cool faster. It WILL cool to a lower temperature than you need and use more energy. * Set the fan speed on high except In very humid weather. When it's humid, set the fan speed at low; ! you'll get less cooling, but more t moisture will be removed from the air. * Clean or replace alr-conditloning filters at least once a month. When the filter is dirty, the fan has to run longer to move the same amount of | air, and this takes more electricity. * Turn off your window alr-condi- tioners when you leave a room for several hours. You'll use less energy cooling the room down later than if you had left the unit running. * Consider using a fan with your window air-conditioner to spread j the cooled air farther without greatly increasing your power use. But be sure the air-conditioner is strong enough to help cool the additional space. * Don't place lamps or TV sets near your alr-conditloning thermostat. Heat from these appliances is sensed by the thermostat and could cause the air-conditioner to run longer than necessary With or without air-conditioning . . . * Keep out daytime sun with vertical louvers or awnings on the outside of your windows, or draw draperies, blinds, and shades indoors. 18 e . You can reduce heat gain from the sun by as much as 80 percent this easy way. * Keep lights low or off. Electric lights generate heat and add to the load on your air-conditioner. * Do your cooking and use other heat-generating appilances In the early morning and late evening hours whenever possible. * Open the windows Instead of using your alr-conditioner or electric fan on cooler days and during cooler hours. * Consider turning off the furnace pilot light in summer, but be sure it's reignited before you turn the furnace on again. * Dress for the warmer Indoor tem- peratures. Neat but casual clothes of lightweight open-weave fabrics are most comfortable. A woman will feel cooler in a lightweight skirt instead of slacks. A man will feel cooler in a short- sleeved shirt than in a long-sleeved shirt of the same weight fabric. Without air-conditioning .. . ¢ Be sure to keep windows and out- side doors closed during the hottest hours of the day. * Use window or whole-house ventilating fans to cool the house when It's cool outside (see page 17 tor more information about whole-house fans). ¢ Use vents and exhaust fans to pull heat and moisture from the attic, a kitchen, and laundry directly to the outside. If everyone raised alr-condition- ing temperatures 6 degrees, we'd save the equivalent of 36 billion kilowatt-hours of electri- city used in the Nation in 1 year. Energy-Efficiency Ratios for Air-Conditioners if you're in the market for a room air- conditioner before the new labels are in place, you should be aware of the Energy Efficiency Ratio numbers that were developed for these appliances during an earlier voluntary appliance labeling program. They still may be in use in your community. The Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) isa number that rates the energy etfi- ciency of similar appliances. The higher the EER number, the more efficient the appliance. Example: EER’s for room air-condi- tioners can be as low as 5.4 and as high as 11.5. The 11.5-rated room air- conditioner is more than twice as efficient as the 5.4 unit of the same capacity and uses less than half the electrical energy of the same Capacity. Example: EER's for room air-condi- tioners can be as low as 5.4 and as high as 11.5. The 11.5-rated room air-conditioner is more than twice as efficient as the 5.4 unit of the same capacity and uses less than half the electrical eneray. Hot Water Energy Savers Heating water accounts for about 20 percent of all the energy we use in our homes. Don't waste it. * Repair leaky faucets promptly. One drop a second can waste as much as 60 gallons of hot or cold water in a week. * Do as much household cleaning as possible with cold water. ¢ Insulate your hot water storage tank and piping. Water Heaters Energy-efficient water heaters may cost a little more initially, but reduced operating costs over a period of time can more than make up for the higher outlay. ¢ Buy a water heater with thick Insulation on the shell. While the initial cost may be more than one without this conservation feature, the savings in energy costs over the years will more than repay you. * Add insulation around the water heater you now have If It's Inade- quately Insulated, but be sure notto block off needed air vents. That would create a safety hazard, especially with oil and gas water Are Se RNa EINE gb OL nD eT Ear - NRO eet ae heaters. When in doubt, get profes- sional help, When the water heater is well-insulated, you should save from $8 to $20 a year in energy costs, much more if it’s located in an unheated area of the house. Check the temperature on your water heater. Most water heaters are set for 140° F. or higher, but you may not need water that hot unless you have a dishwasher. A setting of 120 degrees can provide ade- quate hot water for most families. if you reduce the temperature from 140 degrees (medium) to 120 degrees (low), you could save over 18 percent of the energy you use al the higher setting. Even reducing the setting 10 degrees will save you more than 6 percent in water heating energy If you are uncertain about the tank water temperature, draw some water from the heater through the faucet near the bottom and test it with a thermometer. i Energy Savers in the Kitchen, Laui.dry, and Bath 2 rm opeeyr nrnenins scam grenee marr IDER Kitchen Energy Savers Cooking Energy Savers © Use cold water rather than hot to operate your food disposer. This saves the energy needed to heat the water, is recommended for the appliance, and aids in getting rid of grease. Grease solidifies in cold water and can be ground up and washed away. © Install an aerator In your kitchen sink faucet. By reducing the amount of water in the flow, you use less hot water and save the energy that would have been re- quired to heat it. The lower flow pressure is hardly noticeable. ‘© If you need to purchase a gas oven or range, look for one with an automatic (electrenic) Ignition system Instead of pilot lights. You'll save an average of up to 47 percent of your gas use—41 per- cent in the oven and 53 percent on the top burners. e If you have a gas stove, make sure the pilot light Is burning efficiently —with a blue flame. A yellowish flame indicates an adjustment Is needed. ¢ Never boll water In an open pan. Water will come to a boil faster and use less energy in a kettle or covered pan * Keep range-top burners and retlectors clean. They will reflect the heat better, and you will save energy Match the size of pan to the heating element. More heat will get to the pan; less will be lost to surrounding air If you cook with electricity, get in the habit of turning off the burners several minutes before the allotted cooking time. The heating element will stay hot long enough to finish the cooking for you without using more electricity. The same principle applies to ovencooking When using the oven, make the most of the heat from that single source. Cook as many foods as you can at one time. Prepare dishes that can be stored or frozen for later use or make all oven-cooked meals. Watch the clock or use a timer; don't continually open the oven door to check food. Every time you open the door heat escapes and your cooking takes more energy. Use small electric pans or ovens for small meals rather than the kitchen range or oven. They use less energy. Use pressure cookers and micro- wave ovens If you have them. They can save energy by reducing Cook- ing time When cooking with a gas range- top burner, use moderate tlame settings lo conserve gas. When you have 4 choice, use the range-top rather than the oven. Dishwashing Energy Savers The average dishwasher uses 14 gallons of hot water per load. Use it energy efficiently. * Be sure your dishwasher Is full, but not overloaded, when you turn iton ¢ When buying a dishwasher, look tor a model with alr-power and/or overnight dry settings. These fea- tures automaticaly turn off the dishwasher after the rinse cycle. This can save you up to 10 percent of your total dishwashing energy costs. * Let your dishes alr dry. If you don't have an automatic air-dry switch, turn off the control knob , after the final rinse. Prop the door open a little and the dishes will dry faster. * Don't use the “rinse hold" on your machine. It uses 3 to 7 gallons of hot water each time you use it. Scrape dishes before loading them into the dishwasher so you won't have to rinse them. If they need rinsing, use cold water {f every dishwasher user in the country cut out Jusi one load a week, we'd save almost 15 million kilowatt-hours of elec- tricity every day or the equivalent of about 9,000 barrels of oil a day How to Save Electricity Before It Comes to You During late afternoon and early evening hours the load on the Nation's electrical systems usually reaches its peak. To meet the heavy demand, electric utilities often must use back- up generating equipment that is not energy efficient * Try to use energy-intensive appliances such as dishwashers, clothes washers and dryers, and electric ovens in the early morn- ing or late evening hours to help reduce that peakload. If everyone scheduled household chores during offpeak hours, the utilities’ daily fuel use would be reduced, and the Nation's energy would be conserved. Relrigerator/Freezer Energy Savers * Don't keep your refrigerator or freezer too cold. Recommended temperatures: 38 to 40 degrees for the fresh food compartment of the refrigerator; 5 degrees for the freezer section. (If you havea separate freezer for long-term storage, it should be kept at 0°F., however.) * If you're buying a refrigerator, It's energy economical to buy one with a power-saver switch. Most refrig- erators have heating elements in 24 eter er rsa | memes inane reer eT their walls or doorss to prevent “sweating” on the outside. In most climates, the heating element does not need to be working all the time. The power-saver switch turns off the heating element. By using it, you could save about 16 percentin refrigerator energy costs © Consider buying refrigerators and freezers that nave to be defrosted manually. Although they take more effort to detrost, these appliances use less energy than those that defrost automatically. ¢ Regularly defrost manual-delrost refrigerators and freezers. Frost buildup increases the amount of energy needed to keep the engine running. Never allow frost to build up more than one-quarter of an inch. © Make sure your refrigerator door seals are airtight. Test them by closing the door over a piece of paper or a dollar bill so itis halfin and half out of the refrigerator. If you can pull the paper or bill out easily, the latch may need adjust- ment or the seal may need replacing . Laundry Energy Savers You can save considerable amounts of energy in the laundry through conservation of hot water and by using your automatic washers and dryers less often and more efficiently. * Wash clothes In warm or cold water, rinse In cold. You'll save op fee te Pr energy and money. Use hot water only if absolutely necessary. Washing Machines © Fill washers (unless they have small-load attachments or variable water levels), but do not overload them ¢ Use the suds saver If you have one. It will allow you to use one tubful of hot water for several loads * Don't use too much detergent. Follow the instructions on the box. Oversudsing makes your machine work harder and use more energy. * Pre-soak or use a soak cycle when washing heavily solled garments. You'll avoid two washings and save energy Clothes Dryers © Fill clothes dryers but do not over- Joad them. * Keep the lint screen In the dryer clean. Remove lint after each load Lint impedes the flow of air in the dryer and requires the machine to use more energy. * Keep the outside exhaust of your clothes dryer clean. Check it regularly. A clogged exhaust lengthens the drying time and in- creases the amount of energy used ¢ If your dryer has an automatic dry cycle, use it. Overdrying merely wastes energy. *° Dry your clothes In consecutive loads. Stop-and-start drying uses more energy because a lot goes into warming the dryer up to the desired lemperature each time you begin. © Separate drying loads Into heavy and lightweight items. Since the lighter ones take less drying time, the dryer doesn’t have to be on as long tor these loads. © Hf drying the family wash takes more than one load, leave small, lightweight Items until last. You may be able to dry them, after you turn off the power, with heat re- tained by the machine from earlier loads. * Save energy by using the old- fashloned clothesline. As a bonus, clothes dried Outdoors often seem fresher and cleaner than those taken from a mechanical dryer. Ironing * Remove clothes that will need froning from the dryer while they still are damp. There's no point in wasting energy to dry them thor- oughly if they only have to be dampened again 25 * You can save Ironing time and energy by “pressing” sheets and pillow cases on the warm top of your dryer. Fold them carefully, then smooth them out on the flat surface. * Save energy needed for Ironing by hanging clothes in the bathroom while you're bathing or showering. The steam often removes the wrinkles for you Bathroom Energy Savers * Take showers rather than tub baths, but limit your showering time and check the water flow if you want to save energy. It takes about 30 gallons of water to fill the average tub. A shower with a flow of 4 gallons of water a minute uses only 20 gallons in 5 minutes. Assuming you use half hot and half cold water for bathing, you would save about 5 gallons of hot water every time you substitute a shower for a bath. Thus, if you substituted just one shower for one one bath per day, you would save almost 2,000 gallons of hot water in a year. © Consider Installing a flow restrictor in the plpe at the showerhead. These inexpensive, easy-to-install devices restrict the flow of water to an adequate 3 to 4 gallons per minute. This can save considerable amounts of hot water and the energy used to produce them over a year's time. For example, reduc- ing the flow from 8 to 3 gallons a minute would save the average family about $24 a year. ~~ -- Lighting Energy Savers It's easy to use more light than you need. More than 16 percent of the electricity we use in our homes goes into light- ing. Most Americans overlight their homes, so lowering lighting levels is an easy Conservation measure Indoor Lighting * Turn off lights in any room not belng used. « Light-zone your home and save electricity. Concentrate lighting in reading and working areas and where it’s needed for safety (stair- wells, for example). Reduce lighting in other areas, but avoid very sharp contrasts * To reduce overall lighting In non- working spaces, remove one bulb out of three in multiple light fixtures and replace it with a burned-out bulb for safety. Replace other bulbs {throughout the house with bulbs of the next lower wattage. * Consider installing solid state dimmers or hi-low switches when replacing light switches. They make it easy to reduce lighting intensity in a room and thus save energy. © Use one large buib instead of several smal! ones In areas where bright light is needed. ¢ Use long-life incandescent lamps only in hard-to-reach places. They are less energy efficient than ordinary bulbs. ¢ Need new lamps? Consider the advantages of those with three-way switches. They make it easy to keep lighting levels low when intense 27 oo light is not necessary, and that saves electricity. Use the high switch only for reading or other activities that require brighter light. * Always turn three-way bulbs down to the lowest lighting level when watching television. You'll reduce the glare and use less energy. * Use low-wattage night-light bulbs. These now come in 4-watt as weil as 7-watt sizes. The 4-watt bulb with a clear finish is almost as bright as the 7-watt bulb but uses about half as much energy. © Try 50-watt reflector floodlights In directional lamps (such as pole or spot lamps). These flood lights pro- vide about the same amount of light as the standard 100-watt bulbs but at half the wattage. © Try 25-watt reflector flood bulbs in high-intensity portable lamps. They provide aboul the same amount of light but use less energy than the 40-watt bulbs that normally come with these lamps. ¢ Use fluorescent lights whenever you can; they give out more lumens per watt. For example, a 40- watt fluorescent lamp gives off 80 jumens per watt and a 60-watt in- candescent gives off only 14.7 lumens per watt. The 40-watt fluorescent lamp would save about 140 watts of electricity over a 7-hour period. These savings, over a period of time, could more than pay for the fixtures you would need to use fluorescent lighting. 28 meer eran Hee ee ey pee meme er apm mI * Consider fluorescent lighting for the kitchen sink and countertop areas. These lights set under kitchen cabinets or over counter- tops are pleasant and energy efficient. * Fluorescent lighting also is effec- tive for makeup and grooming areas. Use 20-watt deluxe warin white lamps for these areas. ¢ Keep all lamps and lighting fixtures clean, Dirt absorbs light. * You can save on lighting energy through decorating. Remember, light colors for walls, rugs, drap- eries, and uphclstery reflect light and therefore reduce the amount of artificial light required. Outdoor Lighting * Have decorative outdoor gas lamps turned off, unless they are essential for safety, or convert them to electricity. Keeping just eight gas lamps burning year-round uses as much natural gas as it takes to heat an average-size home fora winter heating season. By turning off one gas lamp, you might save from $40 to $50 a yearin natural gas costs. ¢ Use outdoor lights only when they are needed. One way to make sure they're off during the daylight hours is to put them on a photocell unit or timer that will turn them off automatically. tte Appliance Energy Savers About 8 percent of all the energy used in the United States goes into running electrical home appliances, so appliance use and selection can make a considerable difference in home utility costs. Buying an energy- efficient appliance may cost a bit more initially but that expense is more than made up by reduced operating costs over the lifetime of the appliance. Energy efficiency may vary consider- ably though models seem similar. In the next few years it will be easier to judge the energy efficiency of appli- ances with the Government's appliance labeling program. (See page 31 for details.) In the meantime, wise selection requires a degree of time and effort. You will find a number of tips on how to save energy when buying or using appliances in other sections of this booklet, but here are a few general ideas to consider. * Don'tleave your applilances run- ning when they’re notin use. It’s a total waste of energy. Re- member to turn off your radio, TV, or record player when you leave the room. © Keep appliances in good working order so they will last longer, work more efficiently, and use less energy. * When buying appliances, read labels carefully. Compare energy use information and operating costs of similar models by the same and different manufacturers. The re- a et tt tailer should be able to help you find the wattage of the appliance. With that information, using the cost of electricity in your area, and the list of appliances on pages 32-33, you should be able to figure out how much it will cost you to run the appliance you choose. The list shows the estimated annual energy use of some household appliances. With this information, you should be able to figure your approximate energy use and cost for each item listed. You also should get a good idea of which appliances in your home use the most energy and where energy conservation practices will be the most effective in cutting utility costs * Before buying new appliances with special features, tind out how much energy they use compared with other, perhaps less convenient, models. A frost-free refrigerator, for example, uSes more energy than one you have to defrost man- ually. {t also Costs more to pur- chase. The energy and dollars you can save with a manual-detrost model may be worth giving up the convenience. 30 Yor meng ae met FAIRIES HE EIN NECN oH ¢ Use appliances wisely; use the one that takes the least amount of energy for the job. For example: toasting bread in the oven uses three times more energy than toast- ing it in a toaster * Don't use energy-consuming spe- clal features on your appliances If you have an aliernative. For ex- ample, don't use the “instant-on” feature of your TV set. “Instant-on” sels, especially the tube types, use energy even when the screen is dark. Use the “vacation switch,” if you have one, to eliminate this waste; plug the set into an outlet that is controlled by a wall switch; or have your TV service man install an additional on-off switch on the set itself or in the cord to the wall outlet. Tr er renner a nr ato mn I eR The Appliance Labeling Program This labeling program is designed to help consumers shop for energy- saving household appliances and equipment. It is being developed by the Department of Energy and the Federal Trade Commission as a result of the Energy Policy and Conservation Act, signed into law on December 22, 1975. Under that law, manufacturers must place labels showing estimated an- nual Operating Costs on all models of the following: * Central © Humidifiers air-conditioners and dehumidifiers © Clothes dryers © Kitchen ranges * Clothes washers and ovens * Dishwashers ooo alae © Freezers hee per anor * Furnaces * Room * Home heating air-conditioners equipment, not © Television sets including furnaces piven © Water heaters Appliance testing, labeling, and public information procedures are currently being developed. You should be hearing about the appliance labels, as they become available in 1978 and 1979, through Government informa- tion programs For further information about the appliance labeling program, write Conservation and Solar Applications, U.S. Department of Energy, Appliance Program, Washington, D.C. 20461. —— peace iat ge pale oa casei Sas cle DE ee Tt he cis "Sava meters & Annual Energy Requirements of Electric Household Appliances’ * Source: Edison Electric Institute Est. kWh used annually Major Appliances Air-Conditioner (room) 860 (Based on 1000 hours of operation per year. This figure will vary widely depending on geographic area and specific size of unit) Clothes Dryer 993 Dishwasher 2,100 including energy used to heat water Dishwasher only 363 Freezer (16 cu. ft.) 1,190 Freezer—tfrostless 1,820 (16.5 cu. ft.) Range with oven 700 with self-cleaning oven 730 Refrigerator (12 cu. ft.) 728 Retfrigerator-—trostless teay (12 cu. ft.) Retrigerator/Freezer 1,500 (12.5 cu. ft) Refrigerator/Freezer—frostless 2,250 (17.5 cu. ft.) Washing Machine—automatic 2,500 (including energy used to heat water) washing machine only 103 32 Se re rere omen mere aero me ree Washing Machine-—non- automatic (including energy to heat walter) washing machine only Water Heater Kitchen Appliances Blender Broiler Carving Knife Coifee Maker Deep Fryor Egg Cooker Frying Pan Hot Plate Mixer Oven, Microwave (only) Roaster Sandwich Grill Toaster Trash Compactor Wattle Iron Waste Disposer Est. kWh used annually 2,497 76 4,811 15 100 140 83 14 186 90 13 190 205 33 39 50 30 eivecorte ae Heating and Cooling Air Cleaner Electric Blanket Dehumidifier Fan (attic) Fan (circulating) Fan (rollaway) Fan (window) Heater (portable) Heating Pad Humidifier Laundry fron (hand) Health & Beauly Germicidal Lamp Hair Dryer Heat Lamp (infrared) Shaver Sun Lamp Toothbrush Vibrator Home Entertainment Radio Radio/Record Player Est. kWh used annually 216 147 377 291 43 138 170 176 10 163 144 141 14 13 16 86 109 Est. kWh used annually Television Black & white Tube type 350 Solid state 120 Color Tube type 660 Solid state 440 Housewares Clock 17 Floor Polisher 15 Sewing Machine Wi Vacuum Cleaner 46 Note: When using these figures for pro- Jections, such factors as the size of the specific appliance, the geo- graphic area of use, and individual use should be taken into consider- ation. 33 Building or Buying a Home ee Bbasidl Seeger ee rennet rman NE Te IIA 9m Energy-wasting mistakes can be avoided if you consider climate, local building codes, and energy-efficient construction when you build or buy a home. In either case, the following energy conservation ideas should help you keep down home utility bills. When Buliding a Home... © Consider a square floor plan. It usually is more energy efficient than a rectangular plan. * Insulate walls and roof to the highest specificatlons recom- © mended for your area.* * Insulate floors, too, especially those over craw! spaces, cold basements, and garages.” © ifthe base of a house Is exposed, as in the case of a mobile home, bulid a “skirt” around it. © Install louvered panels or wind- powered roof ventilators rather than motor-driven fans to ventilate the attic. Only use a motor-driven fan if it can be used for whole- house ventilating during cool periods. * Consider solar heat gain when you plan your window locations. !n cool climates, install fewer win- dows in the north wall because there's little solar heat gain there in winter. 1 See Heating Zone Map, page 10 In warm climates, put the largest number of windows in the north and east walls to reduce heating from the sun. * Install windows you can open © so you Can use natural or fan- forced ventilation in moderate weather ¢ Use double-pane glass throughout the house. Windows with double- pane heat-reflecting or heat- absorbing glass provide additional energy savings, especially in south and west exposures. © Place your refrigerator in the cool- est part of the klichen, well away from the range and oven. © install the waler heater as close as possible to areas of major use to minimize heat loss through the pipes; insulate the pipes. © li you live in a warm climate, remember that light-colored root- ing can help keep houses cooler. When Buying a Home... * Consider all the ideas mentloned for buliding a house. © Ask for a description of the Insula- tlon and dala on the efficiency of space heating, alr-conditloning, and water heating plants, or have an independent engineer advise you about the efficiency of the equipment. Ask to see the utility bills from the previous year but remember to adjust them for cur- rent utility rates. Even some new houses don't have insulation in the exterior walls. Be sure to check. Consider the need for additional insulation or replacement of equipment. If improvements are necessary, you may want to seek an adjustment in the purchase price to cover all, or a reasonable share, of the costs. 35 Yard and Workshop Energy Savers Semney pre neem em emsnens-eay eee OTTO NTE Te TMT AES Fm Plant deciduous trees and vines on south and west sides of the home to provide shade in the summer and sunshine in the winter. Do not allow gasoline-powered yard equipment to Idle forlong perlods. Turn off the equipment when you finish one job and restart it when you're ready to resume work. Use hand tools, hand lawn mowers, pruners and clippers whenever possible. Malntaln electrical tools In top operating condillon. They should be clean and properly lubricated. Keep cutting edges sharp. A sharp bit or saw cuts more quickly and therefore uses less power, Oil on bits and saws reduces friction and therefore also reduces power required Buy power tools with the lowest horsepower adequate for the work you want to do. Remember to turn off shop lights, soldering lrons, giuepots, and all bench healing devices rightafter * use. . : 2 50 pa nye amerincen: SPEED!) Liar ay B On the Road 4 5 ( There are more than 100 million registered automobiles in the United States. A typical car, with an average fuel economy of legs than 15 miles per gallon, travels about 10,000 miles each year and uses well over 650 gallons of gasoline. Altogether, our private automobiles consume some 70 billion gallons of gasoline each year. That's about 4.5 million barrels a day. The importance of individual gasoline savings cannot be over- emphasized. If, for example, the fuel used by the average car were reduced just 15 percent through fewer daily trips, better driving practices, and better maintenance, the Nation's use of petroleum would fall by nearly two-thirds of a million barrels per day, or about 3.5 per- cent of demand. We all can improve on Our conser- vation efforts on the road. Here are some of the ways... *® Use public transportation, a motor- cycle, a moped, ora bicycle, or walk to work. e Share your ride. Join a carpool ora vanpool. About one-third of all private automobile mileage is for commuting to and from work. 38 “Sperry mere pear rss nese Rey Ra FEES * Go shopping with a nelghbor occasionally. If the average occu- pancy (currently 1.3 people per commuter car) were increased by just 1 person, each commuter would reduce his Costs, energy consumption, and driving stress. And the nationwide gasoline sav- ings—which would reduce our reliance on more expensive imports --would be more than 600,000 barrels per day. * Eliminate unnecessary trips. Can you find one driving trip per week that could be handled by telephone or combined with another trip? If every automobile took just one less 10-mile trip a week, the Nation would Save 3% billlon gallons of gas a yéar, or nearly 5 percent of the total passenger car demand for gas. If just 1 gallon of gasoilne were saved cach week for every auto- mobile in the country, we'd save about 5.6 billion gallons of gasoline in a year or about 8 percent of the demand created by all our passenger cars fr Jat | / | | ay. Driving Energy Efficiently The driving technique of the person behind the wheel is the most im- portant single elementin determining the fuel economy of any car. A careful driver may get 20 percent more miles per gallon than the aver- age driver and 50 percent more than a wasteful one. ° Observe the 55-mph speed limit on the highway. Most automobiles get about 20 percent more miles per gallon on the highway at 55 mph than they do at 70 mph. * Accelerate smoothly and moder- ately. Achieve your desired speed quickly, and then keep a steady pressure on the accelerator, just enough to maintain speed. ¢ Drive ata steady pace. Avoid stop-and-go traffic. Frequently check the traffic situation well ahead of you. Adjust your driving to avoid unnecessary, wasteful ac- celerations and decelerations. cere nal ste | | | | | Minimize braking. Anticipate speed changes. Take your foot off the accelerator as soon as you see a red light or slowed traffic ahead. Don't let the motor Idle for more than a minute. Turn off the engine. It takes less gasoline to restart the car than il takes to let it idie. Generally there is no need to press the accelerator down to restart the engine. Don't overfill your tank. Remove the nozzle or ask the gas station attendant to remove it when the automatic valve closes. This will eliminate any chance of spillage. Pian your trips carefully. Select routes that will allow you to con- solidate errands and avoid con- gested areas. Use your head before you drive. Plan your trips. Try to use these | tips as you drive. Record your gasoline use, and try to get more miles per gallon out of your car. 40 CDN erm rnnn: e eR ong HORE RENEE NEA 4 Maintaining Your Car Good car maintenance and a wise selection of accessories can mean fuel economy and dollars saved. * Have your car tuned as recom- mended by the manufacturer Regular tune-ups extend engine life and improve performance. A poorly tuned car could use as much as 3 to 9 percent more gasoline than a well-tuned one. The tune-up will pay for itself in gasoline savings and car reliability. *° Keep the engine filters clean. Clogged filters waste gasoline. * Use the gasoline octane and oil grade recommended for your car. If you change the oil yourself, take the used oil to your service station for recycling. *° Check tlre pressures regularly. Underinflated tires increase gas use. You can lose about 2 percent in fuel economy for every pound of pressure under the recommended pounds per-square-inch ¢ Consider radial tlres. They can mean from 3 to 5 percent improve- ment in gas mileage in the city, 7 percent on the highway, and 10 percent at 55 mph after the tires are warmed up for 20 minutes. And they last longer, too. Never mix radials with conventional tires * Remove unnecessary weight from the car. The lighter the car, the less gas it uses. An extra 100 pounds decreases fuel economy about 1 percent for the average car, 1% percent for small cars a Buying a Car Study the Market Before You Buy Ask your dealer, or write to Fuel Economy, Pueblo, Colorado 81009, fora free copy of the latest “EPA/ DOE Gas Mileage Guide.” Study the fuel economy figures and tables that compare specifications. Review mlile- . age test results publicized by Consumers Union and motor industry * magazines. Generally the best fuel economy is associated with low vehicle weight, small engines, manual transmissions, low axle ratio, and low frontal area (the width of the car times its height). * Buy the mos! energy-efficient car of the size and style you want. * Don't let the car price alone deter- mine your choice. Make your deci- sion on the basis of the combination of purchase price and your esti- mated fuel costs. Choose Accesscries Wisely * Purchase only the optional equip- ment and accessories you really need. Items like air-conditioning, automatic transmission, and power steering require Considerable 1 MoS sussa bias “aida wh dh we 42 on cen YEMEN EMRE PEPE SPONS ATM gE GGOME SM AANT UNE NIT EC cuMMe Ee energy, all of which is derived from burning gasoline. Other equipment, such as power brakes, electric motor-driven windows, seats and radio antennas, require less energy for their operation, but all acces- sories add to the vehicle weight and this reduces fuel economy. Don't buy an alr-conditioner unless you really need It. Even when you're not using it, it adds to the weight of the car. Hf you have a car alr-conditioner or other power-draining acces- sories, use them sparingly. The cooling equipment reduces fuel economy from 10 percent on the highway up to almost 20 percent in stop-and-go traffic. Peatiater ain ee 43 opens Taking Vacations Vacation at home this year. Discover nearby attractions Choose a hotel or campground close to where you live. A nearby hotel or campground often can ' provide as complete and happy a change from routine as one that is hundreds of miles away Plan to stay in one place if you vacation away from home, “Hop- ping around” takes transportation energy. Take a train or a bus Instead of the family car. Save gasoline and relax. Rediscover the pleasures of walk- Ing, hiking, and bicycling during your vacation. They're the most energy-conserving means of trans- portation and the healthiest for most people. Save energy at home If you're going away. Remember to turn off lights, lower heating temperatures in winter, and turn off air-condition- ing in summer. in the Marketplace TOS etree Mee ere ne ARRON ETE ye in ihe Viarketplace ¢ Try to buy products that will last. More durable products save the energy that would be required to make replacements more often. * Buy equipment on the basis of Initial cost pius operating costs rather than on the basis of pur- chase price alone. Often products that are energy efficient cost more * to buy. But over the lifetime of the equipment, you will more than make up the difference in lower operating costs. * Buy products made of recycled materlals or those that can be re- cycled —steel, aluminum, paper, and glass among others. More energy is used in the production of products from virgin materials than from recycled or reclaimed materials. For example, producing steel fromm scrap requires Only one- quarter of the energy It would take when using virgin ores. Making a product from recycied aluminum requires less than 10 percent of the energy that would be needed for the same product made from the ore * When you buy fabrics or garments, try lo choose those thal can be washed In cold water and/or re- quire little or no ironing. ¢ When shopping for an unusual liem, telephone ahead to see If the store has It. If it doesn't, you save the energy and time of traveling there and being disappointed. 46 Give gifts with year-round benefits. If you have appliances on your gift list, select long-lasting modeis that use the least amount of energy. Don't buy motorized equipment or, gadgets when hand-operated ver- sions will do. Buy the household equipment that’s right for you. Purchasing the right equipment for your home and needs, using it wisely, and taking good care of it can reduce energy costs considerably. Bigger Isn't necessarily betler. Don't buy a larger or more powerful piece of equipment than you need. Whether it's a furnace, air- conditioner, or water heater, make sure its size and power are right for your home. Ask your dealer, a trade association, or a consumer-interest group for assistance in judging {his factor. Comparison shop when buying appliances. Compare energy use information and operating costs of similar models by the same company and by different manu- facturers | | GOV PNTAH To PHI Win a = Bar an ae